Headlight Bulb Upgrade.............
11-19-2010, 06:30 PM
#16
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With the relays and the bulb upgrade high beam is crazy.
11-20-2010, 12:47 AM
#17
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I did the sport conversion about a year ago and have been happy with that. I'm wondering if someone was to just switch bulbs without doing better wiring if that would cause problems in long run with wires or the switch. since the conversion wires in the sport conversion runs with the relays and doesn't affect the switch. (if that made sense).
11-20-2010, 10:17 PM
#19
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No one has mentioned the Sport Headlight conversion yet. I went through replacing my stock headlights with the Sylvania SilverStars, but eventually went with the Sport Headlight conversion. AMAZING difference at night. The Sport conversion really lights up the night. I wired them with relays, so as to take the load off of the switch, and now when I pull back on the multifunction switch I have 8 filliments blasting light into the darkness. Flippin' amazing!
11-20-2010, 11:17 PM
#20
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No one has mentioned the Sport Headlight conversion yet. I went through replacing my stock headlights with the Sylvania SilverStars, but eventually went with the Sport Headlight conversion. AMAZING difference at night. The Sport conversion really lights up the night. I wired them with relays, so as to take the load off of the switch, and now when I pull back on the multifunction switch I have 8 filliments blasting light into the darkness. Flippin' amazing!
11-21-2010, 06:21 AM
#22
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The first thing that you need to do to improve your lighting is to install a set of relays on your headlamps to get full battery voltage AND current to each lamp, if you were to check at the lamp socket you would see that you were probably getting 1 or 2 volts less than battery voltage.
Although I have a 1st Gen and have to use H6054 Silver Stars I am extracting about the most light anyone can get from them by using relays and driving them to extreme voltage limits of 13.8 volts 1 volt more that they are rated for in the specifications.
My slightly modified charging system consist of a 110-555JHO Leece Neville class-8 alternator rated at 160-amps cruising and 100-amps @ idle required me to build an additional voltage regulator to reduce the voltage at the headlamps.
The life of the Silver Stars are considerable shorter than a regular Halogen lamp with the trade off being an extremely brighter light, I get on average between 6 to 9 months on a set of lamps and as soon as one side burns out, the other side will follow within a week.
Here is a writeup on how to install a set of relays on a 1st. Gen. without looking at a schematic you should only have to change the socket to the lamps, unless you have DRL's than it gets a bit more complicated but not impossible.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=176263
Here is a video of the lighting in my truck.
Also things to consider with your composite headlights, Silver Star and Ultra's burn extremely hot to produce the bright light, and your housings are only plastic, use caution burning both Low an High beams together or you can melt your headlamp housings, I have seen this happen.
To me the increased light output of Silver Stars are well worth having to replace the lamps every 6 to 9 months.
Jim
Although I have a 1st Gen and have to use H6054 Silver Stars I am extracting about the most light anyone can get from them by using relays and driving them to extreme voltage limits of 13.8 volts 1 volt more that they are rated for in the specifications.
My slightly modified charging system consist of a 110-555JHO Leece Neville class-8 alternator rated at 160-amps cruising and 100-amps @ idle required me to build an additional voltage regulator to reduce the voltage at the headlamps.
The life of the Silver Stars are considerable shorter than a regular Halogen lamp with the trade off being an extremely brighter light, I get on average between 6 to 9 months on a set of lamps and as soon as one side burns out, the other side will follow within a week.
Here is a writeup on how to install a set of relays on a 1st. Gen. without looking at a schematic you should only have to change the socket to the lamps, unless you have DRL's than it gets a bit more complicated but not impossible.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=176263
Here is a video of the lighting in my truck.
Also things to consider with your composite headlights, Silver Star and Ultra's burn extremely hot to produce the bright light, and your housings are only plastic, use caution burning both Low an High beams together or you can melt your headlamp housings, I have seen this happen.
To me the increased light output of Silver Stars are well worth having to replace the lamps every 6 to 9 months.
Jim
11-23-2010, 06:32 PM
#23
Registered User
hi
i used a harness with relays and flosser 9104 bulbs 100/80 w and a diode from radio shack !
my low beams are much brighter than my old hi beams , and all filiments on on high .
2+years and not one bad bulb yet !
i used a harness with relays and flosser 9104 bulbs 100/80 w and a diode from radio shack !
my low beams are much brighter than my old hi beams , and all filiments on on high .
2+years and not one bad bulb yet !
11-23-2010, 09:10 PM
#24
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Sport light conversion, relay harnesses, Flosser 9104's and 9107's. Four filaments on at all times. 400 watts on high beam and 320 watts on low beam! Running it for 4 years now with no problems. Easy to install.
11-24-2010, 02:14 AM
#25
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https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t175441p6.html
11-24-2010, 10:38 AM
#26
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This is where I ordered mine. Note that they have a fifty dollar minimum.
http://mdmetric.com/prod/flosser/flosserprice.htm
http://mdmetric.com/prod/flosser/flosserprice.htm
11-24-2010, 07:10 PM
#28
Help
I bought a set of 9007 silverstars & did the conversion as per the write up. Now my dims absolutely suck & the brights are ok. Then I tried to revert back to stock & the lights are the same even after switching the wires back.
What the heck did I do ?
With a a test light, the only way I can get a ground is with the headlight switch on.
(should I get good ground with the switch off ?)
With the lights on & the test light hooked to the batt neg terminal, I get good light testing from the high beam wire, then switching the switch to the low beam wire, I get just a dim glow.
Sometimes those simple upgrades aren't so simple after all ??
Any ideas ??
What the heck did I do ?
With a a test light, the only way I can get a ground is with the headlight switch on.
(should I get good ground with the switch off ?)
With the lights on & the test light hooked to the batt neg terminal, I get good light testing from the high beam wire, then switching the switch to the low beam wire, I get just a dim glow.
Sometimes those simple upgrades aren't so simple after all ??
Any ideas ??
11-24-2010, 10:28 PM
#30
We got it figured out........ground isn't really ground.......it's a "common" in this case. Switched the wires around until we got it to work. The generic internet wire switching diagram listed on the conversion wasn't right according to the way my truck was wired.
Just another learning curve in the road.
