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Best mod ever: new drive shaft

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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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Best mod ever: new drive shaft

Bought an aluminum drive shaft from Doghouse Diesel ($520) and had it shortened 2 1/8" at a local machine shop ($110). Best $630 mod ever. My takeoff shudder is gone. My truck is smooth again. I wish I could have done this years ago. Name:  photo.jpg
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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Love mine too ! ! Congrats on getting it right and being happy with your choice.


CD
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 07:05 AM
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The machine shop also mentioned to be sure to use 1485 bearings and not the 1480 since they are 1/10,000 too large.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 07:27 AM
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Why did you have to have it machined at a local shop? Doesn't Doghouse make the correct size?
Topper
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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I have the NV5600 6-speed. The new Mopar drive shafts are made for the auto's or the G56 6-speed. The NV5600 is about 2" longer than the G56 hence the need to shorten the shaft.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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I'm no engineer but the one on the left sure looks like it would be a lot more durable. Can't wait to put mine on!!!
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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2 1/8" thats good to know thanks.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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Now you just need to polish it to a high luster
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:38 PM
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I want one of these too. I just haven't convinced myself to spend that money yet....
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kertoncol
I have the NV5600 6-speed. The new Mopar drive shafts are made for the auto's or the G56 6-speed. The NV5600 is about 2" longer than the G56 hence the need to shorten the shaft.
im confused. If you have a nv5600 thats 2" longer than the G56 and autos...wouldnt ya have to lenghen it 2"???


Anyway i have seen these posts here on dtr about being best mod. So since i had 520$ laying around i sent ahead and ordered one just now. He picked up the phone an i figures they where closed.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Thundercloud
Now you just need to polish it to a high luster
My luck I'd be polishing it and knock off one of the weights. The guy at the machine shop said that the aluminum shafts have to be balanced to a lot tighter tolerances than the steel ones.


Dodgezilla: It took me a while to convince myself too. I have 173,000+ miles on the truck and I was sick of the start and stop vibrations. I had the u-joints replaced once and the shop that I took it to didn't align the two-pieces of the shaft the same when they reinstalled it. This caused a vibration on its own. I then played around with lowering the center carrier. Non of that helped and non of it compares to how it feels now. If you need the shortened version of the shaft just make sure you measure your existing one and make the new one match.

You won't regret doing this.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 06:44 PM
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So then beings my truck has 50k miles...I probably won't notice a diffrence after install since carrier bearing is still good. O well.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by txarrowhunter
So then beings my truck has 50k miles...I probably won't notice a diffrence after install since carrier bearing is still good. O well.
When you tow something with your truck does it shudder on takeoff? If so, it might be the shaft. The first week that I had my truck, I towed a 7k trailer a few miles. On the first takeoff I felt a horrible shudder that made me think I was spinning the wheels. As long as I babied it, the shudder was minimal.

The NV5600 is 2" longer than the G56 so it sticks out farther towards the rear-end which is why the shaft has to be shortened.

If you only have 50K miles you are probably good for now...
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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any idea how much of a weight difference there is between the 2 setups?
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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how much lower does the single piece set compared to the two piece?
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