2003 wont stay on
Truck cranked stayed on for about 10 seconds then shut off. So i took off the fca and cleaned it. So when i put it in it stayed on for 15 min it got to running temps but you can hear a clatter noise like running out of fuel the whole time i was just hoping it would clear up. It finally turned off by itself. Turned it on again and gave some throttle sounds like the clatter cleared when i give it throttle but it wont let me go past 2000 rpm it stops dead pedal i can push down all the way but nothing. put i new left pump in and 6 new injectors not even a mile on them. Just had a melten piston and the truck has not ran for 3 months just started to put things together and odered new parts as i went along (new fca ) can it be common rail sensor or relief vavle? Can the cp3 go bad all the sudden like that? Thanks
It sounds like a crossover tube(s) is/are not torqued tight enough or torqued too tightly, crimping the end slightly closed. Either way, fuel will be flowing through the return in the head and out the fuel line at the back of the head to the tank….not into the combustion chamber. The more go pedal you give it, the more fuel gets returned to the tank.
Stranger things have happened, but the Cp3 is not where I would focus my efforts at this point. The Cp3 worked fine when you parked the truck 3 months ago and nothing has happened to it since that would label it suspect. They really can't go bad just sitting there.
Not only does the truck not want to run, but when it does you mentioned it having a weird "clatter." Lots of things can cause a truck not to run, but eliminating things that won't cause a "clatter" at the same time will narrow your focus. Things to look at:
- Proper torque on the injector hold down bolts and/or the crossover tubes (more focus on crossover tubes).
- Your new lift pump is not pumping fuel (severe fuel starvation can cause a no-run condition or clatter and low RPMs)
- Rail pressure sensor on the fuel rail may not be plugged up properly. The plug may not be seated or may have a bent pin, etc. This will make the truck hard to crank and not want to run, but when it does, severe clatter and won't stay running long.
You mentioned that you replaced the injectors with 6 "new" ones. Do you mean brand new, as in no way any of them could be bad?
There are a couple of electrical issues that can cause those symptoms. Did you pull the engine to replace the melted piston? If so, I would spend a few minutes double-checking the cam and crank position sensors to ensure they are plugged up properly and not crossed (plugs were switched). Also check the grounds to the engine block to ensure they were all hooked back up.
My vote goes towards it being an injector installation issue or your new lift pump was DOA.
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Sounds like you need a new FCA now. Hammering sound is the CP3 at max pressure not very good for your injectors and limit valve. Read this TSB, Fuel Control Actuator can be replaced without changing high pressure pump.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=217624
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=217624
Thank yall for answering ive been stressing out. When i first broke down i towed it down to home. It was throwing a lot of white smoke and missing so i thought it was an injector. I check one by one and found 3 bad ones by unplugging them. I sent them to mass diesel and scott said that all 6 were bad not even the core was good. $30000 later i got the industrial injection full body injectors. So i put them in torque everthing and it cranked but still the same thing. So i thought maybe a drop vavle, taking the head i found the piston melted. I went ahead and hot head work done while i was there a couple of new vavles and new liners etc. I did not take the engine out just honed it there and put the new piston in. All grounds are good never touched them. The fca was stuck it would crank but stay on for 10 sec. So i bought a new fca and now it stays on for about 15min with a clatter. I just tried takeing off the common rail sensor cleaning and it and now it will let me go past 2000rpm but my gauge is reading none for rail pressure. I know my gauge is good can it be the common rail sensor gauge. I just tried pluggin the gauge in today to see what kind of pressure. Also everytime a crack a line it has a lot of air, i know it suppose to be a self bleeding system but where am i getting all the air. checked all lines make sure there tight and banjo bolts are in right place. Thanks
I forgot the mention that i tried my buddies raptor 100 pump on mine and did the same thing. i keep primming it so see if i can get rid of the air but iam thinking its the rail pressure sensor. I havent gone back and check the tubes or tie down bolts of the injectors. What do yall think?
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