Rustproofing door panels
Rustproofing door panels
Is there a great product that will stop/prevent rust in areas like the door seams along the rocker panels and the bottom of the tailgate?
Even here in dry Colorado I am seeing rust develope in these areas. I don't want to sand, prep, tweek, fuss with, or anything else to stop the rust. What I want is something that will penetrate the areas but won't wash off after a few months.
Thanks
Big Jimmy
Even here in dry Colorado I am seeing rust develope in these areas. I don't want to sand, prep, tweek, fuss with, or anything else to stop the rust. What I want is something that will penetrate the areas but won't wash off after a few months.
Thanks
Big Jimmy
Good old fashion oil! It wicks up hill (flows against gravity) seeps into tight places like the door skin lip that is folded over the inner door panel, and it displaces moisture. Stops the metal from oxidizing (rust) as long as it is present.
Brush the oil along a seam like I just described, let it sit for awhile (overnight is best), and wipe off the excess. I like it cause it goes in the same spots that the water goes into.
You can squirt it into drain plug holes in your doors, rocker panels, fender wells, tailgate, etc. It will wick into all the nook and crannys.
Yes it will drip for a day or two, but it works really well. There are even shops that will do this for you, and they actually add a wax to it to make it thicker. They apply it warm, and then it sets up a little so it don't drip.
There are DIY products out their as well one that omes to mind is waxoyl. I even found a recipe for it once on google.
I do my truck once a year, seems to be working well. KD
Brush the oil along a seam like I just described, let it sit for awhile (overnight is best), and wipe off the excess. I like it cause it goes in the same spots that the water goes into.
You can squirt it into drain plug holes in your doors, rocker panels, fender wells, tailgate, etc. It will wick into all the nook and crannys.
Yes it will drip for a day or two, but it works really well. There are even shops that will do this for you, and they actually add a wax to it to make it thicker. They apply it warm, and then it sets up a little so it don't drip.
There are DIY products out their as well one that omes to mind is waxoyl. I even found a recipe for it once on google.
I do my truck once a year, seems to be working well. KD
I repaired a pair of doors I got for cheap.. welded in a patch for the door skin and the sill and glassed over the repair on both. What I did was to just spray the heck out of the inside of the sill and skin with an etching primer. You could use a zinc primer as well. If I hadnt already had the paint out Id have used a phosphoric acid treatment like 'must for rust'. That will etch the metal and create a layer of reacted chemical that doesnt rust. Good for parts that dont see rock chips and such, like the inside of a door or a repaired rocker panel.
You could spray oil or paraffin lube in there to repel the water, but once you do that it will be that much harder to do bodywork inside later on.
If you look at how these doors rust, it always starts in the folded area where the skin goes around the sill. Id go in there with some silicone sealant and try to keep the water out altogether.
You could spray oil or paraffin lube in there to repel the water, but once you do that it will be that much harder to do bodywork inside later on.
If you look at how these doors rust, it always starts in the folded area where the skin goes around the sill. Id go in there with some silicone sealant and try to keep the water out altogether.
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Not to sure about the silicone. It is acidic untill it cures, and talk about painting, paint don't like silicone. If you seal that lip, it will hold even more moisture as water still gets inside the door, and the silicone will just help hold it in.
The oil can be stripped or cut with any solvent, so if repainting, just clean it with the solvent, then follow up with grease and wax remover. KD
The oil can be stripped or cut with any solvent, so if repainting, just clean it with the solvent, then follow up with grease and wax remover. KD
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