http://citycarcompany.com/details.php?v_id=128

Are there any things I need to watch for? The dealer site says it was a Florida truck, so no snow/salt - what about the marine air? Does that rust cars out?

How do I know if it's a 12V or 24V?

Never towed heavy as it has never had a goose neck or 5th wheel hitch installed. Any worries about the auto transmission??? I'd like to get a manual, but those are tougher to find.

Is there anyway to know if the truck has ever been chipped? I just don't want to get something that's been beat on and may have issues 6 months down the road.

Any advice on price? It looks pretty good based on what I've seen around.

Thanks,

John

 

Its a 24v Looking at the pictures its under the 2500 on the door.

 

2001 = 24 Valve

 

If you do buy it one of the first things to do is get a Fuel Pressure gauge. Low pressure = Dead IP = $$$

 

I win the Duh Award for the day.

What kind of cost are you talking for fuel pressure gauge? What about the IP? Is there any way to know if the IP has already been replaced (looks different than stock, PN, etc)?

 

Look at Genos Garage or the DTR store for Gauges. Price depends on what you want there is a wide selection. I have the edge w/ attitude monitor so that has all the gauges built in.

As far as the IP, my new one looks just like the old one. It is just a common problem in these trucks, so it is something to monitor. Mine lasted 200k before it went.

Good Luck

 

So after doing a bunch of reading on the pumps...

The lift pump pulls fuel from the tank and sends it to the injector pump (vp44). The vp44 then kicks it up to the high pressure needed by the injectors. The problem is that when the lift pump goes, it puts undue strain on the vp44 causing it to fail as well. The fuel pressure that is critical is between the lift pump and vp44, and should be between 12 - 15 psi at all times.

If I were to replace the lift pump with a rail mounted FASS (with gauge) right away, and the vp44 hadn't been starved yet, how long could I expect the vp44 to last? I could handle putting a few hundred bucks and a weekend into it, but don't want to get stuck needing a >$1k vp44 right away.

 

hard to say how long it would last, pull codes before you buy, if you see a 0216, you can use it to bargan down the price of the truck, if its a later 01 you can cycle the key 3 times and it will show the codes in the odo window. my orginal vp lasted over 340,000kms on a weak LP(dropped to zero psi when at WOT), at the time I replaced it it was running fine with no codes, I only did it for peace of mind,
I would not worry if the truck ever had a chip or not, the motor will handle it, and not even break a sweat. if it had an edge EZ or J/A you will see velcro strips on the under the hood fuze box