I got into my truck today, and noticed that the lights on the information board did not turn off. I lost my heater fan, and my power windows. I can get the lights to turn off if I have the heater on the off position,or if i move my key back a hair once the truck is running. My next step is deciding if i want to spend $50 dollars to see if it is the ignition. Does anyone have any other ideas that may be causing this?

I went to o'reilly's and they wanted to sell me the attached part, which does not look like the right thing. If it is, can anyone let me know.

Thanks for any help.

 

that is indeed an ignition switch. and as you can see, the mounting holes are slotted.

Soooooo, get under there, loosen the screws that hold it to the column, and try moving it down the column until you get the desired results. If this works, then you know it is the switch. hit it with some contact cleaner, and perhaps some 12/34 penetrating lube, and see if it lasts. If not, then replace it.

 

I had the same problem! It is the switch, but NOT the one pictured above (if your sig is right as a 92 were talking about here) it's in the colum and The one above is a circa 81-91.4
go to your dealer fer the right one unless the teenager at napa can get it right

 

I just changed mine last month. Carquest # is ECC 53-27717. I'm sure NAPA or other can cross it.

 

Search Ignition switch on here and someone has the Napa one written down. It is listed as a 94-97 on Napa's website I believe, but it looks like the one for my 93. I havn't put mine in yet, but it's the number someone on here had used. It has the halo ring for around your lock cylinder that looks correct as well.

 

I replaced the switch this morning (with the correct one from Napa #KS6557), to find out that it is not the switch. It must be before the switch. Anyone familiar with the wiring, and what might be causing this?

 

All your fusable links good? If you didn't know already, most are coming off the + terminal where an 8 or 4 gauge wire branches off to 5 or 6 smaller wires. Those smaller wires are designed to act like a fuse (just cheaper). I think there is something in the sticky with pictures that might help if you don't know what I'm speaking of. I have an issue with my ignition switch that fried the fuseable links, so just replacing it won't help until the link is changed or replaced with Maxi fuses.

 

Thanks, I'll see what I can find in the day light tomorrow !!

 

Hope this helps. Link:
Replacing fusible links with fuses:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...09#post1407509

May I note that I think he is using too small of fuses (as a few people point out later in the thread) He had a friend say what the fuseable links represent for an amperage rating. However, my research churned up that fuseable links are usually 4 sizes smaller than the wire you should use in the circuit. For example (taken from a Mopar site when researching the same topic).

A White link (22g) is rated to burn at 30a, and it should be feeding a 14g wire that is rated for 30a. However, the white 22g wire's "normal" capacity (if it were a normal wire, and not a fuseable link) would be the much lower 7 amps or something that the fellow's friend advised him on. This circuit alone feeds 3 circuits in your fuse panel that have fuses of 15a, 25a, and 15a! So the 10a fuse used can not suffice. My research churned this up and I will be doing this:

BLACK (12g)= 160a feeding (2) 8g wires (this is the grid heater relays, I think FSM says 6g though, not sure if 2 links are needed)
GREY (18g)= 50a feeding a 12g wire
ORANGE (20g)= 40a feeding a 14g wire
WHITE (22g)= 30a feeding a 14g wire

I think I'd step up the feeder wires after the fuses though. I found a more conservative source of amperage rating for power cables:

1/0g= 350a 2g=225a 4g=150a 8g=100a 10g=80a 12g=40a 14g=25a 16g=15a

Hope some of this helps.

 

I did not find anything wrong with the fusible links. It appeared to me the switch i ordered was bad, or simply wrong for the truck. I think that because I never got continuity (when simply testing the switch from the hot terminal) to go to the (heater/window) terminal when going through all the cycles. (the third from the bottom). I am getting power to my switch, but just not able to send it the right direction. I was able to get the heat and windows working by using a jumper from my hot at the connector. I returned the switch that i got from napa (said it was for a 94), and took my switch to the dealership,where they took the part number and ordered one for me. Hopefully this switch works for me.

I have looked at the diagrams, but am not good at reading them. Am i correct in saying that the power from the bottom(Hot) should be "switched" over to the third from the bottom (AC/Window).

 

the switch they have me was for a "94" as well, but it was the part number people gave out on here. I haven't tried mine yet however.

How much at the dealership? I remember it was a little under $70 at Napa.

 

Looks like I'm heading back to the fuseable link again, I found someone who can read a wiring diagram better, and explained that there needs to be 2 hot wires going up to the switch. So I'm working on tracing my wire to the fusable link, to find out where the issue is at. The napa was only $30, and dealer is $60.