Not such a bad job - about 1 1/2 hr. But the nuts were really tough to break loose- a lot more than 18flbs . Hard to believe 18flbs would be tight enough to keep them from losening. I snugged them about double. I wonder if that will be a problem?

 

I have yet to see those nuts anywhere near 18 ft/lbs. That being said, I use a torque wrench, and go to 20 ft/lbs when doing valvesets. I have yet to have them back off, so I suppose what the factory recommends is good.
When all else fails, just go by the manual. That way, if something goes wrong, even though it sucks, you know that you did it right.

Now, that being said, manuals are NOT fail safe. they have their little glitches, misprints, missing pages, ideas lost in translation, etc. Another trick with the valve set, is to use a 6 in/lb torque wrench when setting lash, go to your say .010" + 6 in/lb, then tighten the jam nut. This ensures you get a dead even set, right across the board. This is a method used on the bigger cummins engines, and I use it for all diesel valve work. It makes it as close to idiot proof as it can be, while I am still involved with the project....

Anyway, hopefully the set gave you some better breathing.

 

ive been searchin for an hour...........can anybody link me to the procedure to adjust my valves on my 2000? I would like to do it as i replace the injectors soon.
thanks

 

Try this https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

 

bibboyky - great link - thanks.

 

24v Service Manual says adjustment is not needed till 150,000 miles. This is amazingly true. I have not seen or heard of any close to needing adjustments before then! Many at 150,000 miles have been right on! Worth checking them if your in there anyway

RJ