ECM reprogram help needed to disable codes
08-31-2019, 03:35 PM
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ECM reprogram help needed to disable codes
I recently replaced the fan on my '05 with an electric dual fan unit (Flex-a-lite #264) after the wires were sliced by the OEM dodge fan. Works great except I get P0480 (fan control circuit) and P0483 (fan speed) codes and the check engine light remains on - no surprise as I've changed the stock wiring by replacing the OEM fan. I'd like to go into the ECM and remove those codes - essentially telling the ECM that I have a manual fan. Flex-a-lite does not have a solution for this other than to ignore the check engine light...
While I'm at it, I need to reset the threshold for an overboost (0234) code from 35 psi (?) to 50 psi - I'm running twins and can easily hit 42 psi with the stock program - I have a boost fooler but the 0234 code still pops up every now and again when running hard. I also throw a 0243 code - wast gate pressure control - which is weird as I have a manual waste gate not connected to the ECM. Hoping that once I reset the over boost threshold I'll not have the waste gate code.
The dealer won't do it - what tools are needed and how can I dive into the program to make the changes? Has anyone done this on an '05 ?
While I'm at it, I need to reset the threshold for an overboost (0234) code from 35 psi (?) to 50 psi - I'm running twins and can easily hit 42 psi with the stock program - I have a boost fooler but the 0234 code still pops up every now and again when running hard. I also throw a 0243 code - wast gate pressure control - which is weird as I have a manual waste gate not connected to the ECM. Hoping that once I reset the over boost threshold I'll not have the waste gate code.
The dealer won't do it - what tools are needed and how can I dive into the program to make the changes? Has anyone done this on an '05 ?
09-01-2019, 06:27 PM
#2
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I recently replaced the fan on my '05 with an electric dual fan unit (Flex-a-lite #264) after the wires were sliced by the OEM dodge fan. Works great except I get P0480 (fan control circuit) and P0483 (fan speed) codes and the check engine light remains on - no surprise as I've changed the stock wiring by replacing the OEM fan. I'd like to go into the ECM and remove those codes - essentially telling the ECM that I have a manual fan. Flex-a-lite does not have a solution for this other than to ignore the check engine light...
While I'm at it, I need to reset the threshold for an overboost (0234) code from 35 psi (?) to 50 psi - I'm running twins and can easily hit 42 psi with the stock program - I have a boost fooler but the 0234 code still pops up every now and again when running hard. I also throw a 0243 code - wast gate pressure control - which is weird as I have a manual waste gate not connected to the ECM. Hoping that once I reset the over boost threshold I'll not have the waste gate code.
The dealer won't do it - what tools are needed and how can I dive into the program to make the changes? Has anyone done this on an '05 ?
While I'm at it, I need to reset the threshold for an overboost (0234) code from 35 psi (?) to 50 psi - I'm running twins and can easily hit 42 psi with the stock program - I have a boost fooler but the 0234 code still pops up every now and again when running hard. I also throw a 0243 code - wast gate pressure control - which is weird as I have a manual waste gate not connected to the ECM. Hoping that once I reset the over boost threshold I'll not have the waste gate code.
The dealer won't do it - what tools are needed and how can I dive into the program to make the changes? Has anyone done this on an '05 ?
You have lots going on with your truck! Lots of mods to make it a solid towing rig, similar to my truck which tows a 10k lbs 5th wheel around all summer.
1. I'm sorry to say that electric fans will not keep a stock Cummins cool while towing let alone a modified Cummins. Keep all your stock fan parts as you will likely be re-installing them.
Tons of guys have tried this and there is always a set of those electric fan kits on the used parts for sale ads.
2. Running a stock Cummins ECM program with your twin turbo's doesn't make sense. You are not taking advantage of your twins.
As far as I know, EFI Live is still not supported for the 2003-05 Dodge Cummins, only for the 2006+ trucks.
That leaves 2 options that I know of to program and load a custom ECM program on your 2005 ECM. A Smarty Touch or HP Tuners. In both cases you will have to find a programmer to build the
custom ECM program that you want.
09-02-2019, 11:04 AM
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Hmmm... good advice on keeping the stock fan parts, thanks. I'm putting in a higher capacity rad as well so let's see how this plays out. If I wind up reverting back to the old fan and clutch I wouldn't want it to slice the wiring again - I understand there is an improved configuration from Dodge so I'll keep an eye on temps and if the electric fan / new rad combination doesn't do it I'll revert back to the stock fan and clutch. With summer near its end and cooler temps on their way, I'm not expecting to see any overtemp condition anytime soon.
As to Twins - I've recently had the motor rebuilt (05 issue with rings...) and am still breaking in the new motor - I have a Smarty and once safe, I'll enter in a 'moderate' level of enhancements.
I'm not familiar with the way the ECM is programmed, but I'm hoping that I can remove the fan codes "below" the level where the Smarty would be writing its own program. Not sure if that makes sense or not, but the alternative is to find someone to customize the Smarty program. Any ideas on where I can find these guys would be appreciated !
ps. I like your truck configuration
As to Twins - I've recently had the motor rebuilt (05 issue with rings...) and am still breaking in the new motor - I have a Smarty and once safe, I'll enter in a 'moderate' level of enhancements.
I'm not familiar with the way the ECM is programmed, but I'm hoping that I can remove the fan codes "below" the level where the Smarty would be writing its own program. Not sure if that makes sense or not, but the alternative is to find someone to customize the Smarty program. Any ideas on where I can find these guys would be appreciated !
ps. I like your truck configuration
09-02-2019, 12:35 PM
#4
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Ah, you have a Smarty and you are near Calgary...
Unfortunately the standard Smarty programmer, which I also have, will not be able to turn off the fan clutch code.
You will need a more advanced programmer to do that. A Smarty Touch or HP Tuners as mentioned above.
Once you load the Smarty programmer on your ECM, the overboost codes will be disabled but the wastegate code will not.
You will still need a wastegate jumper/fooler. https://www.straptperformance.com/BD...dd-1453240.htm
I have ATS twin turbos on my truck for many years now. Smarty program loaded, 50PSI if desired, no boost fooler and a wastegate fooler installed and no codes or CEL.
What high capacity radiator are you installing?
The only high capacity radiator I have ever seen for the 2003-09 Dodge Cummins trucks was a custom built brass/copper unit by a local shop.
The beautiful and pricey Mishimoto aluminum rad actually has a thinner core than the stock rad. It's too bad as I would love to install a bigger rad in my truck.
Unfortunately the standard Smarty programmer, which I also have, will not be able to turn off the fan clutch code.
You will need a more advanced programmer to do that. A Smarty Touch or HP Tuners as mentioned above.
Once you load the Smarty programmer on your ECM, the overboost codes will be disabled but the wastegate code will not.
You will still need a wastegate jumper/fooler. https://www.straptperformance.com/BD...dd-1453240.htm
I have ATS twin turbos on my truck for many years now. Smarty program loaded, 50PSI if desired, no boost fooler and a wastegate fooler installed and no codes or CEL.
What high capacity radiator are you installing?
The only high capacity radiator I have ever seen for the 2003-09 Dodge Cummins trucks was a custom built brass/copper unit by a local shop.
The beautiful and pricey Mishimoto aluminum rad actually has a thinner core than the stock rad. It's too bad as I would love to install a bigger rad in my truck.
09-02-2019, 01:28 PM
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Ah yes, Smarty Touch - a miss on my part. Thanks. I did a bit of digging on their web site and yes, they support the fan speed RPM (P0483) and boost pressure code (P0234) modifications, but I didn't see that it would take care of the P0480 code - fan control circuit. Since the fan clutch connection and wiring is no longer there, I suspect the 0480 code would still appear - does that logic make sense? After reading your reply, I sent an enquiry to the Smarty folks and I suspect they'll tell me to get the Smart Touch as well, but I'd like to have confirmation that the control circuit code will go away as well as the fan speed code and understand better what software options are needed, how to do it, etc.
I'm also assuming the Smarty Touch flashes the ECM and you can remove the Smarty Touch similar to the older Smarty - I don't want to have to find room to mount another thing in the cab or have dongles and microSD cards hanging off the OBD port You mention you have the standard Smarty - do you have or have you used the Touch as well ? If so I might need to buy you a beer and understand a bit more about this...
I believe I have a wastage fooler - it came with the BD Twins (towing twins) - I think they called it a boost fooler but it looks like the same plug that is essentially a jumper closing off the two wires that led to the stock plug on the original turbo. I'll check if the fooler plug is still inserted correctly but I've had this on for years.
I haven't seen the new rad yet as it's on it's way to the shop I'm dealing with - its an Abarth rad model 112074 from what I'm told. Apparently same size as OEM, but higher efficiency. Long time ago I worked for a radiator manufacturer so I know a couple of things about heat transfer - I'm curious as to what they have done to improve the efficiency. Hopefully this isn't a waste of time and money...
I'm also assuming the Smarty Touch flashes the ECM and you can remove the Smarty Touch similar to the older Smarty - I don't want to have to find room to mount another thing in the cab or have dongles and microSD cards hanging off the OBD port You mention you have the standard Smarty - do you have or have you used the Touch as well ? If so I might need to buy you a beer and understand a bit more about this...
I believe I have a wastage fooler - it came with the BD Twins (towing twins) - I think they called it a boost fooler but it looks like the same plug that is essentially a jumper closing off the two wires that led to the stock plug on the original turbo. I'll check if the fooler plug is still inserted correctly but I've had this on for years.
I haven't seen the new rad yet as it's on it's way to the shop I'm dealing with - its an Abarth rad model 112074 from what I'm told. Apparently same size as OEM, but higher efficiency. Long time ago I worked for a radiator manufacturer so I know a couple of things about heat transfer - I'm curious as to what they have done to improve the efficiency. Hopefully this isn't a waste of time and money...
09-02-2019, 01:54 PM
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...Ben
09-02-2019, 02:12 PM
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I do not have a Smarty Touch but have played with several on different trucks. The Smarty Touch and HP Tuners programmer have been around for years.
If you have stand alone gauges already installed, as I do, the HP Tuners programmer is the logical choice and it's cheaper than the Smarty Touch.
A wastegate fooler and boost fooler are totally different. If you have a wastegate fooler installed, I recommend to load your Smarty on your ECM, level 1 lowest, wastegate option set to disabled.
That should clear several of your codes, except the fan code.
The bigger rad option for our 3rd Gen trucks has been hashed over a million times with no solution. Unless something has changed recently, there is still no solution.
The Mishimoto rad: https://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-ram-...ine-03-10.html
Notice that the core thickness is 1.3", less than the stock rad of 1.5". Plus the goofy unique radiator cap.
This was the 1st Dodge Cummins rad they released but they have never updated it. They likely have sold very few of these rads for a 3rd Gen.
I have contacted Mishimoto several times to ask them to update this radiator.
IMO, this Mishimoto rad would provide zero cooling performance over the stock rad. US$800. CDN$1000+.
If you have stand alone gauges already installed, as I do, the HP Tuners programmer is the logical choice and it's cheaper than the Smarty Touch.
A wastegate fooler and boost fooler are totally different. If you have a wastegate fooler installed, I recommend to load your Smarty on your ECM, level 1 lowest, wastegate option set to disabled.
That should clear several of your codes, except the fan code.
The bigger rad option for our 3rd Gen trucks has been hashed over a million times with no solution. Unless something has changed recently, there is still no solution.
The Mishimoto rad: https://www.mishimoto.com/dodge-ram-...ine-03-10.html
Notice that the core thickness is 1.3", less than the stock rad of 1.5". Plus the goofy unique radiator cap.
This was the 1st Dodge Cummins rad they released but they have never updated it. They likely have sold very few of these rads for a 3rd Gen.
I have contacted Mishimoto several times to ask them to update this radiator.
IMO, this Mishimoto rad would provide zero cooling performance over the stock rad. US$800. CDN$1000+.
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10-02-2019, 10:53 AM
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Thought I'd post again to close off the storyline... here's the summary version:
1. The electric fan seems to be doing its job for now, but I'll keep an eye on it if heading down to warmer climates and towing. I installed a manual override switch (and an indicator light) to turn the fan on if the temps start to rise - I can adjust the trigger point for the fan to turn on automatically but that will now have to wait for warmer weather and towing season.
2. I was able to get the ECM reprogrammed - it was a custom job that removed the codes triggering the engine malfunction light. There is a guy in Red Deer that I went to that did this in about an hour or two - he specializes in programming diesel engines of all sorts. PM me and I can share contact info.
3. I sold the Smarty - unfortunately the Smarty has the OEM program that would override the custom program when I "return to stock". Once my engine is broken in I'll head back up to Red Deer and get the truck dyno'd and tuned up with custom programming to take better advantage of the twins. I'm already pushing 42 psi and no smoke, maintaining 1000 deg EGT's when pushing uphill with the camper on the stock program - I'll only go for a mild reprogram as I don't want to leave crankshafts and driveline components behind me on the pavement...
thanks for all the forum feedback!
1. The electric fan seems to be doing its job for now, but I'll keep an eye on it if heading down to warmer climates and towing. I installed a manual override switch (and an indicator light) to turn the fan on if the temps start to rise - I can adjust the trigger point for the fan to turn on automatically but that will now have to wait for warmer weather and towing season.
2. I was able to get the ECM reprogrammed - it was a custom job that removed the codes triggering the engine malfunction light. There is a guy in Red Deer that I went to that did this in about an hour or two - he specializes in programming diesel engines of all sorts. PM me and I can share contact info.
3. I sold the Smarty - unfortunately the Smarty has the OEM program that would override the custom program when I "return to stock". Once my engine is broken in I'll head back up to Red Deer and get the truck dyno'd and tuned up with custom programming to take better advantage of the twins. I'm already pushing 42 psi and no smoke, maintaining 1000 deg EGT's when pushing uphill with the camper on the stock program - I'll only go for a mild reprogram as I don't want to leave crankshafts and driveline components behind me on the pavement...
thanks for all the forum feedback!
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