Brake drum removal hint: It really DOES work!
05-25-2004, 09:27 PM
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Brake drum removal hint: It really DOES work!
Did a brake job on my truck today. Rotors and pads up front went easy. Decided I should check the rear drums while I was at it.
Pulled the rear wheels off and saw that the drums still had the push clips on them from factory assembly so I knew they had never been off before. "OH NO" I thought, 63,000 miles with 4 Minnesota salt filled winters. I thought "Boy are these drums going to come off hard."
Then I remembered a hint I read on the ol' DTR.
I removed the assembly clips, removed all the lug nuts, (kept one on each side just far enough to catch all the threads, started the truck, put it in reverse, gave it just a little throttle, and STABBED the brakes.
I heard a CLINK and I said "No way could it be that easy."
I shut the truck off, got out and removed the last two lug nuts, the drums had popped out and I slid them right off.
In the past, I have done the "get a bigger hammer" and the "grab the torch". I now have the right way and I don't even remember who to thank.
So a big THANK YOU to everyone that posts these great tips for all the rest of us to learn from. I hope I can return the favor someday!
Pulled the rear wheels off and saw that the drums still had the push clips on them from factory assembly so I knew they had never been off before. "OH NO" I thought, 63,000 miles with 4 Minnesota salt filled winters. I thought "Boy are these drums going to come off hard."
Then I remembered a hint I read on the ol' DTR.
I removed the assembly clips, removed all the lug nuts, (kept one on each side just far enough to catch all the threads, started the truck, put it in reverse, gave it just a little throttle, and STABBED the brakes.
I heard a CLINK and I said "No way could it be that easy."
I shut the truck off, got out and removed the last two lug nuts, the drums had popped out and I slid them right off.
In the past, I have done the "get a bigger hammer" and the "grab the torch". I now have the right way and I don't even remember who to thank.
So a big THANK YOU to everyone that posts these great tips for all the rest of us to learn from. I hope I can return the favor someday!
05-26-2004, 05:51 AM
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Originally posted by Lil Dog
but get good jack stands I suppose..
but get good jack stands I suppose..
05-26-2004, 09:11 AM
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Originally posted by Lil Dog
but get good jack stands I suppose..
but get good jack stands I suppose..
The bolts have to be removed, not just loosened in order to remove any clips and remove the wheel. Doing the stomp on the brakes with loose lugs and the wheel on can damage the rim or stud threads.
05-26-2004, 09:35 AM
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Originally posted by infidel
The bolts have to be removed, not just loosened in order to remove any clips and remove the wheel. Doing the stomp on the brakes with loose lugs and the wheel on can damage the rim or stud threads.
The bolts have to be removed, not just loosened in order to remove any clips and remove the wheel. Doing the stomp on the brakes with loose lugs and the wheel on can damage the rim or stud threads.
Absolutely Right!! I should have made that clear in the first place. I removed the lug nuts and wheels, then reinstalled one lug nut loosely just to "catch" the drum.
05-28-2004, 09:41 PM
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Never heard of doing it that way ... but I am sure gonna give it a try on the next brake job that comes in to the shop !!!
We had a guy in an old Monte Carlo come in the other day and I swear, the groove that was worn into his rear drum was at least 1/4" to 3/8" deep.
I was watching to see just how big a hammer the guy was gonna grab for that job
.
Thanks for the tip,
PISTOL
We had a guy in an old Monte Carlo come in the other day and I swear, the groove that was worn into his rear drum was at least 1/4" to 3/8" deep.
I was watching to see just how big a hammer the guy was gonna grab for that job
.Thanks for the tip,
PISTOL
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09-10-2006, 12:14 PM
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You guys are freakin' awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If I knew who the first guy was to come up with this idea, I'd send him a check!!
I've got nearly 200,000 on my 2000 Dodge Ram and never had the rear drums off. Everything is working good, but I figure with that many miles I needed to at least look. I've tried several times to get the drums off in the past and given up - beat on them, tried the torch, even tried jerry-rigging some clamps to make a wheel puller. Saw this and had them off in less than a minute!!!!
Thanks a ton guys!!!
I've got nearly 200,000 on my 2000 Dodge Ram and never had the rear drums off. Everything is working good, but I figure with that many miles I needed to at least look. I've tried several times to get the drums off in the past and given up - beat on them, tried the torch, even tried jerry-rigging some clamps to make a wheel puller. Saw this and had them off in less than a minute!!!!
Thanks a ton guys!!!
09-10-2006, 12:32 PM
#9
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You guys are freakin' awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If I knew who the first guy was to come up with this idea, I'd send him a check!!
I've got nearly 200,000 on my 2000 Dodge Ram and never had the rear drums off. Everything is working good, but I figure with that many miles I needed to at least look. I've tried several times to get the drums off in the past and given up - beat on them, tried the torch, even tried jerry-rigging some clamps to make a wheel puller. Saw this and had them off in less than a minute!!!!
Thanks a ton guys!!!
I've got nearly 200,000 on my 2000 Dodge Ram and never had the rear drums off. Everything is working good, but I figure with that many miles I needed to at least look. I've tried several times to get the drums off in the past and given up - beat on them, tried the torch, even tried jerry-rigging some clamps to make a wheel puller. Saw this and had them off in less than a minute!!!!
Thanks a ton guys!!!
09-10-2006, 03:05 PM
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I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.
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09-11-2006, 02:54 PM
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PM me and I'll give you my address.
I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.
I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.
09-11-2006, 07:31 PM
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PM me and I'll give you my address.
I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.
I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.
09-12-2006, 03:23 PM
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PM me and I'll give you my address.
I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.
I was the first to post it here but admit I learned of the trick at least forty years ago from an old timer.
He also told me of the easy way to remove tapered shafts like ball joints have. Hit the part the shaft goes into on opposite sides at the same time with a hammer in each hand, pops right out.