98 model , I replaced compressor and drier. Auto parts store cant tell me or doesnt show a orphace for this year ? Is there one or is it a liquid line type system. Anyone know where the drain plug is on the compressor? What should my line pressures be? 6-12 on low side and twice the outside temp on high side +15-20 % ..

 

Orifice tube is in the line comming out the top of the condenser.
No drain on compressor
Pressure have a lot of vairiables(SP) roughly 40low 270high but its best to just put the amount in that is stated on the sticker.

All that being said, if you locked a compressor up and you don't have the condenser flushed you don't have a chance.

 

Did a complete disassembly of the entire A/C system this weekend. For anyone doing this yourself .There is no orfice tube on a 98 model truck. The system uses a liquid line type system. Pull the line from drier to condenser and flush.I was told by a friend his 95 model has the orfice tube near the condenser. flush your lines with ester oil and condenser blow them out with airhose. re-install everthing pull a vaccum. and charge system. Line pressures should be 40-50 on low side. 200-320 on high side. depending on the outside temp. You may have to spray condenser with waterhose to lower high side pressure. If temps are like they were here around 100. I couldnt get the freon to suck into the system so if this is a problem lile it was for me. Get a bucket of hot water and place the can in it. system holds 2lbs of freon.

 

Good info, thanks Flashpoint!!!

 

Word to the wise!!!!!! DO NOT PLACE CAN OF REFRIGERANT IN HOT WATER. The pressure in the can will exceed its rupture disc rating on the can and EXPLODE. This is not gonna be a pretty picture when the can lets go and sprays hot water and liquid frostbite at the same time. I have had mucho experience since I am an A/C contractor and have seen some pretty bad accidents with techs trying to hurry up a charge and pull stuff like that.

With that being said, the water hose misting action on the condenser coil is a great trick to drop head pressure. Also open your windows and put fan on hight while charging, (this keeps a constant load on the evaporator). Always install what sticker said as far a charge weight, and make sure you have pulled a THOROUGH vacuum since you blew out everything with a compressor, (gotta think about how much water mist was travelling with compressed air, water and refrigerant = acid which will put you right back to where you started this endeavor).


Good Luck


Gary

 

Hey scuzman. Acura tech line recomended denatured alcohol as a flushing solution for lines condenser and such. Ive done this a couple of times after compressors self destruct. It seems to work well for washing out ground up aluminum and desicant. What do you use or recomend. Also do you think 30 to 40 min vac is adequate time on a small 1.5 lb system or should I go longer? I havent had any problems so far but Im always open to a professional opinion.

 

Denatured alcohol in a pressurized flushing can is an excellent flush. The pressure is still compressed air but the alcohol absorbs the water in the compressed air. The best way to achieve a no moisture in system status is to pull a 45 micron vacuum ( micron gauge on lineset to vacuum pump) is the ONLY way. A good shop can do this if the tech is competent with correct tools (micron gauge). As far as a length of time for vacuum, 1.5 hrs on a TIGHT system should get you real close.

The correct tool for the correct finish is always best.

Gary

 

Thanks for the input Gary..we just bought a new machine for 134 and its a pretty nice rig. It has an automatic function so you can program what you want to do hit start and go do something else for a while. Sometimes I hate workin Flat Rate because the job suffers in the essence of time. Maybe this thing will help remedy some of that. Thanks again David

 

Lt.

Glad I could be of assistance. That is what this place is all about. I can't say thanks enough to all of those who have helped me with the toe stumpers I have come across since I bought my truck. Its cool to have a site where there is so many members with such varying knowledge on so many things.


Gary

 

Why is it when someone needs info on this board people have to come on here and say there a expert in a field and what your doing is wrong. I posted the info i found to be true about these a/c systems after reading multiple guess answers from posts about this subject. I post up a solution for the average joe to try and fix there own system ,then all a sudden the a/c gurus come out from the wood work. Freon cans dont explode from hot water. 25psi vaccum is plenty of vaccum. dont worry about humidity from compressed air flushing your lines ,its a small amount and wont matter.
My suggestions for this repair was for the average person not a A/C contractor or qualified, certified, or even chicken fried expert.

 

Actually there IS an orifice tube. The unfortunate thing about it is is is not accessible. If you look on the right fender, right about where the Condenser line comes out from behind the battery box, you will see a crimp in the line. Sometimes you can't see the crimp because of insulation on the line at that location. There's your orifice tub. Dunno why Dodge designed it that way, but you you have to replace the orifice tube you must replace the entire line.

Chris

 

Stamey, Yea thats a liquid line. or what they call it. Or at least thats what the parts experts at vatozone call it.

 

Flashpoint,
I did not make the comments I did with intentions to slam anything you said. I have been in the air conditioning business for over 25 years. I began while in college, working for engineering firms, designing every type of system imaginable, ie. refrigeration, filtration, air moving, etc....

I also have 20+ years as a mechanical/refrigeration contractor and currently own my own LICENSED mechanical contracting business.

What I said about moisture in the system turning to acid is a FACT. Moisture will react with the refrigerant and refrigeration oil to form acid which will destroy metal components in the system. Did you ever wonder why they install dessicant dryers on EVERY refrigeration system, be it molecular sieve types on your home refrigerator, or the one that is located on your home A/C system. Every system that my Techs open up for repairs, get a new liquid line dryer installed. In the case of a burn-out or highly acid system (because some tech before mine did not install said dryer), we install a suction line dryer with high acid removal capacity, along with Acid Away additive.

Next point you made was refrigerant cans "do not explode". WRONG BIG TIME. Take a close look at any factory container used to ship refrigerant such as 134a, r-22, r-12, r-502 and other high pressure refrigerants. EACH and EVERY container have a rupture disc manufactured into the can. This is to allow a somewhat controlled explosion should the refrigerant become overheated (and expand in its gaseous state). Next, I can let you talk to a tech I know (does not work for me), who while charging a friend's Suburban A/C system, placed a can of 134a in a pan containing 155-160 degree water, to make the charge take faster. He ended up in the emergency room with 2nd degree burns on his face and a nasty cut on his forehead where the can rocketed out of the pan and whacked him.

Point I would like to make is, I do not comment very often on things to which my knowledge is low or nil, but on issues that I have knowledge, I will chime in, especially when it relates to safety issues !!!

I appreciate your right to comment, as well as everyone else.



Gary