At the moment I'm more than 2 hrs away from the nearest dealership and I have a the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) on, I'm pretty sure it's the filler cap as it's been the same the last two times I've had the MIL come on and taken it to the dealer to clear/check, so my question is;

Can you clear the codes in these trucks by doing a captive discharge? (disco the batt's negatives and touch it to the poss post)

I assume if I can clear the code and it doesn't come back right away then I have saved myself 4hrs driving and about the same waiting around the shop to get a tech to check it out.

 

I am assuming you are refering to the CEL (check engine light). You can check codes by turning the key off-on (3) times without starting. I have been good and bad at doing this (have to be real quick). I gave up and bought a reader at a Auto Zone. Usually for me it is a temperature rational and clears out after a few days. I really hated waiting for the light to go out, seemed like forever. The way I understand it is the truck will clear the code after 5-10 starts. I believe it is amazing the truck can see a 20* temperature drop and react to it. My guess is you are fine, I understand if the CEL light is flashing, watch out.

 

Here in Rockford, Illinois it's 5* now. You must be frozen by now up in there by now?

 

The battery method usually works...don't forget however that our trucks have 2 batteries. You must disconnect negative on both batteries and then touch only one negative to the positive. If you forget to disconnect one battery then you are shorting it out and risking possible damage to the electronics systems.

First however find out what code it is...turn the ignition switch on and off roughly 3 or 4 times until the DTC's displays in the odometer section of the dash and leave the key on until the DTC's finish. Write them down. I would be willing to bet they have absolutely nothing to do with your filler cap. Loose filler caps DTC's only apply to gas model trucks not diesel as they pertain to the EVAP system which is responsible for storing gasoline vapours instead of letting them out to atmosphere as hydrocarbon emissions. EVAP systems run a self check periodically by allowing engine vacuum into the system and then monitoring pressure losses to see if the system is sealed or leaking, if it is leaking it sets one of several codes. Our diesel trucks have no EVAP system on them. Diesel doesn't evaporate the same way as gasoline and has fewer hydrocarbon emissions due to evaporation or filling.

So long story short the dealer is feeding you BS if they are saying the DTC's are due to a loose filler cap on you Diesel truck. Check the DTC's yourself and find out what they mean.

 

The temp here is -35 right now... and the codes came up as

P2609
P0513

Does anyone know where I can find a list of codes?

 

Good place to bookmark.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

MikeyB

 

P0513 is something to do with an "incorrect key", and p2609 is an "intake air heater" code. Obviously the one relates to the grid heater and the other to a key issue or a computer communication with the key issue. There is a list on this site under tech facts at the top and there are lots of sites on the internet that list newer codes.

 

Thanx all for the info, just what I was looking for

 

Anyone have a site that list the more current codes. The Tech Section list up 2004 and I have one not listed there.

 

Did you put the wrong key in??
I could not find ANY good info about code P2609????

Mark

 

This is why I love this forum!

I started the truck up tonight and then within a few seconds it died and the flashers blinked and the horn honked. I was thinking it was the out-of-park sensor and turned the key off and back on and it started and ran fine, but the engine light stayed on. We went out to eat and when I got back in the truck, the light never came back on again. I just found this thread and this is what I found...

P2509 ECM/PCM Power Input Signal Intermittent

Maybe just a glitch or a combination of starting the truck and the out-of-park-sensor being activated with the truck not being entirely in park? Dunno, but everything seems to be working fine now.

Thanks guys!