24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Working on VP44 Removal - Question?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #1  
billmac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Central Texas
Working on VP44 Removal - Question?

I'm trying to separate the vp44 shaft from the gear housing. My question is how do you know when it's done? I cranked on it awhile using a Blue Chip gear puller and decided to stop because I haven't heard a pop or anything to indicate that it's free. Someone I know at a diesel shop that works on the CTD told me that when the gear comes loose from the pump shaft, the gear puller should be loose and not tight any more. I'm beginning to wonder about that bit of advice. I cranked on the puller that I have untill I began to worry about breaking a bolt or dislodging the timing case, so I quit. I would appreciate any suggestions.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #2  
gwhammy's Avatar
Registered User
20 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 734
Likes: 0
From: NE,Missouri
I used a blue point puller,two bolts on circular puller that pushes against the shaft. It worked slick. Tighten the bolts down and the gear pops right off. I think I've heard people using steering wheel pullers too.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #3  
billmac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Central Texas
Originally Posted by gwhammy
I used a blue point puller,two bolts on circular puller that pushes against the shaft. It worked slick. Tighten the bolts down and the gear pops right off. I think I've heard people using steering wheel pullers too.
Yeah I know! But, my question is how can you tell when the gear pops off? What's different than when you started when the gear is free?
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 05:27 PM
  #4  
PChouinard's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 630
Likes: 1
From: Az
Double double check that you have the bolt removed from the bottom of the pump that connects it to the bracket thats mounted to the block and vac pump. If you keep wrenching on that puller and that bolt is still in there, it's gonna cost you some kind of aggrevation. Ask me how i know..
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #5  
bnold's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 0
From: Dallas area
If you are talking about popping the gear off the pump some are failry easy and others require some muscle... Mine was a bear (rephrase.. my 1st out of 4 was a bear ) I thought I was going to strip the bolts going into the gear.. Actually stopped for a sec.. went back and laid into it.. then POW.. she broke loose and I though I broke something... Just the gear loose...

So by what you are saying... keep cranking and she will pop
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #6  
billmac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Central Texas
Originally Posted by PChouinard
Double double check that you have the bolt removed from the bottom of the pump that connects it to the bracket thats mounted to the block and vac pump. If you keep wrenching on that puller and that bolt is still in there, it's gonna cost you some kind of aggrevation. Ask me how i know..
I followed the pump removal directions in my Chrysler service manual. They said to remove the nut and washer; attach a gear puller and pop the gear loose - don't pull to far or you might damage the gear housing; remove the two bolts on the pump support bracket and finally remove the four bolts holding the pump on. Then remove the pump. That's what I was trying to do.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 05:58 PM
  #7  
billmac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Central Texas
Originally Posted by bnold
If you are talking about popping the gear off the pump some are failry easy and others require some muscle... Mine was a bear (rephrase.. my 1st out of 4 was a bear ) I thought I was going to strip the bolts going into the gear.. Actually stopped for a sec.. went back and laid into it.. then POW.. she broke loose and I though I broke something... Just the gear loose...

So by what you are saying... keep cranking and she will pop
I torqued my gear puller bolts all the way down to the where the last two threads were showing. The gear is actually only about a quarter of an inch from the housing cover. I gave up and removed the puller. I can't see the last two or three threads on the the pump shaft so it looks like the gear housing has moved. Anyway I have just about decided to go ahead and remove the pump and hope for the best.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #8  
cowboy2526's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Godley, Texas
When i did mine i didnt even have to use a puller it just slipped right out. I would double check the bolts make sure they are all out.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 06:25 PM
  #9  
bnold's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 0
From: Dallas area
If the gear is off the taper than you are done... pull the pump out the back
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 08:42 PM
  #10  
billmac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Central Texas
Originally Posted by bnold
If the gear is off the taper than you are done... pull the pump out the back
Well, it looks to me like it's off the taper - problem is, I was told that when the gear was free from the pump shaft, the shaft would move back and forth. That will only work if the pump is not bolted to the pump case; otherwise there won't be any movement. I'm concerned now that I have possibly distorted the timing case by torquing the gear puller too much.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 08:57 PM
  #11  
bnold's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,184
Likes: 0
From: Dallas area
The gear and the puller still bolted together should move around in the case some... The shaft of the pump will not move unless it is unbolted (4 bolts) from the back of the timing case and the 1 bolt connecting it to the block on the bottom of the pump... Highly doubt you distorted the timing case
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #12  
1-5-3-6-2-4's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 0
From: Okotoks AB
do not do not DO NOT drop the keyway into the geartrain. was it at 12oclock before you started pulling on the gear?

Ok, lets recap for a sec. the pump should still be fully bolted to the gear case. pull the oil filler. find the keyway on the shaft. turn engine until its at 12oclock. install puller. turn puller until taper lets go. the gear will be loose in the gear case even with the puller attached. it will be obvious. Try not to skip the gear teeth out of mesh.

mine came off fairly easily. with a pop though.

any updates?
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 09:53 PM
  #13  
billmac's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 190
Likes: 0
From: North Central Texas
Originally Posted by bnold
The gear and the puller still bolted together should move around in the case some... The shaft of the pump will not move unless it is unbolted (4 bolts) from the back of the timing case and the 1 bolt connecting it to the block on the bottom of the pump... Highly doubt you distorted the timing case
Well, I guess that I still have a problem because I have no movement in the case with the gear and puller still bolted together. So, apparently the gear has not popped loose. I guess what I can do is put the nut back on the pump shaft and thread it up against the pump gear then put the gear puller back on and see if I can pop the gear loose. I'll have to do it this way because as I said before I had the gear puller threaded almost all the way in to the gear and the gear is now less than 1/4 th of an inch from the timing cover.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 11:17 PM
  #14  
1-5-3-6-2-4's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 0
From: Okotoks AB
something doesn't sound right. I'd recommend against putting the nut back on to make the pull/


what kind of puller are you useing? maybe not configured quite right? my little 2 bolt puller i got from industrial injection has done half dozen or so vp pulls quick and easy. there is no center bolt.
Reply
Old Mar 5, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #15  
1-5-3-6-2-4's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,142
Likes: 0
From: Okotoks AB
like this. works great. the shaft noses against the center of the plate. 2 metric bolts pull the gear back, much like the blue point one gwhammy described. it should be a very easy pull.

Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:15 AM.