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Lower Ball Joint advice

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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 10:30 AM
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stoneman's Avatar
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From: Louisville,Ky
Lower Ball Joint advice

I need to replace lower driver side ball joint. I have read the service manual & it doesnt seem to be beyond me. Anyone have any tips on this repair? Can this be done with removing coil spring?
Manual also says "if ball joint is tacked on, replace lower arm"***!

Two wheel drive.
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 04:02 PM
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Duff's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Re: Lower Ball Joint advice

Originally posted by stoneman
I need to replace lower driver side ball joint. I have read the service manual & it doesnt seem to be beyond me. Anyone have any tips on this repair? Can this be done with removing coil spring?
Manual also says "if ball joint is tacked on, replace lower arm"***!

Two wheel drive.
I just finished replacing lwrs, uppers, tie rod ends, and shocks.
The job wasn't too hard. Do a search for balljoints here. Someone posted a link to a pretty good shortcut with pictures. Napa's come with zirc fittings and Autozone loans out the balljoint press.
Good luck
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 04:08 PM
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Re: Re: Lower Ball Joint advice

Originally posted by Duff
I just finished replacing lwrs, uppers, tie rod ends, and shocks.
The job wasn't too hard. Do a search for balljoints here. Someone posted a link to a pretty good shortcut with pictures. Napa's come with zirc fittings and Autozone loans out the balljoint press.
Good luck
the link is on pavementsucks.com
and the Hayes manual $15 at auto store helps too.
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 04:23 PM
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From: Brentwood, CA - Dallas, Tx
I know my driver's side lower ball joint is out of spec bad b/c everytime I turn I hear a nice pop from the ball joint. And I know it's not the shock b/c it was tighted already in while trying to remedy this noise.

How much for the ball joints from Napa? Are they better then the OEM?

-CM
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 04:45 PM
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Duff's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Originally posted by cmckinney
I know my driver's side lower ball joint is out of spec bad b/c everytime I turn I hear a nice pop from the ball joint. And I know it's not the shock b/c it was tighted already in while trying to remedy this noise.

How much for the ball joints from Napa? Are they better then the OEM?

-CM
About $50...upper and lower from NAPA both have grease fittings. Some say go with Moog, I do not know that product though so I can not refer them.
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 05:25 PM
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ET RAM's Avatar
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From: East Texas
Stoneman I am glad you asked this question as I was about to ask the same thing. All the research I have done points to MOOG ball joints as the best. I finally found them at O'Reilly Auto Parts. As I recall they were 75 for the lowers and 55 for the upper. They do have grease fittings. My question about the spring is the same. Can the joints be replaced without removing the spring? If yes, do you have to secure the spring in any way? The haynes manual says to remove the spring. Also, is there a technique for changing the uooer and lowers? Do you do both at the same time, the uppers first or the lowers first. Any help will be appreciated.

ET
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 05:28 PM
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From: Pa
I went w/ Moog 100,000 miles ago - upper and lower. If I remember right, the ball joints were easier that the trackbar. Can't remember where I got them - 2 states ago! I like Moog. Lifetime warranty on most of their stuff. Definitly get a loaner press if you don't have one. I went w/ just the Haynes manual for instruction, don't remember any problems. I sure don't remember ever removing the coil spring. Wish I remembered more that would help.
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 06:42 PM
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From: Virginia
I ordered a bunch of suspension parts from www.rockauto.com if nothing else you can use them as a reference for prices.
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 07:21 PM
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Duff's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Originally posted by ET RAM
Stoneman I am glad you asked this question as I was about to ask the same thing. All the research I have done points to MOOG ball joints as the best. I finally found them at O'Reilly Auto Parts. As I recall they were 75 for the lowers and 55 for the upper. They do have grease fittings. My question about the spring is the same. Can the joints be replaced without removing the spring? If yes, do you have to secure the spring in any way? The haynes manual says to remove the spring. Also, is there a technique for changing the uooer and lowers? Do you do both at the same time, the uppers first or the lowers first. Any help will be appreciated.

ET
Springs can stay. Place your floor jack up under lwr control arm to keep in place.
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Old Feb 9, 2004 | 10:09 PM
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ET RAM's Avatar
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From: East Texas
Thanks for all the replies. Duff that pavementsucks.com was most helpful. I will borrow the tools from AutoZone and get this done in the next week or so. I will use a diegrinder to grind the tack welds if mine are welded. Thanks again for the help.

ET
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Old Feb 10, 2004 | 05:54 AM
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Duff's Avatar
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From: Virginia Beach, Va
Originally posted by ET RAM
Thanks for all the replies. Duff that pavementsucks.com was most helpful. I will borrow the tools from AutoZone and get this done in the next week or so. I will use a diegrinder to grind the tack welds if mine are welded. Thanks again for the help.

ET
Your welcome
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