24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Discuss the 24 Valve engine and drivetrain here. No non-drivetrain discussions please. NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Truck Died, Need Some Help Please...

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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 04:39 PM
  #16  
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From: Rockford IL
Mr

Originally Posted by patdaly
DDRP is a good choice for stock replacement.

Unless it is significantly higher, I try and buy from the DTR store......

Check this out:

http://store.dieseltruckresource.com/fadidorepudo.html

And if you happen to think you might need to crack the Injectors alongside the road, buy a cheap 19 MM open end wrench and throw it in the truck. Heck I don't have a 24V and I still carry one, rather have it when my buddy runs out of fuel, yet again.
That is the info I was looking for, I will buy from DTR store if I need the part.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 04:42 PM
  #17  
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Gary,
The schrader valve you see should screw out just like one on an innertube. I'm thinking it's 1/8" iron pipe thread. That's the same as the extensions you get at the auto parts store for your grease gun. You can get a 12" extension and then go to your test gauge.

If it's a different thread take a hose off a hand air pump and thread that fitting in. Pressure will be about 15 lb max. so pressure isn't a big safety issue.

For a permanent solution you can get a "T" fitting to replace the banjo fitting as shown in your picture on the right side and use SS wrapped hose to go into your cab for a gauge.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 04:43 PM
  #18  
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From: Rockford IL
Mr

Originally Posted by phal
Well I cracked them, the wife turned over for about 12 seconds and there was no sign of fuel.




I have rigged a possible way to check the pressure. I have two connectors in the area that you are talking about. Here is a pic:



Ok, If I remove the conector on the left, should I be able to thread a connector of some kind into this?

.....thanks...gary

I plumbed into the left fitting and had ZERO pressure. Is this the wrong port or am I just getting zero pressure from the lift pump? I checked again, the pump buzzes when giving the truck power, so there is a connection to the electrical.

thanks...gary
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:04 PM
  #19  
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From: south of Kansas City 40 miles
Shop manual says the fitting on the left is an overflow valve.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:07 PM
  #20  
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From: Rockford IL
Mr

[QUOTE=D2 Cat;2522982]Gary,
The schrader valve you see should screw out just like one on an innertube. I'm thinking it's 1/8" iron pipe thread. That's the same as the extensions you get at the auto parts store for your grease gun. You can get a 12" extension and then go to your test gauge.

QUOTE]

Well, since I didn't see the above before I posted the last one, you will figure out that I checked the pressure on the wrong port. I checked on the big one to the left. This is the fuel return for the VP, correct? I used a tapered pipe thread on this and it felt correct, I was careful when I tightened it down, so I hope I didn't screw anything up.



Since I got zero pressure on the side I thought I was supposed to check, I got gutsy and just disconnected the one on the right. This fitting is connected to the bottom of the filter housing. I turned on the truck and got nothing out of the line, not a drop.

So, does this mean I have a bad lift pump?


thanks....gary
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #21  
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From: Rockford IL
Mr

Originally Posted by D2 Cat
Shop manual says the fitting on the left is an overflow valve.
Thank you,

Im not getting any flow at the pressure line at all (line on right in pic), so something is going on downstream.

thanks...gary
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 05:50 PM
  #22  
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From: south of Kansas City 40 miles
The open line with no fuel indicates not pressure at the pump. Only other possibility I can think of is your fuel filter OK? Have you installed a fuel filter in a while? Before buying the pump you could replace the filter. Leave the new element dry and see if you get fuel into the filter body.

There are many choices for pumps and may opinions of what's the best. It all depends on your wanting more HP, your willingness to spend $, etc.

I got a relocation kit from Geno's and put my lift pump just in front of the fuel tank. Easy to get to, easy to change, and the pump is pushing fuel not pulling fuel--making it more efficient. Install a ball valve just before the pump and you can make sure you never have to take a fuel bath when servicing the pump in the future.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:14 PM
  #23  
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From: Rockford IL
Mr

Originally Posted by D2 Cat
The open line with no fuel indicates not pressure at the pump. Only other possibility I can think of is your fuel filter OK? Have you installed a fuel filter in a while? Before buying the pump you could replace the filter. Leave the new element dry and see if you get fuel into the filter body.
I installed a new fuel filter before I started testing.

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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 06:56 PM
  #24  
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From: south of Kansas City 40 miles
Then it's lift pump failure.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 04:53 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for the help

I ordered the 1998.5 - 2002 - FASS Direct Dodge Replacement Pump from DTR Performance today.

Thanks to everybody for the diagnostic help!.....gary
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