Here is the scoop on a couple of 2nd gens I am looking at. Both are white quad cab short beds. One is a 2000 4x4 24valve freshly rebuilt auto with 200k and manual fill air bags for $7,900. He had the airbags installed to haul a large truck camper and cleaims 18mpg hiway with the camper on. He has only owned the truck for 20k and is done traveling with it so it goes for sale. I could not find the "53" anywhere but there was various leaks which I guess should be expected do to age. This one also has a 2" leveling kit.



The other truck is a 98 2x4 12valve auto with 200k for $7,200 with a gooseneck. He claims 15-17 due to a 4:10 gear. He has owned the truck since 2001 when it had 120k on it. He used it a couple weekends a month for a horse trailer. This one is much cleaner. No 53 spotted also.

I would be using this truck for construction use and daily driving so I would have to raise the 2wd a bit since my z71 used to bottom out on jobsites before I raised it a couple of inches. I am not sure if the 2wd would have a posi track so that may have to be added. I guess then some 33" e rated tires would go on to help with that 4:10 gear.

Any advice and opinions would be appreciated greatly. I do understand the 2000 truck would need a fuel pressure gauge and a new lift pump asap and the 98 would need the kdp done asap. Mild mods planned for fuel economy but no bombing. Thanks.

Ps
I have owned two 3rd gens so I am familiar with the cummins.

 

If its wet where you live the 2X4 may get pretty useless if you are going to take it off road. The torque coupled with the front end weight will get you stuck if you aren't careful....

 

A truck shouldn't really have "various leaks" due to age. Either it has something bad going on or it doesn't. A grimy engine due to age is another story. I wouldn't really trust a truck that the owner only had for 20K miles, especially with the leaks. JMHO....

 

The 2000 still has 200,000 which will cause some leaks also. These last forever but the rubber seals do leak.

 

Your choice. The 00 will need fuel system, VP, gauges, steering ie track bar, box....

The 12V will need....look in the 12V forum & see what the problems are besides the KDP. I'd love a 12V in a 24V body.

The leaks may be the puke bottle & PS/Vac Pump seal.

 

Frankly, I'd take the 12v over a 4by. A set of 33" tires might be all you need for jobsites. Its not like chev's have a lot of ground clearance. I know my dually had more frame clearance than a chev 2500 4by.

 

I have to have 4wd where I live unless I wanted to walk a mile up hill in the snow.

 

Put some weight in the back, and they do fine. Only time I got stuck in the snow was in a May snow storm that lasted a week and we got over a foot of snow. That was just in the parking lot at the plant I was working at, where it drifted a good bit higher. Driving the back roads, never had much issue. It was sketchy in places, but it would've been sketchy in my 4x4 too. The previous week was 20C and I unloaded all my weight. Had I kept my weight in there, I most likely wouldn't have gotten stuck, and as a result, never bought my 12v.

 

Thanks for the opinions guys, I was starting to wonder about getting input from the 2nd gen crowd. I am in Texas and have mostly owned 4x4's but usually pulling the boat out of the water I just leave them in 2 wheel. I am thinking I can get a little better economy out of the 12 valve and like the old school simplicity. Try this link for some pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1372600...7624556632651/

 

I guess I need to add the fact that the 12 valve does have some blow by. Not really sure how to tell if it is enough to mean anything bad. Off the two trucks the cleaner 12 valve sounds less solid cab wise. Maybe its that horse trailer they have been hauling around.