https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n-t262131.html

 

Its very true, you can have 60psi in the head and 15psi in the radiator.. I know guys who have put pressure gauges on the head ports and seen 60psi, if it was 60psi in the rad the cap would have blown. And its very believable, Pressure is a function of flow and restriction. Look at the small opening in the thermostat compared to the large diameter of the upper radiator hose, its like letting loose a 100psi 3/4" line into a 2" hose, the flow will stay the same, but the resistance drops.. thus the pressure drops. The increased heat in the back of the block also accounts for increased pressure since the coolant is expanded much more than at the water pump, or even the head by 1/2/thermostat.



Here is also another reason why... Would the filter have saved the bad pump? Maybe made it last longer, but it certainly would have kept all the junk from the bad pump from settling at various places in the block.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t271027.html

 

Thanks for the write up AH64ID. Some ppl can't understand the benefits of a good thing no matter what their "experience" level may be.

Got mine installed yesterday.

 

where did you get the bracket you used and do you have a part number

 

The filter is a WF2077, and the head/mount is a 257715S. Both from Fleetguard.

 

Well Big trucks have been using them for years it's not un common to see them on Semi's heavy equipment, I would guess that the trucking industry knows a little more about the coolant filter issue then some motor rebuilder,they do work and they do help

 

AH64ID,
After having some time to evaluate it, would you say it's worth the trouble to plumb it into the heater line, or is the location in the block sufficient?

 

Yes its worth the extra time.

 

I want to add a coolant filter to my truck for two reasons, one is to filter the coolant. The other reason I have a question about. If I'm thinking correctly, the coolant filter is in a bypass loop and will help with higher temps and higher coolant pressure in the back of the head for keeping #5 and #6 running cooler, right? So in other words i could spend about 60 bucks on a coolant bypass system (coolant filter) instead of 400 bucks for a fancy, shiny one on a truck that will probably never make over stock power.

 

Yes you can and Baldwin offers a filter housning for under 50.00

 

here's Baldwins housing CFB5000 42.00
http://www.adiesel.com/baldwinfilters/CFB5000.html

 

Yes, but, it doesn't flow nearly as much. Most coolant filters are 2GPM max, so it will help but not like a bypass.

There are coolant filters that are higher flow but it seems you pay by the GPM, as they are $$$.

 

So, if you were to have just an unrestricted loop from the head to the return hose on the heater core (no filter), would that be too free-flowing causing warm-up times to increase? It gets kind of cold here in Idaho sometimes in the winter and I like all the heat that I can get out of my vents.

 

It would probably increase the warm-up time a little.

I was able to keep the motor warm when I was in Grace in January during with temps in the -13 to 10* range for the Elk hunt, but that was with the winter front closed and fast idle/exhaust brake use when idling.

 

AH do you know the direction of flow from the heater core and can I back flush thru the heater hoses them selfes