This is for my '05 3500 SRW 4X4.

After searching and coming up with partial information, I though I would add some more info to the forum for future searchers:

The bell ringing/rattling noise you hear in the front of the motor is most likely to be the fan clutch. It is electronically controlled and has a nose cone that is on a bearing and is stationary with a wire harness built into it. You can confirm there is a problem by checking your codes, and will probably get a code for the cooling fan clutch (I don't have the exact cade # right now, but I had it). My harness is loose internally in the fan clutch and was causing the bell ringing noise. I bought a new fan clutch from Autozone. The part number is : 922510 - Thermal Electronic Reverse Rotation Thread-on Fan Clutch. It comes from a company called CompressorWorks :http://www.compressorworks.com/eCat/ and is the same as OEM. The one I pulled off has the exact same name and part number castings on it. The cost at Autozone was: $278.99. I did not know about CompressorWorks until I opened the box. It may be even cheaper directly through them.

While I had it off I discoverd my other source of noise. The fan clutch support pulley. This is a large pulley with a smooth surface that the belt rides on. This is what the fan clutch screws on to. It was the crunchy/rattle noise I was hearing also.

Also the fan clutch has regular threads. Righty tighty/Lefty loosey. To take it off will require a breaker bar on your wrench. I did not have a "36mm" fan clutch wrench, but used a 12" cresent. You will have to remove at least 2 fan to fan clutch bolts securing bolts (13mm wrench) and 2 pulley to support bearing pulley/bracket bolts (8mm wrench) to fit the cresent in there on the fan cluch 36mm nut. You will also need a stout breaker bar to wedge against the small-ish 8mm bolt heads. I doubt a screw driver will work since it is tight as heck. Use the pass side fan shroud bracket as a brace for the breaker bar, because you will need both hands on the wrench. I have found it was easier to remove the upper radiator hose from the T-stat housing and move it over to the side to gain better access. Don't forget to drain your cooling system some! You will cuss alot and probably bust a knuckle. So wear some gloves!

Once it is loose (approxamately an hour later of throwing a fit, then having to find your tools you threw out into the pasture) then remove the upper shroud supports. It makes life easier to remove the shroud and fan all together. When I put it back together I will put antisieze on the threads and tighten it down good without a breaker bar. You see, the rotation of the fan will tighten the fan clutch itself on the pulley to require breakerbar status next time it comes off.

I am researching the the fan support pulley/bearing to see the best route to replace it. Most part houses do not know what I am talking about and want to sell me a tensioner. From previous posts, it sounds like the dealer is too expensive, so I will check into the bearing replacement route found on another post. I will update as I get further.

BTW, since I am this far into the job, I have decided to R&R the waterpump as well since it is easy to get to. WP are about $50, worth it to me since the truck has 180,000 miles on it.

 

Well since everything else is disasembled off the front of the engine and out of the way, it was cake to remove the fan support bracket assembly, even though out side temps are below freezing with a pretty good wind.

I removed both pulleys (use an impact on the bolts), it makes life much easier than trying to hold a bracket with turning pulleys and trying to get the bolt off with a box wrench.

I then took a 24MM deep socket and a soft mallet while using a vice carefully, I was able to whack the "hub" assembly (that the fan clutch attaches to) out of the bearing. Since I dont have a regular stand up press, I was able to use my balljoint press to then remove the fan carrier bearing out of the bracket assembly.

The couple autoparts stores that are open on Sunday, could not match my bearing # which is: NSK BD35-12DUSA. I'll try NAPA tomarrow. Right now it's off to a friends Superbowl party!

 

No auto parts stores could match the bearing number. So I tried a couple bearing houses in New Mexico. The first two could not help me, but the third one was spot on!

I gave them the number on the bearing and they called their supplier. The number has changed a little bit (even though the bearing I got from them is the exact same one).

The "official" OEM bearing part number is: BD35-12AT12DDU8 It is a NSK brand bearing. This is right off of the new bearings box and invoice. Get this, Chrysler wants over $200+ for this bearing. I picked it up for $32!! They even dropped shipped to me since I am in Colorado! Not sure what the shipping cost is yet.

I currently have the new bearing in the freezer and the bracket assembly baking @ 450 degrees in the oven. We'll see how easy it is to pop in in an hour or so.

 

Good info, thanks!

 

i had to replace the same bearing on mine. 2 fan clutches later.

 

Wanted to update that when I went to install the bearing, it almost fell right to the floor through the bracket! LOL, that expansion and contraction thing really works well! To recap: Bracket in the oven @ 450 deg for an hour or so & bearing in freezer overnight along with fan hub.

So I got the bearing where I wanted it and let it sit for a few seconds and the bracket shrunk around it nicely. I then took the fan hub which I had in the freezer also and installed it. I set the entire assembly outside to let it cool.

Reassemble everything, almost stripped out the new fan clutch to fan hub thanks to it's fine threads and trying to hold the fan and turn the nut. You can turn the entire assembly, but you have to remember their is a long wire harness that is coming off of it that you have to fanagle so the fan blades don't cut it. Those dang plastic blades are SHARP!

I also replaced the idler bearing right above it with a bearing I had in a different pulley that I have laying around.