NoSparkplugs

Hi all,

I noticed that my right rear axle seal is leaking and making a mess of my rim, tire and brakes so I'm going to change it here fairly soon. I need to know though, how hard is it changing said seal? Do I need any seal pullers/drivers or is it just pull the brake caliper and rotor and go to work? Does anyone have the part # for NAPA's seal? I don't care to go to the dealership cause they charge an arm and a leg for parts haha.

Thanks guys

06RAM2500

Just did both of mine a couple days ago, wasn't that bad. By the way, NAPA doesn't have the parts, sorry.
Tools list-1/2" breaker bar, torque wrench, ratchet, a 21mm and or 22mm (not sure which one for the bracket that holds the brake pads) and a 9/16 socket w/ 3" extension, 3/8 ratchet, 3" extension, 13mm socket, and a 1/2" socket, drain pan, caliper relaxer, clean plastic containers (small), pry bar, rubber mallet, 6lb sledge, a small piece of wood, seal puller/driver, hyd. jack.
Parts list-two seals, rear cover gasket, and front if you want to change the fluid, 4qts of 75w-90 syn. gear oil, rags-lots & lots, gaskets where the axle bolts to the hub, and maybe new shoes.

06RAM2500

If you have a shop, good. If not can do it outside, just find a good level spot. Block the front wheels and jack the one side that is leaking and remove the wheel. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper and tie it up to prevent from hanging on the hose. Might have to pry it off. Remove the pads and inspect. If you think they need replacing, might as well while you have it apart. Remove the two bolts(metric) that hold the bracket. Once that is done, you can drain the diff., if you haven't already done so. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the axle and pull it out. Now, remove the retaining ring and pull the key stock, then remove the nut, and pull the outer bearing and inspect. If it's pitted or looks like it got hot I'd suggest replacing the bearings, might also want to find signs of metal contamination. Once that is done, remove the hub, it will take a little persuasion. There is an inner bearing under the seal, so be careful. Not sure of the procedure for removing the races if they are damaged. Once you get the seal and inner bearing out, clean the hub w/ brake parts cleaner and wipe clean. Do the same w/ the e-brake, spindle, and surrounding area. Now proceed to installing the inner bearing, but soak it in a little gear oil first. Drive the new seal on and the hub is done. Before you put it on, smear some oil on the spindle, this will help the hub go on easier. Once it's on, put the inner bearing in. When you put the nut back on, don't leave it tight. Go until it's tight the back off until it's finger tight, put the key back in, then the retaining ring. Slide the axle back in and replace the bolts(red lock tight them) and torque them to 40lb/ft. Lock tight the bolts that hold the bracket up and torque to 70lb/ft. Slide the pads back in, relax the caliper and bolt up. Torque them to 15lb/ft. All that should be left is the wheel. Can't recall the torque, but I'm sure you can find it. It's up to you to do the other side, but I would so you don't have to later. Once the other side is done, clean and replace the gasket and gasket. It won't take the entire 4 qts., just go until it's half in. below the fill plug. Good luck!

NoSparkplugs

Thanks man, I guess I head over to the local dealer and pick up the axle seal and hub gaskets sometime this week, might as well get the rear cover gasket too since I never have any luck getting RTV to seal right. Sweet, change the seal and put in synthetic+ limited slip additive.

06RAM2500

If they are the same as my 06-be around $90 for the seals and gasket. And your welcome!

NoSparkplugs

Thanks a ton man, I just copy and pasted this into microsoft word and broke it down step by step, along with adding the tools and parts list. You don't happen to have any pics of the work do you? Just thought maybe I'd get an idea of what I'm going to looking at haha

hknladdr

What did you use to remove the hub retaining nut? I noticed the manual calls for a special dodge tool?

amercier4

Same question as hknladdr. A mechanic friend says you need the special tool or you risk breaking the nut.

pullin hard

if its the same as the dana rears, no speacial tools needed.
if you haven't taken your rear cover off yet, the factory gasket was rubber, re useable.