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Brake drum removal hint: It really DOES work!

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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #31  
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by infidel
Don't know that one (I think).
Here's the one for if you forget to put the washer gasket back on your drain plug after an oil change and it leaks:
Duct tape, or whatever it takes, a vacuum cleaner hose up to your oil fill, plug the blow by. Turn the vacuum cleaner on. No oil will come out when you remove the drain plug to install the gasket and none will be sucked into the vacuum.
Maybe I gave you too much credit a day ago---Why wouldn't it suck all the oil up the minute you removed the plug from the oil pan?? You just wanna see somebody do it and ruin the wife's new vacuum---don't you!!
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #32  
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by Shovelhead
No funnel?
Hold the screwdriver with the tip in the center of the oil fill opening and pour the oil down the screwdriver shaft.
Just make sure you clean the screwdriver first!!
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #33  
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From: Yakima, Washington
The pilot bearing trick also works very well with a bolt or punch and wet toilet paper in place of the grease. Same idea but a little less mess.
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by CSAGrey1
The pilot bearing trick also works very well with a bolt or punch and wet toilet paper in place of the grease. Same idea but a little less mess.
How do you get the TP wet??
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Old Sep 14, 2006 | 04:48 PM
  #35  
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From: Yakima, Washington
That's the handy part!!
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #36  
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From: Robins AFB
So how many people have actually gotten the brake trick to work? I just went out and tried this and it didn't do anything. I tried reverse and forward and it didn't make any difference. I pushed on the brakes as fast and as hard as I could from different speeds and nothing. However, I should note that it was really obvious that the rear brakes do next to nothing because when you use the brake peddle the rear axle would hardly slow at all, in fact you could just keep it in gear with the brakes down and still see the axle turning. I also tried using the E-brake, and that was much more effective in stopping the axle. But this still didn't break the rear drums loose. Am I doing something wrong or does this trick just not work?

I should also ask what he means by stab, does this mean push and hold as fast and as hard as possible or to push as hard and as quickly as possible then release the peddle?

Thanks,
Brad
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:27 PM
  #37  
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Strong05,
Don't feel bad.I couldn't get this trick to work for me either.Actually the driver's side drum came off easy but the pass side would not come off.I had my grandson go forwards and backwards and slam on the brakes and no luck.I finally started squirting WD-40 around the inside edge of the drum where it goes against the axle hub and beating on it with a heavy hammer.Next I heated it up with a torch and no luck.I was afraid to put too much heat on it ,I didn't want to warp the drum. I finally got it loose by using WD-40 and beating it with the hammer.I'll bet I spent a good 2 hrs just getting that drum off.Whew!I think I spent more time getting the drum off than I did installing the GM wheel cyl.This is the only shortcut of Infidel's that I have used that didn't work as expected.God only knows when that drum had been off the last time.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:31 PM
  #38  
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From: Akron, Ohio
I forgot to add that I put a good coat of never-seize on both axle hubs so the next time those drums should come off easy.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:06 PM
  #39  
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From: Robins AFB
Thanks leprechaun for the quick response!

I finally got the passenger side off, but not the drivers side... looks like I will probably be in a similar situation to yours. Good to know I'm not the only one that hasn't been able to get this to work.

Its a good thing I looked into this because the passenger slave cylinder is seaping ever so slightly.

Brad
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #40  
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by leprechaun
Strong05,
Don't feel bad.I couldn't get this trick to work for me either.Actually the driver's side drum came off easy but the pass side would not come off.I had my grandson go forwards and backwards and slam on the brakes and no luck.I finally started squirting WD-40 around the inside edge of the drum where it goes against the axle hub and beating on it with a heavy hammer.Next I heated it up with a torch and no luck.I was afraid to put too much heat on it ,I didn't want to warp the drum. I finally got it loose by using WD-40 and beating it with the hammer.I'll bet I spent a good 2 hrs just getting that drum off.Whew!I think I spent more time getting the drum off than I did installing the GM wheel cyl.This is the only shortcut of Infidel's that I have used that didn't work as expected.God only knows when that drum had been off the last time.
don't worry about too much heat, just heat it evenly ......red if needed. been there done that
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:46 PM
  #41  
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From: Akron, Ohio
Strong05,
Are you aware of the GM 1 ton wheel cyl upgrade for your rear brakes?If you have one leaking anyway you might as well go to the bigger bore GM 1 ton wheel cyl-NAPA part #37337.It's a direct replacement and will give you better braking.This is one of the many upgrades that Infidel has passed on to this forum.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #42  
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From: Akron, Ohio
Thanks Johnh, that's good to know!
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:12 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 12valve@heart
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong (and I've never personally tried this although I plan to very soon) but my recollection is that you find a bolt that snuggly fits into the pilot bearing, fill the pilot bearing with gun grease, insert bolt to pack the grease in there, hit the bolt head with a hammer and the grease will force the pilot bearing out from the back side.
believe it or not bread works better than grease ever will, and when your done there is a wad of bread in the pilot hole that cleans out easier than the grease. I always found that more grease would squirt out around the bolt/input shaft than stayed in the hole...with bread it stays in there, takes about a slice and a half.

Heres another one use a candle to free up siezed bolts, I'm too lazy to type it out again so I'll post the link to my thread

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=184388
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 12:26 AM
  #44  
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From: Robins AFB
Originally Posted by leprechaun
Strong05,
Are you aware of the GM 1 ton wheel cyl upgrade for your rear brakes?If you have one leaking anyway you might as well go to the bigger bore GM 1 ton wheel cyl-NAPA part #37337.It's a direct replacement and will give you better braking.This is one of the many upgrades that Infidel has passed on to this forum.
Sure have! That seems to be pretty popular on here. I def plan to do that now.

Thanks again everyone for the quick responses!

Brad
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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 06:22 AM
  #45  
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From: tennessee
in my 40 years in the business i have used all of the above but the candle on a frozen bolt. so i guess one doesnt get too old to learn. ps they all worked for this old man when special tools failed
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