Uphill Performance
Uphill Performance
I am puzzled. I have always thought/assumed that one of the bonuses of a diesel truck was the torque the engine provides. Most resently in my travels I have been spending alot of time up and down the West Virginia TP and I am traveling light. My truck is stock with a 4 spd auto and up hills it never can do better than 60 to 62 MPH. Is something wrong with the engine or transmission or am I expecting too much out of a Dodge in its original configuration?
NOTE
The only major mechanical work on the truck has been a tran rebuild @ 128K with a HD-TC installed, new Tran lub. manifold and an Amsoil dual filter system. I am not much for gimics to and on to vehicles unless someone can explain the engineering behind it. I guess I think if the engineers at Dodge or where-ever screwed up the engineering of a truck why should I and more cars to their train wreck!!
Are temp gages for the transmission fluid and/or engine oil of value? Who makes good ones?
NOTE
The only major mechanical work on the truck has been a tran rebuild @ 128K with a HD-TC installed, new Tran lub. manifold and an Amsoil dual filter system. I am not much for gimics to and on to vehicles unless someone can explain the engineering behind it. I guess I think if the engineers at Dodge or where-ever screwed up the engineering of a truck why should I and more cars to their train wreck!!
Are temp gages for the transmission fluid and/or engine oil of value? Who makes good ones?
Well we got the make (dodge), now if we could get the model and year we can start. Either way it sounds like something is wrong. I know my 01 will cruise the Rockies without so much as thinking of coming out of lockup. 75+ easily. Were you towing when this occured?
Well I'm running a 2002 SO engine stock. It weighs around 7,900# roughly.
I can set the cruise for 70 MPH and travel up a 7% grade and never lose 70 MPH... I have been known to drop the hammer on the throttle and wind it up to 80 MPH on the same grade to pass uphill... It does take a bit of time to build up but it will do it!
I can set the cruise for 70 MPH and travel up a 7% grade and never lose 70 MPH... I have been known to drop the hammer on the throttle and wind it up to 80 MPH on the same grade to pass uphill... It does take a bit of time to build up but it will do it!
To "J Body", "duner", and "Mopar1973man" thank you for your responces. As far as answering any questions you had a more full description of my truck is; a 1999 dodge 2500 diesel 2WD extended cab, automatic transmission with a 3.73 differential and traveling light for me means no more than 200 puond in the bed and nothing in tow. As far as mechanical work on the engine or drivetrain that has been done to the truck, the bearings between 3rd and 4th gear degenerated at around 125K and I had the transmission rebuilt. The guy who performed the work is the go to guy in our area and his shop cleaned out the transmission, replaced the bearings torque converter and lubrication manifold and a new computer to modify the shifting pattern for improved performance. I picked up the truck second hand and have been running Amsoil lubricants in the drivetrain since it had 42K miles on it. It has only been in the last 16 to 18 months that I have been taking the truck into the hills of WV, most of my driving has been on the flat and I have never really detected any significant problems with the trucks performance. Prior to getting the transmission rebuilt I did drop speed in the hills of WV, sometiimes all the way down to 52 to 55 now I can usually keep the truck at between 60 an 65 and it will kick into passing gear when I want it, but if I am not at 70 to 73 at the bottom of a hill NO WAY will I be at 65 at the top of that hill. If that is the only time I see a problem and it is a fault in the truck how can I or anyone esle test the problem in the flat farm land of OH?? Thanks from Traveler04
First thing I would check is all the rubber boots on the air inlet system. If you have a boost leak it will make your truck a dog. The dealer has a great test tool that allows you to charge the air inlet system and see the wastegate work and tell if your system is leaking boost, that or if you have a boost gauge on your truck you could see it for yourself as you should be able to achieve 18-20 psi stock. Next would be to check easy things like clean air filter, good fuel filter, but most here take care of those things so it's usually not brought up. If your truck is stock you either have 3.55 gears, or 4.10s, 3.7 wasn't available although I wish it were.
Hey you might also check your IAT sensor if your running a Jake brake. Still it might be a good idea to check it... Might be upsetting the fuel ratio...Hmm...
I agree with JBody... I would change all filters (Fuel, Air). Check the boots (There was a message about how to make a tester for pressurizing the system.
Guages would be the best thing to do... (Look who's talking the one without guages! Yea I'm going to do it soon!)
Your boost guage would show a air boot / turbo problem!
I agree with JBody... I would change all filters (Fuel, Air). Check the boots (There was a message about how to make a tester for pressurizing the system.
Guages would be the best thing to do... (Look who's talking the one without guages! Yea I'm going to do it soon!)
Your boost guage would show a air boot / turbo problem!
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I think it would prove worthwhile to check the lift pump and the fuel filter. Also the air filter comes to my mind. If all this checks out OK I'd say look for boost leaks. Maybe you can borrow a boost gauge somewhere and report the results. (If you just have flat lands load it up with a trailer and accelerate- max boost would be interesting)
If possible you should also have your codes read- or try the ignition trick- off-on-off-on 3 times ending with on, not cranking. If codes show up on the odometer write them down- if it says p-done there are no codes.
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
If possible you should also have your codes read- or try the ignition trick- off-on-off-on 3 times ending with on, not cranking. If codes show up on the odometer write them down- if it says p-done there are no codes.
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
Sorry I cant offer much help with the 24valve but it sounds like a problem my dads stock 98 12v w/33inch tires and 3.5x gears could fly up a 14% grade. Now on the other hand my 1986 nissan hard body with 114hp could bairly make a 2% grade at 40mph
To J Body, Mopar1973man, AlpineRam and Captain
Thanks for the good advise. This info will give me a place to start. As far as gauges I want them too (I am an information hog), but I am realizing that I could fill my truck with gauge temp this and pressure that... First things first, get the stock machine working write before I mess with add ons. I stand corrected on the Diff gearing 3.55, 3.73 is in another manufatures diesel truck.
Thanks for the good advise. This info will give me a place to start. As far as gauges I want them too (I am an information hog), but I am realizing that I could fill my truck with gauge temp this and pressure that... First things first, get the stock machine working write before I mess with add ons. I stand corrected on the Diff gearing 3.55, 3.73 is in another manufatures diesel truck.
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Dave88LX
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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