southerman

what is the modifactoin to make the 9007 fit and what wires do you switch to where and relay are we talking about come on more info what more light i drive 100 miles a day to work round trip so half the time in the dark.

TurboDeezul

You will find some detailed write ups with pictures if you Google this mod. For example, same mod, but on a Nissan Maxima...

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...rade-pics.html

nickg

I had 9004 in a set of OEM housings, as we all know light output was stupidly low,so I tried silverstars, even 80-100W bulbs with hardly any change in light. even tried having the Hi and lows wired so they were both on, again limited sucess. Next I bought a set of clear assys off E-Bay, even though they still used 9004 bulbs there was an improvement of almost double, next I did the relay mod, that drastically improved my light output, finally I found a set of used/slighly hazy/scratched assys from a Sport truck, light output is amazing, I used to need my 50w fogs on with my low beams just to see at night, now I no longer need the fogs.

after trying just about every combination out there, I believe the best results are the sport headlights along with the wiring mod upgrade, only regret was I should have done it years earlier.

what got me started was a post about Daniel Stern, edventually I sent him an E-mail and he responded with a whole crap load of info, being in Canada we have Daytime running lights, so that poses a problem when doing the relay mod, I have kept the info saved and will post how to by-pass the DRL and still have your hi-beam indicator work, also Stern sells a PARKLIGHT DRL which I can vouch for that works flawlessly, and it looks good seeing as I'm the only truck in my city (at least that I have seen) with Parklight DRL's


here is a copy of the said e-mail

Greetings, Nick.

The 1-bulb headlamps (9004 only) are hopeless. So are all the aftermarket lamps for these trucks -- they're all junk.

Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are
*much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got. The
Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only)
and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam
patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring
adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve
the bulbs.

You need:

-a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. Get
the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com , not the
Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet. Factory part
numbers are as follows:

Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC
Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC
Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC
Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC

(The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new headlamps; I've
listed the Sport type park/turn units because their clear-lens design
matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the above numbers may
from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you do a part
number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com - go ahead and buy whatever the
latest part number is).

-A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $79
here.

The installation package includes all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals,
fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. --
everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_
eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring, without
cutting the truck's original wires. For general information about relay
installation, see
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...ys/relays.html Note that
RIK-RAM is not a harness, it is a parts kit. You start with the truck's
unmodified original headlamp circuit, none of which will need to be cut or
otherwise brutalized, supply your own wire and time, and the end result is
a heavy-duty headlamp harness that operates the Sport lamps *correctly*
and without voltage drop, in a non-Sport Ram truck.

-A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs.

Far and away the best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Power items:
http://store.candlepower.com/bfcopo90hbpo1.html

The best 9004s are the GE Night Hawk 9004NH items, which you can get from www.amazon.com .

Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use.

Regarding the Sport lamps themselves: There is only one proper operational
setup for these lamps, and that is as follows-

Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other
filaments off.

High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament
of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off.

The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do
not have optics to focus the light from it.

In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together!
Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD.
They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common
filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more
than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing.
Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the
headlamp, destroying it. Some people who think they're clever wire it up
this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of
this "clever" (not) modification.

If yours is a Canadian-spec truck (either by original manufacture or by private importation), or you're not in Canada but have had the Daytime Running Light function enabled, you will need to rework the daytime running lamps. The stock DRL configuration runs the high beam circuit at reduced duty cycle. This is not compatible with any kind of relay installation. http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Dodge has info. Once you have installed the new headlamps, you need to re-enable the DRLs.

Re-enabling (or adding) DRLs:

If you are interested in having (or keeping, after you install headlamp relays) a daytime running light function on your vehicle, the best implementation is the full-time operation of the front directional signals (except, of course, when they are operating as signals). Directional signals produce a light distribution with a wide conspicuity angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less
power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than any headlamp bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. Most recent Cadillacs, Chevrolet/GMC large vans and minivans, some Chrysler, Toyota, and Lexus models, certain new Lincolns and assorted other vehicles use this implementation. Note we are talking about the full-time operation of the bright amber turn signals, not the dim parking lamps. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories. You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($42 here, see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html )

HOW TO ORDER:

Orders may be sent via e-mail to: dastern@torque.net

You may also voicemail or fax your order toll-free on 1-866-861-8668.
Please note this is a recorded orderline only. If you wish to speak to me
in person, please use 416-766-2327.

nickg

Here is a pic with just parklights
here is with the ParK light DRL


here is with X2 50Watt and 2X100W in the bumper and 2x100W on the bumper PLUS my sports on High, the headlights are just as bright as any of the other bulbs

nickg

here is the diagram for the DRL, basically unplug your DRL, in my case it was fried it would keep my lights on, I could not shut them off, likey fied because I was running higher wattage bulbs at the time.

once unplugged your headlights will work normally except for no DRL feature or that the hi-beam indicator will not work, hi-beam indicator will be restored once you jumper 2 wires together

Homestead

I've been wanting to change my DRL's over to my park lights for awhile now, problem solved. Thanks Nick!!

Jeff