auto trans filter change
auto trans filter change
Well, I'm at 30,000 miles, so I ordered up some Red Line c+ and stopped at Advance to pick up the filter and gasket this morning. The guy said that there were two filters for the trans. One on the inside and one in the cooler return line. Hadn't heard of that before so told him I'd get back to him another day. Autozone doesn't have a listing on the 05 yet. Geno's has the filter but doesn't mention more than one. Anyone have a similar experience?
I have never heard of the second filter before (on the cooler return line).
I changed my tranny fluid and filter at 15k and again at 30k. Added the Double Deep Mag-Hytec pan at 15k. Makes it alot easier to drain the fluid and has a place to add the tranny gauge sensor.
I bought ATF +4 and filter from the dealer. I think the filter was only like $15.00 or so.
I changed my tranny fluid and filter at 15k and again at 30k. Added the Double Deep Mag-Hytec pan at 15k. Makes it alot easier to drain the fluid and has a place to add the tranny gauge sensor.
I bought ATF +4 and filter from the dealer. I think the filter was only like $15.00 or so.
I'm at 30k and would prefer to do the fluid and filter change myself. I've never done this before and would appreciate any tips or advice for doing this as well. Would also like to know number of filters required.
Thank you
Okie
Thank you
Okie
There are two filters and you change them in pairs. The cannister filter is the one going to the trans cooler and is just like changing a oil filter the other is just like a normal trans filter. Be sure you change the gasket on the pancake filter you have to pry the old one out. The only pain in the butt is pulling the pan, removing the silicone gasket and re-installing the pan. If you want to do it all correctly you have to perform a flush to get all the fluid out of the converter and whole system which I think is like 12-14 quarts you will need. If you just drop the pan its like 5.5 to 6 quarts hope this helps.
I changed the filters in my wifes truck 5-45RE trans. last week and it had both filters I am assuming that the 48RE is the same but you know what happens when you assume. Check on it before you do it, the Napa guy that first sold me the filter and I do mean filter was totally wrong. Not only did he give me the wrong filter he had no idea about a second filter.
Does anybody have a pic of this second filter and location? I have never heard of this and I read this board pretty much everyday. I have never seen this on my truck. Are you SURE there is a 2nd filter on the 48RE Tranny?
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The 48re Is Different Than The 545rfe. The 48 Uses The Same Filter As 98 And Up 47re. You Won't Even Have To Replace The Gasket Because It Is Reuseable. Get The Filter And It Will Take 6qts Of Fluid As Long As You Don't Loosen The V/b A Little To Get 1-2 Extra
Qts Out Of The Trans. Make Sure Frt Band Is Adjusted. Tighten To 72in/lbs And Back Off Two Turns, Or Set It 5/16 To 3-8 Of An Inch From The Servo. Piece Of Cake.
Dhawk
Qts Out Of The Trans. Make Sure Frt Band Is Adjusted. Tighten To 72in/lbs And Back Off Two Turns, Or Set It 5/16 To 3-8 Of An Inch From The Servo. Piece Of Cake.
Dhawk
Just get a filter for a 98+ 46/47/48re, they are all the same.
It's not a bad idea to put a secondary filter inline to the cooler and cut out the stock check valve. They are known to clog and will eat the trans very quickly when they do.
Oh and the 727 deep trans pans will fit, but you have to trim about 1/8" off the TCC solenoid bracket. Valve body doesn't need to even come off the trans for this.
It's not a bad idea to put a secondary filter inline to the cooler and cut out the stock check valve. They are known to clog and will eat the trans very quickly when they do.
Oh and the 727 deep trans pans will fit, but you have to trim about 1/8" off the TCC solenoid bracket. Valve body doesn't need to even come off the trans for this.
Before I got my 3500 I had a Hemi. It just wouldn't do the job. I changed the filters on the trans at 30,000. I do not think the 48RE has a oil cooler filter but if it does it will be inside the pan by the valve body. Oh yeah, You are going to make a mess. The best way to take the pan down is to losen up all of the bolts first then start loosening them up on one corner and work your way back to the opposite corner slowly. You want to have a pouring effect on the corner that is dropping down. The only issue is when you get it started be very careful. Sometimes the pan will stick to the gasket and when you try to very carefully pry it down it will drop all at once and splat. Tranny fluid all over the place. Why they do not put drain plugs in is beyond me. If you buy an aftermarket deep pan it will have a drain plug more than likely. Have fun...
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