I'm trying to decide if I should go with the Edelbrock IAS, Bilstein 5100 (even though I have NO lift) or the Bilstein "oem replacement" 52550 H0/52549 H0.

I've had Rancho 9000's on it since Aug 2001, and they seem to be shot. Recently I've experienced pretty horrible bouncing on the left front a couple of times after hitting a rough spot in the road. All you can do is hang on, steer and use the e-brake to slow it down until it quits bouncing.

We are selling the camper (I hope!), so I won't really need the adjustability of the Rancho's anymore. I'm looking for a good ride & good handling on the HIGHWAY, and *hoping* that some good shocks will also help with the STOOPID rear-wheel ABS that disengages my brakes everytime I hit a bump while trying to stop or slow down .

I can't afford a new truck right now, or extremely expensive options like KORE or Kelderman. I've got to work with what I've got.

FWIW, the shocks are just a part of my attack on these problems. I'll be installing the Energy Suspension urethane sway-bar bushings & end links and their urethane drag-link bushing in the next couple of days. I'm also going to rebuild/re-shim the Luke's link on the drag link.

The next step after the new shocks, will be new tires. The BFG AT/KO's are kind of short on tread, and riding hard too. Since I'm selling the camper & atvs and expect to be almost 100% street use now, I'll probably look at more streetable all-season tires this time.

Opinions? Recommendations?

Please, no flame-wars! Just the facts.

99 quadcab 4x4 lsd auto, Rancho 9000's, AirLift Suspension bags, Roadmaster Active Suspension .... 140,000 miles on the truck. The ATV's are for off-road stuff; the truck just gets me there!

 

I have not run the other, but have the Bilstein 5100's. I love them.

 

I have been running Performer IAS for about 100K miles now - mostly road miles but occasionally gross 20K and they work well. Compared to my old 78 W200 the ride is not bad but then I happen to think a truck should ride like a truck, not a plush butt cushion.

As far as the Performer shocks go I have had to replace 2 under the lifetime warranty - one had the shaft eyelet unscrew and the other blew a shaft seal - it pays to save the receipt when you buy them. I bought mine from Advance Auto and they did not balk at replacing either of them, even after 2+ years.

I have put Bilstein's on several vehicles and they make a very good shocks so I think it comes down to $$$$ (ain't none of them cheap) and personal preference.

 

You might want to check out the messages on 'Death wobble'
I had the same problem on my 96 and the problem ended up being the track bar, apparently not one of Dodge's better ideas!!
I still have a problem with a shaking or bouncing that may be due to shocks or maybe tires out of balance, but not nearly as bad as the shaking when I hit a pot hole or bump in the road. I could go into more detail but do a search on death wobble and you'll learn more than you really wanted to know!!

Tim

 

I've read a lot of stuff about the "death wobble". I did the Lukes Link repair less than 2 years/20,000 miles ago, but I think I got the shim a little on the loose side then.
I plan to re-do that real soon; maybe next week. I've got too much other stuff to do this week & weekend.

On another note - I've noticed a few topics about clunks and noises, mostly related to the steering column. I've heard strange noises over the years that I never resolved, but this week, since the latest death wobble event, I've got a lot more noises.

At first I thought maybe it shook loose some of the bolts & brackets for the fiberglass running boards (they've rattled before, but I tightened them up real good last time), but when I jumped on my creeper and started rolling around under the truck and shaking things, I found that a lot of the plastic screws for the inner fender liners are broke or missing, and the rest are loose.
I discovered that those big ol' plastic fender wells can make more different kinds of noise than a Mocking Bird! There's another project to add to my list.

Meanwhile, I have dropped the tire pressure all around (55/60 instead of 65/80), set the Airlift bags just above minimum (8psi now) and increased setting on all the shock absorbers to #4 (mine only have 5 positions).
It rides softer, but I don't even want to go back the the rough spot in the pavement to "test" it. The tire pressure and shock adjustments are just a band-aid to help me survive until I get the rest sorted out.

Rancho has not replied to my email about warranty on the shocks.
I haven't found the receipt yet, and 4 Wheel Parts and Advance Auto Part both say they will not warranty the shocks without a receipt from THEIR store.
I'm not sure, but I think I remember that I priced them at 4WP in Colorado Springs, but then got a price-match - 10% at Advance Auto (or Western Auto, or whatever their name was in 2001). I hate to have to BUY new shocks when I already bought shocks with a lifetime warranty.

 

I bought lifetime KYB Gas-a-just 5 years ago. Sadly, they are shot. Instead of trying to go through a warranty process I've decided to just upgrade to the Mono-max series.
I'm pretty happy with many applications of KYB shocks & struts.

 

Decided to see if the lifetime warranty was any good. KYB told me it was up to the retailer to work any deals.
I purchased my shocks 6 years ago from www.shox.com and a call to them was VERY satisfying. I didn't find my copy of the original invoice, but Shox pulled it up on their computer and they will work to warranty the KYBs. I ended up purchasing a full set of Bilsteins instead of KYB, based on their recommendation. I mail the old shocks back and if KYB honors the warranty a refund check for the difference is sent back.

-John

 

So on a stock vehicle what would the difference be between the 5100 and bilsteins OEM replacement the 49/50's?

 

ProspectorTim,
If you pull this Ranchos, can you send them to me? I'll pay the shipping. They are supposed to have a Lifetime warranty, and I need a set for my 96.

Thanks,
Chris

 

I'm running the Bilsteins 5100, I think they are a great shock. Someone is selling a replacement bushing for the steering column on the "other site" for around $30 it's suppose to fix the "clunk".

 

Your truck's old enough that a DSS might help. Also, inspect the control arm bushings. Polyurethane is cheaper than stock rubber replacement.