RSHURGALLA

Has anyone heard of the TC going in and out of lockup due to a Radiator problem. My dealer says the radiator is plugging up but I think this is nonsense like when they told me it was my napa batteries. Is my best option to try the DTR power filter ?

Thanks
Rich

Wolfeman

Rich, the problem is caused by electrical noise spikes. Clean all the grounds, especially the ones under the passenger side battery and the batteries also. Run a new grd from the ECM (firewall behind the airfilter) to the battery. Wrap the grd wire from the alternator to battery with tinfoil. Get some contact cleaner and spray the ECM connector ( the one nearest the driver side) and the connector plugs under the passenger side battery. Bad batteries can cause all sorts of problems before they go completely dead. Order a noise filter from DTT.
Good luck

RSHURGALLA

Thanks Tom I did not think it could be the radiator . The Battery issue was I replaced the batteries with napa batteries and was told that was the problem.
All was well until I had the lift pump replaced under warantee and then the injection pump went about 2 weeks later. They thought the relay for the new in tank pump was the problem but it is happening again and today they said it was a radiator that was plugging up. I guess I will have to fix this myself since the dealer is not having any luck.
Thanks
Rich

coalburner400

Sounds far fetched... but the shift schedule, managed by the TCM, will change depending on many factors. One of them is engine temp. Its possible that the TCM kicks down the gear to increase the fan RPM for better cooling. Do you notice your fan clutch always disengaged - fan noise? Your fan should not be running at that speed anyway. Perhaps the load that the fan draws, and the fact that you're in between gears causes the down shift <shrug>

Not saying the dealer is right, only trying to explain the possibility. I get quite irritated with the schedule for cold weather. It stalls the shifts to keep the lines from freezing. This is a pain when you have traffic ridding up the rear and you're waiting for the next gear.

UPM

I'm having the same problems I've cleaned all the grounds, added the new wire from the ECM to the battery , tested the batterys , and put on the noise filter and I'm still have the same problems. I even did a re boot on the APPS?
What do I do now? The problem has got better but still does it in the mornings mainly.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris.

Mcmopar

Might be time for the apps/tps. Override it with a lockup switch and see if it goes away.

Geico266

I can get mine to do it at will. I have cleaned all grounds, added the noise filter, added a new ground wire. I just turn on the A/C, lights, etc, and it will start doing it. I think now it is the alternator getting weak? When I do all this I pull the system down to 13.4 volts -v- 14.3 normal driving. The voltage regulator should make up the difference right?

I'll try the tin foil trick.

Definately NOT the radiator.

UPM

How do i do it?

FamilyDiesel

I have two things that I think I've noticed that effect my torque converter (TC) lock-up.

1. It seemed to be worse if I had somewhat of a load in the bed (200 - 400 lbs)

2. The speed sensor on my transmission went out about a month ago(forcing me to FINALLY change my rear wheel speed sensor(RWS), b'cause now I had NO speedometer) Ok, now the weird part, I swear that I no longer seem to have a problem with TC lock up going on & off. Infact it seems to maybe lock a little sooner (which I like) and then it stays until slowed way down or braking.
I don't really know if the trans speed sensor should have anything to do with it or not. I bought both the RWS sensor and the trans speed sensor. I put in the RWS sensor, & now the speedometer works again(& no brake/ABS lights anymore). But, I have left out the trans speed sensor cause I like the way the TC lock seems to work now.

Not sure if I will put the trans sensor in as a test, or just be happy with it & return the sensor to get my $26 back from the Dodge dealer.

These are just my opinions & have no idea if there is a reason this would make a differance or not , but I guess you could try unhook the trans speed sensor & see???

Geico266

STOP THE PRESSES! (I've always wanted to yell that. It's the news reporter in me.)

I think I found the (another) ground problem! It's the gound connector from the alternator. It's located on the inboard side of the passengerside battery. The gray "spade" connector!

I tried the tinfoil thing and it seemed to work great. I had to make a 30 mile round trip and when I got there I took the tin foil off just to confirm it had helped. Well, I could not get it to do it again. I used to be able to get the T/C to jump in & out by turning on the A/C & headlights. Well, I could not get it to do it. The only thing I can figure is by wrapping the tin foil on the ground wire from the alternator I "disturbed" the connector.

CHECK YOUR GROUNDS SPADE CONNECTORS! Bend the tabs (just a little) to see if you can get them to make better contact, or better yet just remove them! Butt spice the wire togeather.

GUYS! Don't so anything else to your truck just play with the connectors and see if it helps. You are the beta testers!

coalburner400

Yea right... you just finished flushing your radiator

Geico266

I really think it's those darn connectors! I have not been able to get it to act up for 75 miles, and before I could get it to do it at will.

coalburner400

I think you're right. I've read it elsewhere on the forum when looking for a "No Bus" error.

Mcmopar

Look in my gallery, a few different options.

Geico266

Anyone try to replace the gray connectors? Results?