gwhammy

If you put the nut back on you will be two blocked. Maybe put some washers under the heads of the bolts on the puller. That would give more room on threads. I've only done this once but watched it done several times. Maybe someone off of here lives close to you and can help you.

billmac

I'm using a Blue Chip Diesel gear puller. I did a search on another website and a guy posted on there that he had to use a small torch to heat the gear so that it would come off. I've torqued on my puller so much I'm afraid that I've probably stretched and/or twisted the puller bolts.

billmac

The pump is bolted to the case except that I have now removed the two bolts that attach the pump support bracket to the block. Yes, I rotated the engine using the alternator nut until the keyway was at the 12 o'clock position. I've done everything by the book up to this point.

PChouinard

I'd say remove the bolts from the case and see if the pump comes out. Leave the puller in the gear so you can see if there is any movement while you pull the pump. I can't belive a tapered shaft can get that stuck in a lubricated geartrain.. Good luck man, sucks to have your truck ripped apart.

duner

almost sounds like your warping the gear. if there's only two threads left on the puller bolts then something had to have moved. if it wasn't the shaft it was the gear, or they're the wrong bolts. any way to post some pics?

nickg

Just to make sure you did remove all the bolts/nuts holding the VP to the timing cover? if they are still tight I dont think there is enough room to pull the gear forward. if the pump nuts are loose there will be enough room to push the shaft(pump) off of the gear. Its been a while since I did mine and I believe it did not break loose till I loosened off the pump, and I think I may even have given it a love tap with a hammer

DAR IN NEVADA

I agree with the last post.Ive done many of these pump and I remove all pump mounting bolts before using the gear puller.This way it should pull the gear off the shaft and will push the pump out of the cover. Try that and keep us posted.

Dario

huntman509

i have done hundreds of these in the last 10 or 11 years, i use a puller with a push bolt, sometimes if the truck is chipped the gear really gets stuck on there, remove all 4 nuts and bolt or bolts from mounting bracket, position key way any where from the 9 o clock position to the 3 o clock position, use a mirror and a flash light to make sure of key way position, remove nut, install puller, pull gear and then remove pump, i have bent my bolts by cranking down on the push bolt, it should pop when it comes loose

1-5-3-6-2-4

what was the outcome??? updates?

PChouinard

R U O K? Did you get the thing out or what?

billmac

Yeah, I got the thing out. One big problem - I pulled the timing case too far and popped two puckers in the timing cover. One was at the top and one along the drivers side. I didn't find this until I had taken the truck for a test run. Obviously there was an accumulation of oil on the front of the motor- up high as well was underneath. At first I thought perhaps the "o" ring on the VP44 shaft was leaking but then I discovered the timing cover. The truck runs great. I had cleared the P0216 code prior to the install. I re-checked for codes after I drove it and there were none. I assume that my VP44 install is good to go.

Anyway, I decided that I would replace the timing cover myself. I went to Cummins Southern Plaines here in Fort Worth, bought a new cover which came with a crank seal already installed. Problem was it didn't have the seal pilot/installer with it. I bought a seal kit, p/n 3804899 just so that I could get the seal pilot/installer piece. I din't mind too much spending the extra $40 so that I could have an extra seal in case I messed up the first one during the install.

Due to the cold, rainey weather here as of late, I didn't start on the project until Sunday afternoon. Using the TST instructions for their KDP kit, I finally got the fan/hub assembly out yesterday. I had wanted to remove the nut on the viscous fan drive but I couldn't budge it despite reading many threads on how to get it loose. I finally gave up and took the whole thing out. After this was done, I was looking at the timing cover when I noticed a partial half moon shaped groove worn into the cover. One end of the groove is deeper, maybe 1/24 to 1/16 of an inch. See my other thread on this problem and what could have caused it.

Anyway, bottom line, I've about had it with this project. I'm going to call a local shop the has a certified Cummins diesel mechanic and have my truck towed over to his shop. I called the guy yesterday afternoon and explained my situation and he said to bring it over as is. Their labor rate is $89 per hour. The only thing he said that bothered me was that it would probably take one day to do the cover r&r and put everything back together. That seems a little long to me. I'm sure that the Cummins place could do it quicker but the problem with them is sometimes they are so busy you have to leave your truck there and they will get to it when they can. I found this out when I called them last week.

I'm 63 years old and this is just about too much physical and emotional effort for me. I suppose there is a silver lining in damaging the cover - I can have the dowel pin and case bolts checked out.

LeeRT

AlpineRAM

For the IP all bolts are necessary.
If you broke one, use either vise grips or other means to get it out and use a new bolt. Skimping on this will only lead to troubles down the road.

LeeRT