boughtadodge

I moved th cam plate to max and I noticed that the afc housing bolts are also slotted I set it back where it was but should I have moved it to the front or rear ?

VinDiesel

The TST instructions for changing cam plates suggest you start out with it all the way forward. The position of the housing is the course adjustment and the star wheel is the fine adjustment. You might as well try it, you can always slide it back a little at a time.<br>

boughtadodge

I adjusted the cam plate all the way forward it is the top cover that has the slots in it also which way should it be adjusted

VinDiesel

I was referring to the AFC housing- start all the way forward.<br><br>Just in case you haven't seen the instructions I mentioned:<br>http://www.dieselpage.com/tstpk.htm

boughtadodge

I read that twice and missed that part of it I guess I was to excited with the new truck thanks Matt

VinDiesel

Matt,<br><br>You bet, it is rather intoxicating turning up the power on these engines.

boughtadodge

I slid it forward and it made quite a difference now all I need is a better cam plate I know I should upgrade the tranny first but I will cross that bridge when I get to it right now I want more POWER

98rammer

BAD, here are my power mods:<br><br>silencer ring out, k&amp;n w/heat sheild, gutted cat, Magnaflow 4&quot; muffler, adjusted AFC (no longer gutted), ground plate, disabled wastegate, tc unlock/stock switch, upped line pressures.<br><br>it's basically a stock tranny with the upped line pressures (which helped to keep from slipping the converter lock up clutch, but definately didn't eliminate). stock injectors. the plate is ground totally flat and slid all the way forward. that how i reached the power below. i may also be making some better low end torque since i'm not putting out much smoke at all (smoke doesn't necessarily equal power, but it does look cool 8) ). your 95 wont make as much power as mine, but there's a good base.<br><br>Tom

boughtadodge

Hey 98rammer that is encourageing I posted that I wanted more power and with the comments I got it made me wonder if I bought the right truck I wanted a manuel tranny but I got this one at such a deal I could not pass it up. I know several of the powerstroke trucks that are modified with a stock tranny and it seems to work fine. Is it very difficult to up the line pressure. You also stated that the 95 is not as poweful as your 98 what was done different on the two motors to change the power?

dodgeman01

<br>You ground the plate flat? never heard of that. How does it run. My friend wants more power but not a whole lot. He has a 96 5spd 4x4. I want to know more about grinding the plate<br>Thanks Aaron

98rammer

the '95 auto has the 160 horsepower injection pump (400 ft lbs. tq stock). i have the 180 horsepower injection pump making (420 ft lbs. tq stock). i ran my stock plate forward for a while, but there was a weird fueling curve that cut back too much until it went into 2nd gear. the bottom &quot;bump&quot; on the camplate is for top end fueling (i thought it was low end, but i was told opposite at the last meeting). <br><br>i finally said fine...and i took my plate right out. lots more fueling (and i will be even more noticeable top end fueling whenever i get a gsk over a modified plate). there is a risk of breaking a pin (controversial), but it's unlikely that it will happen. i took the stock plate out and grinded a little at a time to the fueling curve side. grind, cool down, grind, cool down. i ground it all the way flat: which equals a #0 plate. i reinstalled it all the way forward and that was that. i did that so i wouldn't break the pin-- the fueling is almost the same as having no plate (unnoticeable with my mods). the EGTs are very low too (1100* is most, 1200* locked up in OD, WOT).<br><br>as for the auto, it's pretty simple. bill k has a picture on his site that shows the right side of the valve body (looking up from underneath the truck with your head towards the rear of the truck). grind down the end of an allen wrench some (3/8 i think) so it fits inside, and i turned it 3 turns. 1 turn=3 psi. then i turned the light throttle screw about 1 1/2 turns. 1 turn= ~75rpms. i'm happy with it in that under light throttle, it takes high rpms to upshift (not too soon anymore). i should pressure check everything too, but haven't yet. a 24v though should not be done without pressure checking...period (some run high pressures stock, some don't). <br><br>oh yeah, i run around town unlocked, or 3rd locked, and i mostly only use lockup OD above 70mph.<br><br>my 1/4 mile time, same truck with no plate, but '94 with a 3,000 gsk was doing the 1/4 mile a full second faster due to the better top end fueling.<br><br>Tom

98rammer

oh yeah aaron, your friend may just want to slide the plate forward. he has the 215 injection pump and will make around 300hp with no plate/ flat plate. (too much for his clutch?). you can also grind away a little bit from the stock plate along the original curve for a little more power. remember, a little bit goes a long way. the only problem is that it sends the injection pump pressures up a lot, but i'm not too worried about it. <br><br>plus, there are many way to make smoke too ;D

dodgeman01

I dont think his is the 215 pump It has 180 on the side of the engine.<br>

VinDiesel

The 5 speed &quot;should&quot; have the 215hp engine, of course many things are possible...<br>Bottom line- various plate profiles are different to control fuel delivery to match rpms, trans type, injectors, air flow, and that's just the STOCK parameters! There's even more to consider once other mods have been made. That's not to say that you can't grind a successful &quot;home-brew&quot; plate, because you can. You have to decide which is easier- experiment on your own, or buy precut plates and try them.<br><br>I bought a #8 plate that was home-brewed, it was a little rough, so I smoothed it up a little and it worked very nicely.<br>Then I decided I wanted more, so I modified it a bit further. In between a 8 and a 6, I'm calling it a &quot;7&quot;. Worked even better. But then I decided I wanted to go about as hot as I could get away with and still pull heavy loads. So I found a great deal on a #6. It doesn't defuel in the top rpms as much as the 8, or even the &quot;7&quot;.<br><br>Also depending upon the profile of the plate you run, the 3K GSK can make a big difference because it will allow the pump to follow a more aggressive plate cut at higher rpms. It made quite a difference on mine.<br><br>Consider the variation between cuts for autos vs those for the manual trans. I'll post a couple of pics. The flat or &quot;0&quot; plate is likely to be too much either way, especially without improving air flow. [Too much fuel, let alone too much for the clutch.]<br><br>I think the most &quot;bang for the buck&quot; is an appropriate plate with boost elbow or other controller, and the GSK.

VinDiesel

As for top and bottom of the plate, I think the &quot;difference&quot; is semantics. Do you call the top part the upper portion of the profile while the plate is sitting on a table (as in the pics), or when it's in position in the pump?<br><br>When on the table, I'd tend to call the upper portion the &quot;top&quot;. <br><br>But when in the pump, I'd call the lowest portion the &quot;bottom&quot; and that's where the tab starts and works it's way up as rpms increase. That's why Piers adjustment instructions say to make sure the tab contacts the plate at least a little above the bottom.<br><br>Anyway, here's a pic of a #11 plate.