wyododge

okay here we go.

driving home, no trailer, not hot, 3/4 tank of fuel, averaging about 18 MPG on last 3 tanks, pedal seemed unresponsive, no acceleration, then all of the sudden loss of power, seemed like dead pedal but when I put the clutch pedal in (still rolling down highway) engine died. released clutch engine rolled over and I was able to accelerate a bit. I was able to pul off the road and then she gave up. She cranked over just fine but no start. I opened up the fuel filter in the engine compartment and it seemed as though there was not much fuel in it. That filter only has about 3k on it but will replace it tomorrow. Crawled under and replaced the inline filter at my FASS. Bumped the starter a couple of times to make sure I could hear the FASS running, it was. Pulled the lid off of the filter canister in the engine compartment and bumped the starter, FASS is pumping fuel. Checked for codes with the key, got Pdone then --- ecm done --- pdone then milage, no numerical codes listed (i repeated this twice to make sure I did it correctly). Drained the fuel canister in the engine compartment and bumped the starter five or six times to make sure the system was refilled. Good crank, no start.

Not sure where to go from here. I am saving for a fuel pressure gauge, but after being laid off in January, I have not been able to get one yet.

I am going to try an APPS reset tomorrow, I will try cracking the injectors...

Is it possible to check fuel pressure while cranking if I can get a pressure gauge hooked up somehow?

Should I crack all of the injectors? or is there one that will bleed out all the air (if any)?

Short of calling a tow truck is there anything else you can suggest??

Thanks For all of your help

J BODY

The fass is not impervious to failure. Seen that before. I'd start at the basics, and no codes is a good thing. Button everything up. Bump the starter over to get your 20 sec run time. Push in on the schrader valve test port up at your VP. Verify there is a good stream of fuel (not aireated or spitting bubbles). From there I usually crack #1, #3, #4 injector lines. Now here's where a little ingenuity will help..... Make yourself a "starter switch". I use an old horn button from a 95 earlier Ram pickup, but any two wire push button will do. Remove the starter relay in the PDC and put your "switch" in the two terminals to engage the starter (the two are the one that is the outer most toward the drivers fender, the other is straight across from it.....hope that makes sense, or simply #87 and #30, you'll see those numbers on the relay). This will allow you to crank the engine while observing the fuel flow from the injectors you loosened. Crank in 15 to 20 sec intervals and hope you get fuel. See fuel, tighten the line and it should start to stumble back to life.

wyododge

Okay will do. I have a much easier starter switch though, my 14 year old son, just a coke and a burger and he'll do just about anything!!

I assume that if there is no fuel when injectors are cracked that the VP44 is out??? Or is there something else wrong??

Thanks Again.