I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 with AT. Here is what happened. I towed about 10,000 lbs over a mountain pass here in Colorado and while on the way up had to pull over several times to let the engine cool down. From the tranny perspective everything functioned ok during the pull (although it may have gotten hot - I don't have a tranny temp gage). Next day while hauling the empty trailer it did not want to shift out of 1st into 2nd. If I took it to higher RPM and let off the accelerator it would up shift to what I thought at the time was second but now after talking to a mechanic who drove it we think it’s going to 3rd. A couple of other items to note.

- If you start out in 2nd on the shifter it will go through 1st and if you let off the accelerator it does not up shift (because 3rd is not available when in 2nd on the shifter) telling me 2nd is out.
- If driving in third and you manually shift to second there is NO engine braking (until 1st grabs), possibly telling me my band broke or the servo is not working.
- There are NO CODES when the shop hooked up to it even while driving
- Yes fluid was good, tried changing it (I did forget to clean the filter though)

The mechanic tells me that that 2nd is gone completely. I read an idea to check and see if the servo is broke by using the band adjustment screw to tighten the band manually instead of the servo tighting it (just to eliminate the band possibly being the broke item). I ran this idea past the mechanic and he said that all the band does is provide engine braking and it has nothing to do with engaging the actual 2nd gear to give forward motion. I don't see how this is so - can anyone clarify.

I'm not opposed to digging into things this weekend but don't really know what to look at first. I really don't want to buy a rebuild for 2000 bucks if I can replace a piece. I will be checking this post about every hour tonight so if you have questions please ask and I will respond.

THANKS!

 

In drive-second, the same elements are applied as in manual-second. Therefore, the power flow will be the same, and both gears will be discussed as one in the same. In drive-second, the transmission has proceeded from first gear to its shift point, and is shifting from first gear to second. The second gear shift is obtained by keeping the rear clutch applied and applying the front (kickdown) band. The front band holds the front clutch retainer that is locked to the sun gear driving shell. With the rear clutch still applied, the input is still on the front annulus gear turning it clockwise at engine speed. Now that the front band is holding the sun gear stationary, the annulus rotation causes the front planets to rotate in a clockwise direction. The front carrier is then also made to rotate in a clockwise direction but at a reduced speed. This will transmit the torque to the output shaft, which is directly connected to the front planet carrier. The rear planetary annulus gear will also be turning because it is directly splined to the output shaft. All power flow has occurred in the front planetary gear set during the drive-second stage of operation, and now the over-running clutch, in the rear of the transmission, is disengaged and freewheeling on its hub.

 

Now that's tranny talk. I can understand about 60% of that without looking at a diagram. But thats not your fault its mine (I've never taken apart a tranny before). To ask a simpler question if the kickdown band is broken will it shift to second but not have engine brakeing or will it be unable to go into 2nd at all. I'm trying to figure out what part I might need to replace.

On a seperate note while driving home from the shop I can definetly say 2nd gear is never engaged. While accelerating I go through 3 gears plus overdrive and the jump after 1st is rather large (1st to 3rd)

 

bandit408..... good post bud!

 

Sorry took that right from a powerflow manual on that tranny.

 

There is an anchor and some linkage parts for the second gear band that can fail or bend. The valve body has to come out to replace some of the parts.

 

Also double check the gov pressure solenoid---they were a problem.

 

If you drop the pan, I bet the broken parts are there!

 

Alright tell me if this makes any sense. Today I dropped the pan again and changed the filter this time (I forgot to do that a week ago) and also cleaned the magnet. Noticed that the filter was oem (scary). I've owned it for 30k.
Anyway - that didn't do anything and I really didn't expect it to.

So after that I went after the kickdown band. After taking off the lock nut I started turning in the screw for quite a while. It did not start to get tight until it only had about 1/8 inch exposed past the exterior of the tranny casing. When I put the lock nut back on the screw is actually below the surface of the lock nut (the lock nut being about 1/4 high). Now for the fun part (hopefully not temporarily) it now has 2nd gear. But I feel like it is too good to be true as I do not think the adjustment screw should be that low. Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm guessing they didn't design the adjustment screw to get so low that the lock nut can not catch its thread which is almost where I'm at.

Any thoughts.

Nate

 

Now you can appreciate proper maintaince. You can also see some do not know beans about trannies. As bandit408 tried telling you KD band and adjustment is part of 2nd gear, both for pulling and engine breaking. Now the bad news. When you run out of treads on band adjustment screw, the band is WORN OUT. Futher use will allow metal part of band to wear against the drum surface it locks. There is a longer length strut avaliable, but trust me you are out of band material and rubbing metal to metal. Just like when brake shoes wear out, metal to metal. It is lubricated so you don't hear anything.
Get transmission overhauled.

 

Now you can appreciate proper maintenance........what the old commercial say? you can pay me now....or pay me later!