My BU light switch went out awhile back, but since they were almost worthless anyway, I haven't replaced it.

I stole this idea from another member, but I can't remember who it was. Anyway, thanks for the idea.

I bought the lights on sale at Harbor Freight for $8.99 and the switch and switch cover from NAPA for $15.13 total. Even if my BU lights were working, I didn't want to wire into them. I tapped into the wire that goes to the license plate light so I could either activate them with the engine and lights on or with the engine off and the park lights on.

I mounted them through a hole that was already in the spring brackets. I should have ran the wires before I connected them, as I left the in-line fuse in a bit of a hard place to get to. Also, I mounted the switch with the "on" position "up" in case it accidentally got "tapped" when going over the tailgate. The ground wire in the passanger side light was getting a little hot, so I have left it unhooked for now. Not sure what is causing this......

It hasn't gotton dark yet, so I won't know for awhile how well it works.

 

Oh, I forgot..........Don't spend the extra money for parts from NAPA. The switch is OK, but the weatherproof cover would not seal good. I got it in place the best I could, and then put RTV around it for a better seal.

 

They work OK, much better the factory. But, if I was doing it again, I'd use the round "tractor" lights.

 

When I had my stock bumper I mounted a set of those lights in an existing hole in the bumper right by the hitch and tied them into the back up lights. Worked great for 5 years.

 

Good, glad to here they may last awhile.

Now............what are you still doing at home? You're burnin' beer night!

 

hey crobtex how do you like there mounted on the bottom of the spring bracket? I got some of those nampa tractor lights and goin to wire the two in that spot seems the easyest then run the wires just to the battery with a inline fuse and a switch as i dont need them on all the time and the switch is not that big of a deal then i was thinking on the other battery run the wires and another switch an another inline fuse towards the back corners of the bed two more of those lights pointed at my goose neck hitch and then the whole bed and the hitch would have great light to work out of also. It not like I will not notice that i left them on sos I dont have to worry about draining the batterys and besides i let her idel if iam hooking up at night or the wee hours of the morning and if iam working its not that big a deal to run the truck for a bit.

 

great setup!

 

You go out to early then no one's there and you come home to early. Still ended up coming home to early but that was for a different reason.

 

Birthday present, huh...............

 

The lights (light) works pretty well from under there. I adjusted it up, and even with the one, it puts out a lot of light. I'm going to have to find a higher amp circuit before I can get them both on at the same time. I think the tractor lights will work much better........not as directional.

 

I have two tractor lights like you are talking about. I used a hot wire direct from the battery, and used a old starter solenoid to supply the ground from the switch. Works darn good, except the solenoid died. Going to have to replace it with a relay designed to be more water proof. I mounted it behind my left tail light. Too much stuff gets thown up on it.

I have the same setup on both trucks, and really do appreciate the difference.

Ed

 

I have a set of 100-watt halogen driving lights for back-up lights.
They are relay controlled off my rear 8-D Deep cycle battery in addition to an auxiliary toggle in the cab.

On yours I would recommend running a 8ga. or 10ga.wire from the battery protected with a breaker along the frame rail to the rear, or you could get power from your trailer connector charge circuit if you have one.

These are also used to politely signal the moron behind you with the projectors on. Just make sure he doesn't have a light bar.
Looks great..
Jim

 

So when I figure out my lay out of how many lights I am going to use I think three can I just run all three to a together then to a relay then to the switch then to the battery? with the relay should I still use a inline fuse between the relay and the battery?

 

i always try to put a piece of paper or something over the licence plates when i take pictures.
thought id put that out there, a guy from another site told me the same thing an i thought id pass it on.

 

i hooked my up with a relay off of the reverse lites and the 12V wire from the hitch, no probs for 4yrs. I have no need to hook up a switch to manually turn them on,