3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Front drive shaft

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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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Front drive shaft

Should the front drive shaft on an 05 dually 4x4 turn free when it is in 2 wheel drive and in neutral? I got under my truck the other day and noticed the front drive shaft does not turn free. I was thinking the one in my 01 3/4 ton did. I can deffinately tell when it is in 4 wheel drive, just curious about the drive shaft.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 04:38 PM
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Thanks to the brainiacs at Dodge they decided to stay with the "No locking hub" deal and leave the fuel guzzling, parts wearing full time running gear! Dynatrac and some others make hub conversions but, they are a bit pricey! Around $1400 give or take! Good luck!
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dbossdiesel
Thanks to the brainiacs at Dodge they decided to stay with the "No locking hub" deal and leave the fuel guzzling, parts wearing full time running gear! Dynatrac and some others make hub conversions but, they are a bit pricey! Around $1400 give or take! Good luck!
Dynatrack and Solid are more like $1900.00.
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Old Jun 10, 2008 | 11:22 PM
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No, the shaft does not turn freely. The transfer case turns freely when it is in two wheel drive. The front end and drive shaft stay connected and turn together.
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by OOPS
Dynatrack and Solid are more like $1900.00.
Hence the give or take! LMAO!!!! Give or take a few hundred! I'm always keeping my eye out for a mid 90's F-350 front end! It'll be worth the swap!
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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People can hate on the 4x4 system all they want but in reality it is a very simple and reliable system. Can't make everyone happy though.
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PourinDiesel
People can hate on the 4x4 system all they want but in reality it is a very simple and reliable system. Can't make everyone happy though.
Not to start a whole big ta-do but, You are un-nessisarly wearing U joints bearings and seals plus pushing all that decrases you MPG's! If you're not useing it, Why have it going? Just my $.02
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Old Jun 11, 2008 | 10:05 PM
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my front d-shaft double joint thing broke one day driving, just driving, took me 3 hours to remove the d-shaft on the side of the road since dodge had the great idea to use allen wrenches at the pinion and i only had the ones that are all sizes in 1 little tool, was a pita, anyways, is seems like i've been getting better mpg.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ozpall
my front d-shaft double joint thing broke one day driving, just driving, took me 3 hours to remove the d-shaft on the side of the road since dodge had the great idea to use allen wrenches at the pinion and i only had the ones that are all sizes in 1 little tool, was a pita, anyways, is seems like i've been getting better mpg.
Yes I know how you feel! I had to remove mine to replace the U joints and ....man What retard figured allen head bolts would be ok? ****!!! And also use super strength loc-tite! LMAO!!!! The front ends are less to be desired in my opinion!
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dbossdiesel
Yes I know how you feel! I had to remove mine to replace the U joints and ....man What retard figured allen head bolts would be ok? ****!!! And also use super strength loc-tite! LMAO!!!! The front ends are less to be desired in my opinion!
Uhh, they're actually torx bolts.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 01:03 AM
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You could always go Chevy and snap CV joints or diff housings or even Ford when the axle pivots rust out and the axle falls out when you hit the brakes one day.

I like my Dodge front drivetrain. Its rough, tough and takes a heck of a beating. Just take your front driveshaft out when 4wd is not needed to save fuel. I mean you got a 4WD for maximum traction and a solid front end is the only thing beefy enough to handle a Cummins. There is plenty enough of a aftermarket for the front end so if you dont like it, change it. I like my front end that can pull a sled or run 12sec 1/4's with 550HP and not worry about it blowing apart.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PourinDiesel
Uhh, they're actually torx bolts.
not mine!!!
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by matego
You could always go Chevy and snap CV joints or diff housings or even Ford when the axle pivots rust out and the axle falls out when you hit the brakes one day.

I like my Dodge front drivetrain. Its rough, tough and takes a heck of a beating. Just take your front driveshaft out when 4wd is not needed to save fuel. I mean you got a 4WD for maximum traction and a solid front end is the only thing beefy enough to handle a Cummins. There is plenty enough of a aftermarket for the front end so if you dont like it, change it. I like my front end that can pull a sled or run 12sec 1/4's with 550HP and not worry about it blowing apart.
Enough Said!!!!!!!!!
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by matego
You could always go Chevy and snap CV joints or diff housings or even Ford when the axle pivots rust out and the axle falls out when you hit the brakes one day.

I like my Dodge front drivetrain. Its rough, tough and takes a heck of a beating. Just take your front driveshaft out when 4wd is not needed to save fuel. I mean you got a 4WD for maximum traction and a solid front end is the only thing beefy enough to handle a Cummins. There is plenty enough of a aftermarket for the front end so if you dont like it, change it. I like my front end that can pull a sled or run 12sec 1/4's with 550HP and not worry about it blowing apart.
Ok, ok! I've owened a 95 F-350 Power-joke for 12 years. it had 170k on it when I traded it! I did U joints and one side of ball joints ONCE! It even had the origonal calipers and pads, never touched them! NEVER had any problems with that front end like I have with this one! Why you may ask? Well, it's simple......LOCKING HUBS!!!!!! Nothing moving, nothing wearing!
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Old Jun 14, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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Locking or non locking has nothing to do with ball joints.
My old Ford was a pig on ball joints, like every 3 - 5 years.
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