Coolant Filter Install
#1
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Coolant Filter Install
I finally got around to installing the coolant filter I bought at the end of last year. I tried to install it when I did my coolant flush in December, but I couldn’t find a plumbing/mounting option I was happy with, so the filter went back on the shelf.
I finally figured out where to mount it last month when I was installing my Home Depot CAI, the bracket fits perfectly on the bumper bracket behind the fog light, and there is plenty of room for hoses to run.
I had heard in passing that the block offered lower coolant pressure than the head, and that there was a coolant port behind the oil filter. Last week when I was getting my cam installed I confirmed this with Pat at Big Twin Diesel, and he said he had used the ports I was talking about in BB twin setups, and it would indeed flow.
So I had a mounting/plumbing plan that would work, so I waited until I did my oil change today and tackled the install. The first thing I did was drain the coolant. Once that was done I installed the fittings in the block/head.
I used the ½ NPT plug between 5 & 6 in the head, this is where the most pressure and heat exists. I am using 3/8” hose, so the fitting is a ½” MPT x 3/8” barb.
The fitting in the block is the return, it’s a 18 x1.5 o-ring metric fitting. I then put a 3/8” x 3/8 MPT barb into the o-ring fitting.
I then mounted the filter to the truck, and figured out how to run the hoses. Once that was figured out I removed the filter head and got the fittings tight.
Once that was done I got all the hoses routed. I zip tied and put anti-chaff on where appropriate.
This is all you can see when the wheel well liner is installed.
The filter itself is essentially level with the bottom of the bumper, and well above the valance piece.
I have found that the filter gets to about 100-110* (based on feel, and length of time I can hold it), before the thermostat opens, and about 140* after.
This filter should help increase water pump life, and overall cooling system efficiency. I am also expecting it to decrease the pressure in the head by 5 & 6 as well as decrease my coolant temp by a couple degrees when towing.
I finally figured out where to mount it last month when I was installing my Home Depot CAI, the bracket fits perfectly on the bumper bracket behind the fog light, and there is plenty of room for hoses to run.
I had heard in passing that the block offered lower coolant pressure than the head, and that there was a coolant port behind the oil filter. Last week when I was getting my cam installed I confirmed this with Pat at Big Twin Diesel, and he said he had used the ports I was talking about in BB twin setups, and it would indeed flow.
So I had a mounting/plumbing plan that would work, so I waited until I did my oil change today and tackled the install. The first thing I did was drain the coolant. Once that was done I installed the fittings in the block/head.
I used the ½ NPT plug between 5 & 6 in the head, this is where the most pressure and heat exists. I am using 3/8” hose, so the fitting is a ½” MPT x 3/8” barb.
The fitting in the block is the return, it’s a 18 x1.5 o-ring metric fitting. I then put a 3/8” x 3/8 MPT barb into the o-ring fitting.
I then mounted the filter to the truck, and figured out how to run the hoses. Once that was figured out I removed the filter head and got the fittings tight.
Once that was done I got all the hoses routed. I zip tied and put anti-chaff on where appropriate.
This is all you can see when the wheel well liner is installed.
The filter itself is essentially level with the bottom of the bumper, and well above the valance piece.
I have found that the filter gets to about 100-110* (based on feel, and length of time I can hold it), before the thermostat opens, and about 140* after.
This filter should help increase water pump life, and overall cooling system efficiency. I am also expecting it to decrease the pressure in the head by 5 & 6 as well as decrease my coolant temp by a couple degrees when towing.
#3
Registered User
That is something I'm thinking about doing. Did your filter come prefilled with coolant additives? We changed the coolant filters every so often on big engines and never touch the coolant, no need too. The filter change replenish the coolant with additives.
I'm too lazy to change the coolant so I just add coolant additives to keep the acidity down. I keep it in the .1-.2mv range.
MikeyB
I'm too lazy to change the coolant so I just add coolant additives to keep the acidity down. I keep it in the .1-.2mv range.
MikeyB
#5
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Thread Starter
That is something I'm thinking about doing. Did your filter come prefilled with coolant additives? We changed the coolant filters every so often on big engines and never touch the coolant, no need too. The filter change replenish the coolant with additives.
I'm too lazy to change the coolant so I just add coolant additives to keep the acidity down. I keep it in the .1-.2mv range.
MikeyB
I'm too lazy to change the coolant so I just add coolant additives to keep the acidity down. I keep it in the .1-.2mv range.
MikeyB
I built 90% of the kit. I got all the fittings at the local Parker hydraulic store, and the 3/8" heater hose from NAPA. The filter/head/bracket came from Cummins. The filter is a WF2077, and the head/mount is a 257715S.
#6
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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No the filter I have does not use additives. AFIK there are no additives you can add to the HOAT coolant that Dodge uses. You can do a 100% flush and swap to a coolant that uses SCA or other additives, but its very very hard to do a 100% flush on the 5.9 without taking it out of the truck and turning it upside down. When you drain the system 3 gallons stay in the block. Even after 4 water flushes I was still draining red, thats about 18-20 gallons of distilled I flushed thru the system, and it still wasn't a good enough flush to go away from HOAT. HOAT doesn't play well with non-HOAT coolant.
They are 1/4 turn shutoff valves so that when I change the filter I don't drain the block.
I built 90% of the kit. I got all the fittings at the local Parker hydraulic store, and the 3/8" heater hose from NAPA. The filter/head/bracket came from Cummins. The filter is a WF2077, and the head/mount is a 257715S.
They are 1/4 turn shutoff valves so that when I change the filter I don't drain the block.
I built 90% of the kit. I got all the fittings at the local Parker hydraulic store, and the 3/8" heater hose from NAPA. The filter/head/bracket came from Cummins. The filter is a WF2077, and the head/mount is a 257715S.
Thank you great write-up.
#7
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I want to say around $40, but its been awhile. Bought it last fall.
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#8
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That's funny man. No I was just wondering if it is worth getting it with the steel mount or if I can get just the filter head and custom make my own mount. The WF2077 is a 11/16-16 do you know if there is a 1-14 version since I have a few extra heads.
#9
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I don't see a 1-14. Here is the literature I have been looking at.
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...es/LT15108.pdf
#10
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Dang John,
I need you to move down here!!!
So that Cummins mount was made to bolt up right there? Or did you have to make a braket to get it to mount by the light?
I need you to move down here!!!
So that Cummins mount was made to bolt up right there? Or did you have to make a braket to get it to mount by the light?
#11
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#15
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No the filter I have does not use additives. AFIK there are no additives you can add to the HOAT coolant that Dodge uses. You can do a 100% flush and swap to a coolant that uses SCA or other additives, but its very very hard to do a 100% flush on the 5.9 without taking it out of the truck and turning it upside down.
I'm using Zerex coolant additive with good results in both my truck and the Magnum.
MikeyB