3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Changed Coolant / Now Overheats!

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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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From: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently Nevada
Changed Coolant / Now Overheats!

Pulled the lower radiator hose and dumped the coolant today. It hasn't been changed since the truck was new (98,500 miles). I also dumped the overflow tank. Refilled with about 2.25 gal of fresh Prestone 50/50 and a bottle of DCA4, and dumped another gallon into the overflow tank.

Went for a drive. Headed up a hill with a nice twisty road near home... slow, twisty. I've driven it many times without issue. This time when I reached the top, I was at 262 deg according to my Ultragauge. Ugh. Fortunately it was downhill most of the rest of the way home and it cooled back off. It did get back up to about 242 just before pulling into the driveway, but I let it idle for a while and it got down to 210 or so before I shut it off.

What do you think? Stuck thermostat? Do these things need to be burped?

Rob
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 05:24 PM
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You have an air pocket.....pull the heater hose coming out of the head to purge it.

Sent from my XT1080 using IB AutoGroup
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 05:28 PM
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Thanks! Okay silly questions... where exactly is that hose, and once I do that, then what? Run the motor?

Rob
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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From: The Gas Patch
Rob,

This is the best thread you will find on the subject:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=coolant+flush
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 06:39 PM
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From: Live Oak Texas
It does sound like an air pocket to me too.

A little late but the coolant you used is not the correct one. These engines require a HOAT coolant like the Zerex G-05
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 08:06 PM
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From: Fulltiming in an RV! Currently Nevada
Thanks guys, got it all worked out.

And no it doesn't require HOAT. Did a lot of searching on that topic.

Rob
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RobG
Thanks guys, got it all worked out.

And no it doesn't require HOAT. Did a lot of searching on that topic.

Rob



Better read your owners manual. Says to put the HOAT type in. Using propylene glycol is not recommended as the vehicle isn't designed to use it.




47
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #8  
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From: Tomball, Texas
BTW, no need for DCA4. That is a requirement for wet sleeved bores. Our engines are 'parent bore'.
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RobG
Thanks guys, got it all worked out.

And no it doesn't require HOAT
. Did a lot of searching on that topic.

Rob
Wrong!! But it's your engine. Damage it if you want.

Originally Posted by 47Dodge
Better read your owners manual. Says to put the HOAT type in. Using propylene glycol is not recommended as the vehicle isn't designed to use it.

47
This ^^^
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 07:24 AM
  #10  
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From: Huntington West Virginia
Very true, this is the best write up on changing coolant....yes you have an air pocket, read the instructions below. I put my coolant in until it ran out of this hose and there were no problems. Engine should be off.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=coolant+flush

I agree with post on HOAT coolant for these engines! My research convinced me it was the only one to use. NAPA is the only place I could find it. I'm sure there are other places.
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Old Feb 21, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #11  
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RobG, just like ^^^^ all the above typed, get some Zerex G-05.
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Old Feb 22, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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From: Bluefield WV
or he could pull one of the pipe plugs on the head that requires a 3/8 drive ratchet to bleed the air out fill it till coolant comes out.
and deffentifly HOAT
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