Engine removal
New to this forum and recently became first time diesel owner. Been all through this site looking for an appearantly obvious answer. Let me back up a hair and tell you why Im lost.
Bought a 99 with 220K miles for a decent price. Figured out that it was getting 9MPG and mysteriously using 1.5 gallons of water per 100 miles. Traded for an 04 crew cab long bed with a 5 speed an 120K miles. The 04 had what I would consider excessive blow by. Kept an eye on the oil level daily and was just fine. Changed oil and filter, had around 3500 miles on the oil change. Took the old lady to work one day and stopped at corner store to run in and left it running. Came back out and she said a red light came on and a bell was ringing and then it all quit. Truck was still running fine, but I shut it off and re-started--no problems, lights or bells. Oil pressure was fine as well as temp. Got 5 miles down the highway and heard what sounded like a rocker arm rattling, then the noise got deeper. Oil press fine through all this. Stopped, checked oil and it was 2 GALLONS low. Appearantly the blow-by situation had become an instant oil consumption thing and it roasted the crank.
I have a replacement pull-out engine sitting there waiting to go in. Got everything unhooked on the truck. Know I have to find a special tool for the fuel line and if my deadbeat Snap on dud surfaces, Ill have that whipped. Heres the question: How the hell do you get the engine lifted up far enough for the mounts to clear the saddles to pull it out? Is there some kind of secret trick tool to attach to the lift brackets, or what. Man, I get past that and I think its all downhill from there.
Guess its like drywall, carpentry and sailing--its easy if you know the 'tricks'. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Excellent site with tons of info. Learnig something with every click. Thanks.
Bought a 99 with 220K miles for a decent price. Figured out that it was getting 9MPG and mysteriously using 1.5 gallons of water per 100 miles. Traded for an 04 crew cab long bed with a 5 speed an 120K miles. The 04 had what I would consider excessive blow by. Kept an eye on the oil level daily and was just fine. Changed oil and filter, had around 3500 miles on the oil change. Took the old lady to work one day and stopped at corner store to run in and left it running. Came back out and she said a red light came on and a bell was ringing and then it all quit. Truck was still running fine, but I shut it off and re-started--no problems, lights or bells. Oil pressure was fine as well as temp. Got 5 miles down the highway and heard what sounded like a rocker arm rattling, then the noise got deeper. Oil press fine through all this. Stopped, checked oil and it was 2 GALLONS low. Appearantly the blow-by situation had become an instant oil consumption thing and it roasted the crank.
I have a replacement pull-out engine sitting there waiting to go in. Got everything unhooked on the truck. Know I have to find a special tool for the fuel line and if my deadbeat Snap on dud surfaces, Ill have that whipped. Heres the question: How the hell do you get the engine lifted up far enough for the mounts to clear the saddles to pull it out? Is there some kind of secret trick tool to attach to the lift brackets, or what. Man, I get past that and I think its all downhill from there.
Guess its like drywall, carpentry and sailing--its easy if you know the 'tricks'. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Excellent site with tons of info. Learnig something with every click. Thanks.
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,082
Likes: 9
From: Live Oak Texas
Hate to hear the bad luck but I am also sorry I have no answer for ya. I do however have a possible suggestion, and that is to use an engine tilter. Those have save me lots of headaches. Also make sure to remove the hood completely if you have not done that yet.
No, havent taken that much off. Thought the cross bar in front of the radiator that holds the lower radiator mounts should come off but didnt see how that would happen without cutting it into pieces. Kind of wondered why the bumper looked too easy to remove. Will try that.
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 65
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
I usually take the motor mounts off block, Cummins really likes to tighten these bolts, you better have a strong air gun.
You can also pull the cab off then you'll have plenty of room.
That's if you have truck on a lift. Have taken cab off on gas trucks late models to replace engine. Takes about hour more, brake line, park brake cable, wiring harness and ground wire, steering shaft, cab bolts, shift cable. Darn diesels run forever, I have only replaced two diesel engines under warranty. Pays twelve hours,
really making it rich in this business.
You can also pull the cab off then you'll have plenty of room.
That's if you have truck on a lift. Have taken cab off on gas trucks late models to replace engine. Takes about hour more, brake line, park brake cable, wiring harness and ground wire, steering shaft, cab bolts, shift cable. Darn diesels run forever, I have only replaced two diesel engines under warranty. Pays twelve hours,
really making it rich in this business.
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Hey thanks for the input. Got the engine switched out in fairly reasonable amount of time. Of course it wont start now, and have no diesel diagnostic tools to figure out why. Cant look down the carb to see if its getting fuel or check for spark or timing. Knew I should have never gotten rid of my V-10. Might as well be working on a submarine. Guess a guy shouldnt have a piece of equipment that he has no way of diagnosing.
Mine is a 6 speed, and the replacement is an automatic. Changed the computer and entire harness. Only thing I can figure is that there is still air in the back 2 injectors. About every 7th attempt to start, it acts like its going to fire immediatly, then continues on sounding like there is no compression.
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