That's what the dealer said it would cost for an oil change, tranmission change, and front and rear diffs. Went to an fast lube place and they said about the same.

How much can I save doing it myself?

 

Quite a lot. Oil and oil filter-$40-60. Tranny change-$100 to have it flushed professionally or just drop the pan, swap the filter and fill it back up for probably $30-40. Front and rear diffs-$20-30. You could do all of that in a day easily.

 

Never use the dealer for fluid changes. They over charge and they will screw it up. They always have some grease monkey getting paid $3.5 an hour to change fluids in your $35K truck. Not a good idea. They pride themselves in seeing how many drain plugs they can cross thread in a day.

 

Your manual also tells you to have your transmission adjusted at each service.The diffs take 3 quarts in the front and 4 in the rear,make sure it is GL-5 rated and only use the approved fluid in the tranny.

 

I do mine myself. In fact, I looked at how much money I was saving and bought mag hytek diff covers to make it easier from now on out. Get your auto tranny done at a tranny shop, they can adjust it, still cheaper than the dealership AND a tranny mechanic will be doing that work. Make sure you get the correct fluids.

CD

 

This is my first Auto, what is adjusting the bands? I can drop the pan and change the filter, but the manual says to adjust the bands at 15K? Any suggestions?

 

From what I understand auto trannies have bands that have a friction material on them that is part of the way they work. The bands have to be adjusted to have the correct amount of tension to work properly. Others can explain this better.

For prices, I just changed my oil and it cost me roughly $40 for oil and filter. I was at the dealer today ordering a part and they had a sign up for a special on oil changes, Diesels - $104.95 then we get to add 8.8% sales tax to that.

 

Can you adjust the bands yourself, or is it something that you need specialized tools to accomplish?

 

THIS IS FOR THE FRONT BAND.....


The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw (2) is located on the left side of the transmission case above the manual valve and throttle valve levers.


Raise vehicle.
Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then back locknut (1) off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screw threads if necessary.
Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 Nm (72 inch lbs.) torque with an appropriate Torx socket. CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 Nm (47-50 inch lbs.) torque.
Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns, for diesel vehicles, or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten locknut to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
Lower vehicle


THIS IS THE REAR BAND.......


The transmission oil pan must be removed for access to the rear band adjusting screw (1).


Raise vehicle.
Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
Tighten adjusting screw to 8 Nm (72 inch lbs.) torque.
Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.
Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 Nm (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
Lower vehicle and refill transmission with Mopar(R) ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.


Maybe this can be put in the tech section so others can see it in the future??? there is one for the 2nd gens but not 3rd gen.
Mods or Admins??? can this be done??

53

 

If you read a few of the otehr threads on this and other sites it is NOT recomended to adjust the bands. If done improperly iot causes more problems than it might cure. Change the fluids and if you are having shifting problems or other tranny problems have the dealer check it and do whatever thay suggest and let them do it under warranty. As far as fluids , don't flush the tranny, just drop the pan and install a new filter and 4-5 quarts of ATF +4 fluid. Be sure it's +4 and as above the Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic G5 fluid in your differentials and if 4x4 +4 in your transfer case and you are good to go for a while again.

 

any good trans shop would say different.
the bands are there because they do need adjusting, the procedure is in all the service manuals.

if you service your own trans it should be done, if you take it to a trans shop to be serviced they will adjust the bands too.

if you take it jiffy lube they probably wont.


if your under warranty still take it to them for sure

but if it's all on your dime, I would do it myself.

 

Band adjusting is in the service manual because it is a required step during an overhaul. It shouldn't have to be done during routine service.

I was in the transmission business a long time and I haven't heard of adjusting the bands as part of a "service".

 

"Band adjusting is in the service manual because it is a required step during an overhaul. It shouldn't have to be done during routine service."

I don't have an auto, but I think I recall seeing badn adjustment listed in the owner's manual service guide.

 

Most of the bands I've found "extremely loose" have been ones from the factory. I've seen them so bad you could get two fingers stacked between the lever and servo. These are the ones overtime that will finally allow the crossbar to fall down rendering the band inop. I usually recommend dropping the pan and checking the bands at 30k and then run it.

 

my 01 needed a band adjustment every time I changed the fluid 20k-30k

when I checked them they where always a little lose.

I was not going to wait for mine to start slipping like it did the first time, so I checked mine every time I changed the filter.

if you don't do the procedure wrong then there is nothing to worry about.

do what you want but thats how I did mine.