Fuel gauge pegged to Full, barely moves
05-05-2016, 07:06 PM
#1
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Fuel gauge pegged to Full, barely moves
I just picked up a '99 3500 last week. My fuel gauge will stay pegged at/past full most of the time & finally starts moving down to about 3/4 full just before the low fuel chime comes on.
The low fuel light does not come on.
& when I shut the truck off, the furthest the fuel gauge will go down is to 1/2 a tank.
The truck is stock w/467K miles.
I thought MAYBE the cluster, but I've never seen one go bad?
It's like the gauge would probably work fine, it's just not 'clocked' where it should be...
The low fuel light does not come on.
& when I shut the truck off, the furthest the fuel gauge will go down is to 1/2 a tank.
The truck is stock w/467K miles.
I thought MAYBE the cluster, but I've never seen one go bad?
It's like the gauge would probably work fine, it's just not 'clocked' where it should be...
05-06-2016, 07:25 AM
#2
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I would check the sender in the tank. Notorious for going bad. Genos garage has them.
Dodge Ram Cummins and Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Parts, Accessories and Tech Info
Dodge Ram Cummins and Ram 1500 EcoDiesel Parts, Accessories and Tech Info
05-11-2016, 01:52 PM
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I have a good one from a '99 gasser... guess it will be experiment time 
Of course I have a dually & a full tank of fuel so there will be NO easy way
Of course I have a dually & a full tank of fuel so there will be NO easy way
05-16-2016, 05:05 PM
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Pulled the tank down today. First problem I saw was someone messed up the connector going into pump module / sender. Spliced on a new one, plugged it back in....same problem with the gauge.
I took the lock ring off & pulled the assembly from the tank. One side of the module is cocked because one of the side screws pulled off & is who knows where & the other pulled through the metal. Makes sense that the gauge is stuck full as the module is fully extended.
I took the lock ring off & pulled the assembly from the tank. One side of the module is cocked because one of the side screws pulled off & is who knows where & the other pulled through the metal. Makes sense that the gauge is stuck full as the module is fully extended.
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05-16-2016, 08:05 PM
#8
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My mistake, 1 side of the sender/module had popped out of it's track where the screw holds it next to the plastic. Put it back together & back on the track but with a large washer on either side...same problem with the gauge.
I had tried it earlier after I spliced on a new connector; same thing.
Guess that leaves the sender or the gauge in the dash.
I had tried it earlier after I spliced on a new connector; same thing.
Guess that leaves the sender or the gauge in the dash.
05-16-2016, 08:58 PM
#10
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This trick might work on your truck, the instrument cluster test:
If your fuel gauge moves correctly, then your tank sensor is the problem.
I had to replace mine about a year and a half ago. Mine was mostly normal but would stop near ¼ tank on the gauge. That caused me to run the tank dry once. I dropped the tank to replace, It wasn't to hard of a job. I also replaced the fuel lines with rubber lines while I was at it.
Originally Posted by Instrument Cluster Test
Insert the key into the ignition and rotate it one click forward to the OFF position. Push and hold the odometer reset button and then turn the key one click forward to the ON position while continuing to hold the reset button in. This will start the test:
- The odometer will read CHEC (you can let go of the odometer reset button here). The Wait To Start, Air Bag, and ABS lights should also light during this step. The PCM controls the instrument cluster, but the ECM, airbag module, and ABS module will function like normal during this which is why their lights are lit at first.
- The odometer will then change and read all 8's. The CRUISE and TRIP indicators under the digits will also be lit. No other indications will be lit during this part of the test. This lasts for about 5 seconds.
- The odometer will then test each and every segment of its display in sequence
- After that, every indicator on the dash will light up, with the exception of the Wait to Start light, turn signals, and high beam indicator. The WTS light is under control of the ECM which is why it does not light during this part of the test.
- The indicators will go out and then all of the gauge needles will move together in three steps. ¼ scale, ½ scale, and then full scale. The exception here is the fuel gauge, it will read 1/8, then ¼, then full.
- The gauges will go back to zero and the test is over. The door chime will sound and the instrument panel will return to normal.
- The odometer will read CHEC (you can let go of the odometer reset button here). The Wait To Start, Air Bag, and ABS lights should also light during this step. The PCM controls the instrument cluster, but the ECM, airbag module, and ABS module will function like normal during this which is why their lights are lit at first.
- The odometer will then change and read all 8's. The CRUISE and TRIP indicators under the digits will also be lit. No other indications will be lit during this part of the test. This lasts for about 5 seconds.
- The odometer will then test each and every segment of its display in sequence
- After that, every indicator on the dash will light up, with the exception of the Wait to Start light, turn signals, and high beam indicator. The WTS light is under control of the ECM which is why it does not light during this part of the test.
- The indicators will go out and then all of the gauge needles will move together in three steps. ¼ scale, ½ scale, and then full scale. The exception here is the fuel gauge, it will read 1/8, then ¼, then full.
- The gauges will go back to zero and the test is over. The door chime will sound and the instrument panel will return to normal.
I had to replace mine about a year and a half ago. Mine was mostly normal but would stop near ¼ tank on the gauge. That caused me to run the tank dry once. I dropped the tank to replace, It wasn't to hard of a job. I also replaced the fuel lines with rubber lines while I was at it.
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