Working on VP44 Removal - Question?
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Working on VP44 Removal - Question?
I'm trying to separate the vp44 shaft from the gear housing. My question is how do you know when it's done? I cranked on it awhile using a Blue Chip gear puller and decided to stop because I haven't heard a pop or anything to indicate that it's free. Someone I know at a diesel shop that works on the CTD told me that when the gear comes loose from the pump shaft, the gear puller should be loose and not tight any more. I'm beginning to wonder about that bit of advice. I cranked on the puller that I have untill I began to worry about breaking a bolt or dislodging the timing case, so I quit. I would appreciate any suggestions.
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I used a blue point puller,two bolts on circular puller that pushes against the shaft. It worked slick. Tighten the bolts down and the gear pops right off. I think I've heard people using steering wheel pullers too.
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Yeah I know! But, my question is how can you tell when the gear pops off? What's different than when you started when the gear is free?
#4
Double double check that you have the bolt removed from the bottom of the pump that connects it to the bracket thats mounted to the block and vac pump. If you keep wrenching on that puller and that bolt is still in there, it's gonna cost you some kind of aggrevation. Ask me how i know..
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If you are talking about popping the gear off the pump some are failry easy and others require some muscle... Mine was a bear (rephrase.. my 1st out of 4 was a bear ) I thought I was going to strip the bolts going into the gear.. Actually stopped for a sec.. went back and laid into it.. then POW.. she broke loose and I though I broke something... Just the gear loose...
So by what you are saying... keep cranking and she will pop
So by what you are saying... keep cranking and she will pop
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Double double check that you have the bolt removed from the bottom of the pump that connects it to the bracket thats mounted to the block and vac pump. If you keep wrenching on that puller and that bolt is still in there, it's gonna cost you some kind of aggrevation. Ask me how i know..
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If you are talking about popping the gear off the pump some are failry easy and others require some muscle... Mine was a bear (rephrase.. my 1st out of 4 was a bear ) I thought I was going to strip the bolts going into the gear.. Actually stopped for a sec.. went back and laid into it.. then POW.. she broke loose and I though I broke something... Just the gear loose...
So by what you are saying... keep cranking and she will pop
So by what you are saying... keep cranking and she will pop
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Well, it looks to me like it's off the taper - problem is, I was told that when the gear was free from the pump shaft, the shaft would move back and forth. That will only work if the pump is not bolted to the pump case; otherwise there won't be any movement. I'm concerned now that I have possibly distorted the timing case by torquing the gear puller too much.
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The gear and the puller still bolted together should move around in the case some... The shaft of the pump will not move unless it is unbolted (4 bolts) from the back of the timing case and the 1 bolt connecting it to the block on the bottom of the pump... Highly doubt you distorted the timing case
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do not do not DO NOT drop the keyway into the geartrain. was it at 12oclock before you started pulling on the gear?
Ok, lets recap for a sec. the pump should still be fully bolted to the gear case. pull the oil filler. find the keyway on the shaft. turn engine until its at 12oclock. install puller. turn puller until taper lets go. the gear will be loose in the gear case even with the puller attached. it will be obvious. Try not to skip the gear teeth out of mesh.
mine came off fairly easily. with a pop though.
any updates?
Ok, lets recap for a sec. the pump should still be fully bolted to the gear case. pull the oil filler. find the keyway on the shaft. turn engine until its at 12oclock. install puller. turn puller until taper lets go. the gear will be loose in the gear case even with the puller attached. it will be obvious. Try not to skip the gear teeth out of mesh.
mine came off fairly easily. with a pop though.
any updates?
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The gear and the puller still bolted together should move around in the case some... The shaft of the pump will not move unless it is unbolted (4 bolts) from the back of the timing case and the 1 bolt connecting it to the block on the bottom of the pump... Highly doubt you distorted the timing case
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something doesn't sound right. I'd recommend against putting the nut back on to make the pull/
what kind of puller are you useing? maybe not configured quite right? my little 2 bolt puller i got from industrial injection has done half dozen or so vp pulls quick and easy. there is no center bolt.
what kind of puller are you useing? maybe not configured quite right? my little 2 bolt puller i got from industrial injection has done half dozen or so vp pulls quick and easy. there is no center bolt.
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like this. works great. the shaft noses against the center of the plate. 2 metric bolts pull the gear back, much like the blue point one gwhammy described. it should be a very easy pull.