Anyone out there do their own tranny adjustments?
I nothice that 1st and 2nd gear was really slipping under load and my transmission guy told me how to adjust the bands and that it needed to be done every 30-35K miles.

If anyone is interested... Here is how.

*Locate the Torkshead adjustment screw on the drivers side on the tranny just above the shifting linkage.
*Loosen the backing bolt (3/4")
*Tighten the Torkshead(T30) with 1/4" drive torque wrench to 72 "INCH" pounds.
*Back the torkshead off 1 and 3/4 turns.
*Retighten backing nut while holding the torkshead steady.
* Make sure that if you had to remove the tension spring for the shifting assembly that you put it back on.

Pretty simple Huh?
WOW what a difference!

Oilguy

 

did you feel any improvement? i have had this saved on my desktop for ahwhile, i dunno where i got it from, but it seems more involved. perhaps someone with more scruples can enlighten me.

"Here it is:

48RE Band Adjustment

The bands are not difficult to adjust. You need to buy a new filter and pan gasket plus about 4 qts. of fluid will drain when you remove the pan. You will need an accurate Inch pound torque wrench, some Torx sockets and other metric sockets

The Front (kickdown) band adj. screw is on the L.H. side of the trans. just above the manual & throttle levers. To adjust loosen the locknut, turn screw a couple turns to make sure threads are clean and that screw turns freely. I can't remember the size of the Torx socket you will need here. Tighten to 72 "#. , Back screw off exactly 1- 3/4 turns. (Bill Kondolay said 2 turns) Hold screw in this position and tighten locknut.

The messy part is next. Remove oil pan so you can get to the adj. screw for the Rear (Low/Reverse) band. Loosen locknut and torque screw to 72"#. Back off 3 turns and tighten locknut. Bands are now adjusted to DC specs. Most Chrysler transmissions are all torqued to 72"# but the 'back off' is different on some others. I checked the 2003 Ram factory Service Manual to make sure I have the correct specs for the 48re.

I would always replace the filter when I removed the pan. Just remove the screws (2 -3) and pull filter off. Replace and tighten screws to 35"#. DO NOT over tighten as you could warp aluminum valve body. Torque on pan bolts is 125"#..
Add the specified ATF+4 (synthetic) fluid. Do not overfill.

where the manual says at least 3 times, unbuckle and buckle exactly 3 times. get in truck buckle up, start truck, unbuckle; buckle up 3 times within 60 secs, ending with being buckled up; turn truck off. I tried with not starting the truck and it would not work. good luck"

like i said, i copied this somewhere, so props to whoever it was that i stole this from....EDIT. now that i actually read what i just copied it seems the difference is the info i had includes adjusting the low/reverse band as well. also it looks as if i have the info to kill your seatbelt buzzer posted. geez...i need to wake up.

 

LOL... I did the seat belt thingy a while ago....
I was told that the Rev adjustment is never really a problem... and the dealer flushed and changed the Tranny filter when I bought the truck 20K ago. The directions are the same and the torks size is T30.

And YES! I felt a huge difference. Tight shifting now.

Oilguy

 

I hate to say it but if you need to adjust your bands in an 04.5, you've got deeper problems in that trans!!! Unless, of course, you have super high miles on it........

 

65K miles and it is a work truck... Goes everywhere with a 5K cargo trailer chasing it...
Mainly in town.
Works better than the F250 PSD that came before it.


Oilguy

 

Well, then it sounds like normal wear and tear for your application.