air compressor
04-22-2011, 05:08 AM
#17
Okay, please bear with me .... long post and lots of answers.
First, make sure your compressor and tank will handle it. Always check your tanks rating, and your compressor as well. Tanks are easy, its just stamped on them. The compressor really needs to be checked out before you do this. Some are rated for a specific PSI, for example some of the Viair are rated for 150 PSI, while others like my Air Zenith OB2 is rated for 200 PSI. There are others that will also give you a max pressure rating and include a max restart pressure rating. For example, you'll have a max of 200 PSI, but only have a max restart of 150 PSI. This means you can't restart the compressor while your air pressure is over 150 PSI or you'll damage it.
For what you want to do, this is what I would recommend:
McMaster-Carr has a tank pressure regulator (if you need the part number, I'll get it for you) that you can use to reduce the pressure coming from the tank. You could run the tank up to say 160 to 175 PSI, but the regulator will only allow what you dial it up for, say 140 PSI. This reduces the strain you put on the internals of the horns but will increase the sounds AND your honk time.
There is a huge difference in compressors and their quality. The better ones like Oasis, Air Zenith, Viair, etc., are made not just for guys like me that want air horns but for folks that want to air up tires (rockcrawlers and service trucks), use lockers, air bags, air suspensions, or anyone that wants or needs the convienence of onboard air (OBA). Most of these you can even get replacement parts for and rebuild them if you need to.
Compressors have 2 major ratings: duty cycle and pressure rating.
The duty cycle is how long a compressor can run in an hour's time before you need to shut it down to cool off, and come in 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, and full or constant duty. 1/4 duty means it can run for 15 minutes continuously before it needs a 45 minute cool down; 1/3 means 20 minutes on, 40 minutes off; etc., etc.. You can do the math for the others.
The pressure rating means how much pressure the compressor can put into a tank. Most of the small compressors, like the ones from AirLift and Firestone for their airbag kits are 1/4 duty and will only make about 110 PSI max. This is because the piston isn't metal, it's a type of plastic/nylon and isn't made for those pressures.
You also need to know that some compressors have a "max restart pressure rating" because the internals on the compressor can handle the slow build up but can't handle pressure that's already been built up. Again, its the quality of the internals of the compressor.
Tanks ....
New tanks are cheap compared to the damage a used tank can cause, and all tanks have a limited lifecycle due to the stress put on them from the amount of air compressed into them. Most places will tell you a tank is good for 5 to 10 years, depending on tank maintenance, drain intervals (draining the tank of water), and what kind of pressures you've run it up to.
When an old tank decides to let go, its basically a bomb going off and it's not pretty. You could hurt alot of people overpressurizing an older tank, or even pressurizing a tank with unknown damage (inside rust) within it's normal rating. Most 5 gallon tanks are under $100 including shipping, and I really don't like to mess around when it comes to being safe.
It depends on the size of the tank you're using.
You could put them in the bed of a truck, on the frame rail, or put a tank and compressor on a tray in place of the spare tire. I've seen multiple tanks, or if they are into train horn competitions (Google "Ken Keane" for more info) there are guys using tanks well over 120 gallons in size and mount them on a trailer.
Again, I'm sorry .... I know its a long read, but I don't mind sharing the info.
-Kris
For what you want to do, this is what I would recommend:
McMaster-Carr has a tank pressure regulator (if you need the part number, I'll get it for you) that you can use to reduce the pressure coming from the tank. You could run the tank up to say 160 to 175 PSI, but the regulator will only allow what you dial it up for, say 140 PSI. This reduces the strain you put on the internals of the horns but will increase the sounds AND your honk time.
I'm using the cheap Harbor Freight pump, seems the same quality as everything else on the market, but for way less money. I found my horn on Craigslist (nice metal one, dual trumpet) and a tank laying around from a friend. I am into my setup about $100 and it works great. A lot cheaper than the kits on the internet.
Compressors have 2 major ratings: duty cycle and pressure rating.
The duty cycle is how long a compressor can run in an hour's time before you need to shut it down to cool off, and come in 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, and full or constant duty. 1/4 duty means it can run for 15 minutes continuously before it needs a 45 minute cool down; 1/3 means 20 minutes on, 40 minutes off; etc., etc.. You can do the math for the others.
The pressure rating means how much pressure the compressor can put into a tank. Most of the small compressors, like the ones from AirLift and Firestone for their airbag kits are 1/4 duty and will only make about 110 PSI max. This is because the piston isn't metal, it's a type of plastic/nylon and isn't made for those pressures.
You also need to know that some compressors have a "max restart pressure rating" because the internals on the compressor can handle the slow build up but can't handle pressure that's already been built up. Again, its the quality of the internals of the compressor.
Tanks ....
New tanks are cheap compared to the damage a used tank can cause, and all tanks have a limited lifecycle due to the stress put on them from the amount of air compressed into them. Most places will tell you a tank is good for 5 to 10 years, depending on tank maintenance, drain intervals (draining the tank of water), and what kind of pressures you've run it up to.
When an old tank decides to let go, its basically a bomb going off and it's not pretty. You could hurt alot of people overpressurizing an older tank, or even pressurizing a tank with unknown damage (inside rust) within it's normal rating. Most 5 gallon tanks are under $100 including shipping, and I really don't like to mess around when it comes to being safe.
It depends on the size of the tank you're using.
You could put them in the bed of a truck, on the frame rail, or put a tank and compressor on a tray in place of the spare tire. I've seen multiple tanks, or if they are into train horn competitions (Google "Ken Keane" for more info) there are guys using tanks well over 120 gallons in size and mount them on a trailer.
Again, I'm sorry .... I know its a long read, but I don't mind sharing the info.
-Kris
04-22-2011, 01:04 PM
#18
Registered User
I'm using the cheap Harbor Freight pump, seems the same quality as everything else on the market, but for way less money. I found my horn on Craigslist (nice metal one, dual trumpet) and a tank laying around from a friend. I am into my setup about $100 and it works great. A lot cheaper than the kits on the internet.
I bought my K3HA completely rebuilt from a Nathan Authorized dealer with a lifetime warranty. That was only $500 so I think I git a heck of a deal.
I shopped the poop out of compressors and fittings. Almost went with an engine driven pump, but seriously, I'm not thinking of blasting the horn every 2 minutes and trying to be an ***, I just want to be able to get attention when I'm loaded heavy and someone pulls right in front of me, and to scare deer off the road (we have a zillion of them here).
I ended up ordering 2 Viair 444's and a 8.5 gallon tank. I got the knock off Graham White valve, the whole air kit cost $610. I'll need some more fittings I'm sure but I think my horn will come in at under $1300 when it's complete.
As for saving some money and buying a discount horn.... If you have ever heard a Nathan K3 or K5 running 150 psi and a full 1/2" air line...... Well the easiest way to hear it would be to stand down by your local railroad crossing and wait for a train. They sound sweet!
04-23-2011, 04:26 AM
#19
Lost,
Those are the ones from Jackson Performance, right? I've heard good things about their horns but their webpage really needs some help.
Are yours the OTR horns, or actual train rebuilds? You know about the 6mm drill hole upgrade as well?
(Finally .... someone else to talk horn **** with, LOL!)
-Kris
Those are the ones from Jackson Performance, right? I've heard good things about their horns but their webpage really needs some help.
Are yours the OTR horns, or actual train rebuilds? You know about the 6mm drill hole upgrade as well?
(Finally .... someone else to talk horn **** with, LOL!)
-Kris
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