Hi Guys, using the excellent recommendations and posts by the members of this forum, I decided to tackle a front end suspension rebuild. It seems as if as soon as I pick up one specialty tool, I have to get another, etc..

I realize I screwed up the order in which I removed everything which puts me where I'm at now. I got the special 2 9/64" socket for the upper ball joints and replaced the passenger side with few issues (which by the way is included in the ball joint kit for loan at Advanced Auto Parts...the only place that had this). I have taken out the shocks and springs (where I messed up) leaving just the lower ball joint. I now realize the errors of my ways but was hoping someone might have some advice to free the taper.

A regular ball joint pickle fork (15/16") will not work on the lower ball joint because the bolt is too big, so what I did was use a pickle fork made for a pitman arm. The problem with that is that the forks are too long and with the steering knuckle bolts and spindle in the way, I had to do a little improv. I cut about 3/4" off the forks and retapered. Thought that FINALLY, I could break this sucker free. Alas, I was able to get it in pretty far, but the taper will not break. I finally gave up well after my muscles did.

I've read that heating the knuckle then knocking it with a BFH will shock the taper loose, but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone else had some good advice for me before I tried tackling this again.

Thanks in advance!

Scott
92 D250

 

The way that I always remove ball joints is with a sledge hammer, I always used this even when removing the joints from 50' transit coaches up to around 2" in diameter but it is not done by simply beating on the joint, you need to back up the ball joint with another sledge hammer to the opposite side so it is the joint that is absorbing the shock.

Have someone hold a sledge against the backside of the joint and then you give it a few good blows on the front side and then it should easly drop out, it also helps if there is still spring tension present.

If you only beat on it from one side most of the shock is being absorbed by the suspension, your lower A arm is suspended in rubber.

OTC does have one that fits in the front of an air chisel that should work.

The kit I borrowed from Auto Zone did not work to well for reinstalling the lower ball joint and tore the boot so they had to give me another one.

BTW never be tempted to apply heat with a torch, this can cause the end of the control arm to fracture and you can loose your front spindle unexpectedly.

Jim

 

I've done this a few times... its a *****, and most times ball joints don't go bad, just seem as if they do. But if one goes, do both top and bottom.

One thing i do by my self was place a jack stand under the a-arm. Then with a big hammer(aka swing press) strike it squarely and firmly until it loosens up. Usually 2 or 3 times. Something about the vibration frees it.. Re-install is more difficult and i have found autozone tools don't work on doges. i used a commercial press for this part ever since i found out how easy it is. I also remove a-arm and press them out, its soooo much easier.

 

Thanks for the advice guys...turns out I just bought an air hammer, compressor, jack stands, arbor press, and other goodies from Harbor Freight today. I don't have another hand to help (buddies seemed to disappear when they got wind of this project), so I'll try the jack stand method. Makes sense to me! My arms got so tired beating that pickle fork in that I could barely put a shirt on this morning!

I've actually got 2 ball joint presses...1 from Auto Zone and the other from Advanced Automotive. The Advanced set is massive and seems better made.

Also should mention I did buy a Pickle Fork for the Air Hammer but I dont think it's wide enough. Jim, what from OTC were you referring to?

 

OK...I got home and had full intentions on tackling this, however, it seems as is the upper control arm is in the way of my "swing press" Should I completely remove the upper control arm to make this doable or am I missing something?

 

Can't push it up out of the way and secure it? c-clamp or something should work, i don't remember having this problem. Or jack the front of the truck up more allowing more room to drop the lower.
Don't remove either upper or lower without noting where the cam bolts are keyed. Take a picture or use a sharpie to be able to get the alignment back in the ballpark. If you do remove them you might want to look into getting poly bushings, esp if you have a lot of miles. They really tighten up the front end.

 

http://www.otctools.com/products/man...ickle_fork_set

Enter "Ball Joints"

http://www.otctools.com/products/popular.php

Jim

 

Thanks Jim! I found a similar set at Northern Tool for $10.99 which is conveniently located near my office. I'm replacing everything on the front end...all bushings, tie rods, centerlink, shocks (Bilstein), springs...the works. I went with Moog on the ball joints and most or the steering linkage. 7226 springs based on too many negative comments on the 7226s. I figured if I was already getting my hands dirty, might as well do it all!

 

The plot thickens...I now have the hub completely off my truck. I have banged that thing more than (insert Tiger Woods sexual reference here). I have also soaked in PB oil, and gone after it with an air hammer w/ pickle fork attachment. The ball joint will not budge. I have completely mushroomed the top of the ball joint stud and am at my wits end. I have also wedged a pickle fork in pretty good and banged at the stud and knuckle...nada.

Should I just give up and take it to a shop or is there something else? Jim I know you said not to heat the knuckle but I'm running out of ideas!

My buddy agreed to come over tomorrow to help

 

DO NOT HEAT, although very tempting! I've been in the same spot your in... its no fun, this is what i did, maybe get other options first. I cut, well grounded through the threads of the ball joint and drilled a 3/8" divot in the top. This was for that gear puller i had, so it wouldn't slide off. I managed to get it out and decided to take the other side to the shop.

Where are you btw? If your in the willow grove, PA area i can have them pressed out for free(they can also separate the balljoint from the spindle).

 

You guys are all so cool! I appreciate the offer, but I'm in Texas. What do you think about this idea...cut off the base of the ball joint than use a combo ball joint press/impact wrench to finish her off. I'd do that now but it's a bit to tall and awkward to manage. Below is a pic of what I am dealing with...


Thanks so much for the help guys!

 

Humm... maybe your not swinging hard enough, get an old man to hit that sucker for ya with a 5lb sledge. It'll come out.

 

When you are separating the taper, one of the key elements is to have tension to help push the pieces apart as you jar them with a hammer. Generally the coil spring is still there, and is a great help. If the spring is gone, what I will usually do is have a helper with a giant prybar somehow apply tension between the two pieces while I smack the side of the knuckle boss until the taper pops loose.

 

How heavy is your sledge? Use at least an 8-pound, a dead-blow will not work.

You cannot give it love taps but you have to smack it hard and hold it from the end of the handle and I still say that you need to back it up with another sledge or a piece of steel so the joint takes the shock. I see that there is not a lot of surface to hit.

Have you tried to drive in 2 pickle forks on top of each other and hit it with the sledge to split the joint?

Is the top joint loose so you can level out the space below the joint? Can you get any more room if you remove the backing plate?

Reassemble the upper and secure the nut, use a small bottle jack and blocks between the top and bottom to exert hydraulic force against the joint, then smack it.

Also if you hadn’t destroyed the nut already you could have put a deep socket between the upper and lower joint and use the nut and an open end wrench to press out the stud by tightening the nut against the socket.

If the joint is in a position that is hard to get a good swing, have an assistant hold the sledge square and against the joint and then you hit the head of the hammer with your sledge. Always wear safety glasses and wrap a towel around the head of the hammer because it can chip and hit you like a bullet. Safety disclaimer aside I have used this method many times to remove axle flanges.

If you have a porta-power you may use it now.
Good luck.
Jim

 

Again, thank you all for the advice. I'll try it all this evening while I have a helper. I'm not sure how big my sledge is. It has a small handle (a foot or so) so maybe that is part of my problem. I'll go buy a bigger one today...I'm borrowing this one from my neighbor anyway.

As a side note...I bought this truck so I could challenge myself. I grew up with a father who didn't hunt, fish, golf, or do anything remotely mechanical, so I don't really have the background that would help me at this point other than creativity. Most of the tools I have been using on this project have been recently purchased. I can see why so many of you enjoy these trucks. I get alot of satisfaction doing something I have never done before but without the assistance of the members of this forum, I'd be stuck like Chuck.

I'll let you all know what finally get's the job done!

EDIT: My hammer is definitely under 5 lbs....I'm gonna go pick up this bad boy now...http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4802_200344802