So my ignition switch broke. (I think) I turn the key and it has no resistance and no detents. It does turn the power on and off. It turned to the start position but didn't always engage the starter unless I pushed inwards really hard.

I pulled the ignition and a a little piece of pot metal fell out after I removed the lock cylinder. Couldn't tell it it was from the lock cylinder or the ignition switch. Don't see anything that looks broke.

I bought a new ignition switch and put the old lock cylinder in it. With the switch setting on the bench; as you turn the key, the key turns freely and both of the shafts on the back side of the ignition turn like they should. It doesn't spring back from the start position, but I am not sure it is supposed to. It still feels like the detents don't work on the bench. Doesn't feel exactly like I'd expect.

When I Install the switch on the truck, it turns to the "on" position OK, and sends power everywhere. But they key will not physically turn to the start position. I pulled the switch off and put it back on numerous times. With the switch out, they key does turn to the start position. Tried installing it with they key in various positions (only "off" will allow things to line up to install). In any case it is very hard to align the two shafts on the back if the switch with the gadgets they operate in the steering column.

Two shafts come out of the back of the ignition switch. The top one is fairly short and turns in an arc type motion and slides some sort of lever in the steering column back and forth. Not sure what that does (maybe locks the steering wheel from turning?). The bottom shaft is longer and looks like an old church key. As it rotates it appears to engage a switch inside the steering column. I assume that is the starter switch. I can push that switch easily with my finger. That bottom shaft is particularly hard to get in its receiving hole on the steering column correctly. Everything on both the switch and the steering column moves freely when apart but appears to bind up going to the start position when I install the switch. I am not sure but I think the bottom shaft is the one binding up.

Not sure what to do next. What do the the two levers in the steering column do? Any suggestions or insights appreciated.

 

I had a problem with a Napa ignition switch. It would bind up when you would tighten down the mounting screws. I fixed that problem by making some shims to keep the body from flexing when the screws tightened down.

 

I think I now hold the world's record for unsuccessful attempts to install an ignition switch in sub freezing weather.

What I found today: The new switch has a slightly larger diameter shaft on the lower shaft that looks like a church key. The old one is .123" dia while the new one is .130" I found drill bits that measure .122" and .135". the small bit fits in the receiving hole in the steering column, but the larger bit doesn't. So the new switch is likely binding on the lower shaft. So much for NAPA quality.

The broken piece of metal I found is indeed off the lock cylinder. I could see it clearly in today's daylight. I re-installed the lock cylinder back on the old switch. With the broken piece out, it turns like you'd expect on the bench with detents and all (unlike it does in the new switch. Again so much for NAPA quality. That new switch is a P.O.S. I think my old OEM one is fine).

But as I install the old switch and lock cylinder on the truck. It goes on feeling like it fits OK, but it still won't turn to the start position once installed ????? I tried loosening it and it still doesn't work right until you fully remove it. I must be doing something wrong, but don't know what.

I will order a new lock cylinder as mine is obviously broken. But I am willing to bet it will not solve the problem, It, installed in the old switch works fine now on the bench but not installed in the truck.

Guess I will get the lock mechanism off Amazon or Ebay as I have lost faith in NAPA.

 

See if there are any more pieces that may have fallen into the column. Also, something may have gotten bent because of the broken piece.

 

It would appear the broken piece is accounted for and was confined to inside the switch. I appreciate your comment about bent pieces inside the column, but everything appears as it should, although I don't have a second truck to compare it against. (Still don't know what those two shafts physically do) You are right in that it seems obvious that the shafts are binding against something inside the column. I just can't see what it would be though. I even contemplated cutting the shafts off one of the switches to help troubleshoot the problem. Haven't gone there yet.

 

For anyone interested, I found this U tube video: . It covers changing an ignition switch on a Jeep in detail, but it looks virtually identical to a doing it on Dodge truck.
I learned those two shafts on the back of the switch are for the steering lock and the shifting lock.
It would have been nice to watch this before I started, but I didn't pick up any clues on why I can't get mine back together from this video though. I can't see where I am doing anything wrong. The mechanics for one of those two locks just binds the both my new and old switch up when it is installed. Could be why things broke in the first place.
I am now seriously contemplating cutting both of those shafts off and somehow wedging the steering lock and shifting lock actuators to the unlocked position. (I am getting desperate) Where I live, I usually never bother pulling the key out of my ignition anyway.

 

I've seen that piece break on several trucks. Have never had any further problems after building a new lock cylinder and installing it in the old switch.

 

I think you are right, Torquefan. Today I hooked up the battery to see if turning it to the start position without the ignition switch installed would engage the starter. Even though the lock cylinder turns to the start position, the starter doesn't engage. That little piece of broken metal is my problem. A new cylinder is on order.

 

What's best brand switch to buy. My 97 switch did not turn in cold weather. I sprayed lube in it. Works now. Will I have a problem soon. Again. I feel a new switch is needed. But don't want a cheap part. Any ideas

 

I sure can't answer that. I bought an expensive $60 NAPA switch, and it looked and acted like a flimsy Chinese imitation. The OEM switch was much more stout.
I then bought a cheap $12 lock cylinder on Ebay (probably is Chinese) instead of the $50 NAPA one and it seems just fine. I don't know how one determines if they are getting quality before the act buying anymore. Price doesn't guarantee quality. I do know buying stuff on ebay can be risky.