Trouble with cold starts
Trouble with cold starts
Hello all,
I havent posted for quite some time, but I have an issue, and am having trouble getting it figured out.
I have a 2001 Dodge 3500 Dually with the S.O. 24 valve Cummins and a manual 5 speed tranny.
My truck will not start in the mornings here in Iowa andit is only getting down to 20 Degrees at night, and it will get much colder.
I have a Pump made by Glacial Diesel, got it from Rich ( nice guy and very helpful).
I had a local shop check my grid heater, and it tested to 800 degrees. no problem there. They say the fuel pump comes on for two seconds then while my " Wait to start light" is running I am loosing fuel pressure, by the time it goes off. SO I bump the ignition and the pump turns back on for like 20 seconds, but my truck still wont start.
Sooooo, I have been plugging it in at night and then it starts just fine. If i plug it in for two hours or even an hour, it will start just fine ,and it will also start during the day, after I have gotten it started in the morning, even if it sits for four hours at a time.
Please give me your thoughts sorry fo the long post.
But I dont know where to go, the shop says it must be the pump, as it is new, and the Diesel performance guy says the pump plugs into the stock ECM, so it runs just like stock......so im lost.
Thanks
Graham
I havent posted for quite some time, but I have an issue, and am having trouble getting it figured out.
I have a 2001 Dodge 3500 Dually with the S.O. 24 valve Cummins and a manual 5 speed tranny.
My truck will not start in the mornings here in Iowa andit is only getting down to 20 Degrees at night, and it will get much colder.
I have a Pump made by Glacial Diesel, got it from Rich ( nice guy and very helpful).
I had a local shop check my grid heater, and it tested to 800 degrees. no problem there. They say the fuel pump comes on for two seconds then while my " Wait to start light" is running I am loosing fuel pressure, by the time it goes off. SO I bump the ignition and the pump turns back on for like 20 seconds, but my truck still wont start.
Sooooo, I have been plugging it in at night and then it starts just fine. If i plug it in for two hours or even an hour, it will start just fine ,and it will also start during the day, after I have gotten it started in the morning, even if it sits for four hours at a time.
Please give me your thoughts sorry fo the long post.
But I dont know where to go, the shop says it must be the pump, as it is new, and the Diesel performance guy says the pump plugs into the stock ECM, so it runs just like stock......so im lost.
Thanks
Graham
I have the same problem!
Most hard starting scenarios are the opposite.... hard to start when warm!
Mine looses prime overnight somehow. Have not been able to fix it and truck runs so well I stopped worrying about it.
Anytime my CTD does not catch right away, I let the 'bumped' fuel pump run for 7 sec. Than try again - Starts right up!! See if this works for you
RJ
Most hard starting scenarios are the opposite.... hard to start when warm!
Mine looses prime overnight somehow. Have not been able to fix it and truck runs so well I stopped worrying about it.
Anytime my CTD does not catch right away, I let the 'bumped' fuel pump run for 7 sec. Than try again - Starts right up!! See if this works for you

RJ
trout,
Do you have a FP gauge? I believe it's normal for the pressure to spike as soon as the key is flipped on and then drop....I know mine does.
Is it just hard to start or really not start at all??
Strange that it "needs" the block heater at those temps. I wonder if this has something to do with the IAT sensor.
Any codes??
Do you have a FP gauge? I believe it's normal for the pressure to spike as soon as the key is flipped on and then drop....I know mine does.
Is it just hard to start or really not start at all??
Strange that it "needs" the block heater at those temps. I wonder if this has something to do with the IAT sensor.
Any codes??
I dont havea FP gauge, The truck wont start at all, i have to physically plug it in to get it to start. How do I check for codes? Then I could tell you if I have any. What is an IAT Sensor?
Graham
Graham
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mine did this/that . It turned out to be injector line number 6 was not tight, and would seap, the prime away, but never make a drip. only enough to get dust on the line. that and I had a small leak on the shut off for the fuel pressure gauge
I had the line feed the injector pump loose. there was just a touch of wet looking dust around the line. I tighten it 3/4 of a turn. Fixed it. It sure didn't look like it was leaking, but must have been just enough to bleed the system back.
Dan
Dan
IAT: Intake Air Temperature
Left side of head just behind and below the rear lift lug.
The leaky line posts above make sense....just don't understand how plugging in the block heater would overcome this......I love a good mystery.
I believe it's 3 key cycles for code retrieval (does that work for the '01 or '02 and up?). Not the most reliable way. Try to get to an OBDII reader.
Taz
Left side of head just behind and below the rear lift lug.
The leaky line posts above make sense....just don't understand how plugging in the block heater would overcome this......I love a good mystery.
I believe it's 3 key cycles for code retrieval (does that work for the '01 or '02 and up?). Not the most reliable way. Try to get to an OBDII reader.
Taz
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
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