Signs of the VP44 heading south? :(
#1
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Signs of the VP44 heading south? :(
Is this what a failing VP44 feels like: driving along, suddenly you have no power in 3rd, 4th, 5th gears, especially under load, but the engine is still running, and you can push the pedal all you want but you have no acceleration, no torque, etc. Then, all of a sudden, it will kick in and run like it's supposed to, then start over again, and bucking going uphill. Is that what I'm feeling here? Is it time for the infamous VP44 to take a big bite out of my wallet? 101K, BTW.
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Just a thought. When this happens feel how hot the pump is and feel the fuel tank. I had to install a cooler on my return line. the fuel would get so hot that the pump would go in & out of "limp" mode.
#4
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Sounds more like the apps to me. I do suggest though not running low on fuel, I try to stay above the 1/2 tank mark during the warm weather months. Good Luck!
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pull codes and verify fuel pressure first, then read this
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html
http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html
#6
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bakdoor, same issues here. Check the simple stuff first. Search for APPS reset on her and try that first. Verify LP psi is at least 10psi as really anything less is going to kill your VP. If the APPS reset does not work, then yes, I would agree we'll both be in the market for a new VP. At 186k I think mine is on it's way out as well.
#7
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Was my thought as well! Most just die but a few have stayed terminally ill for a few thousand miles!
Definately check codes first.
P0216 - usually VP-44
P0121 or P0122 - APPS problem
If APPS.....No need to replace entire assembly (Dodge's recommendation). Check HERE first.
1/3 the cost and easier install.
Good Luck!
RJ
Definately check codes first.
P0216 - usually VP-44
P0121 or P0122 - APPS problem
If APPS.....No need to replace entire assembly (Dodge's recommendation). Check HERE first.
1/3 the cost and easier install.
Good Luck!
RJ
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#8
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Well, as it turned out, it was the VP44 taking a dump on me (along with the LP.) Dealer replaced everything, did the in-tank LP conversion (which is supposedly WAAAAYYY better than the stock LP set-up) all for a measly $2700.
So let's recap for 2009:
March: state inspection, new pitman arm, alignment, new exhaust, service diffs, trans, and tranny, and labor: $1600
April: all new hard brake lines and labor: $1100
May: new IP/LP, and labor: $2700.
So a mere $5400 in repairs SO FAR in 2009 to keep this wreck on the road. But I love this truck. Right?
So let's recap for 2009:
March: state inspection, new pitman arm, alignment, new exhaust, service diffs, trans, and tranny, and labor: $1600
April: all new hard brake lines and labor: $1100
May: new IP/LP, and labor: $2700.
So a mere $5400 in repairs SO FAR in 2009 to keep this wreck on the road. But I love this truck. Right?
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Well, as it turned out, it was the VP44 taking a dump on me (along with the LP.) Dealer replaced everything, did the in-tank LP conversion (which is supposedly WAAAAYYY better than the stock LP set-up) all for a measly $2700.
So let's recap for 2009:
March: state inspection, new pitman arm, alignment, new exhaust, service diffs, trans, and tranny, and labor: $1600
April: all new hard brake lines and labor: $1100
May: new IP/LP, and labor: $2700.
So a mere $5400 in repairs SO FAR in 2009 to keep this wreck on the road. But I love this truck. Right?
So let's recap for 2009:
March: state inspection, new pitman arm, alignment, new exhaust, service diffs, trans, and tranny, and labor: $1600
April: all new hard brake lines and labor: $1100
May: new IP/LP, and labor: $2700.
So a mere $5400 in repairs SO FAR in 2009 to keep this wreck on the road. But I love this truck. Right?
They said i needed ball joints, for $1100 but I passed this time.. I did my own differential services last fall and have the parts to service the tranny..
Brian
#12
ouch is right. to me it sounds like its time to learn to work on the truck yourself.
$1100 to replace the brake lines? out of stainless I hope. I think I spend and evening and $50 and did most of the ones from the front to the rear. sure it took some time and effort.
I think my VP is going so sometime the future I'll be learning how to remove and replace.
-dkenny
$1100 to replace the brake lines? out of stainless I hope. I think I spend and evening and $50 and did most of the ones from the front to the rear. sure it took some time and effort.
I think my VP is going so sometime the future I'll be learning how to remove and replace.
-dkenny
#13
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Well, as it turned out, it was the VP44 taking a dump on me (along with the LP.) Dealer replaced everything, did the in-tank LP conversion (which is supposedly WAAAAYYY better than the stock LP set-up) all for a measly $2700.
So let's recap for 2009:
March: state inspection, new pitman arm, alignment, new exhaust, service diffs, trans, and tranny, and labor: $1600
April: all new hard brake lines and labor: $1100
May: new IP/LP, and labor: $2700.
So a mere $5400 in repairs SO FAR in 2009 to keep this wreck on the road. But I love this truck. Right?
So let's recap for 2009:
March: state inspection, new pitman arm, alignment, new exhaust, service diffs, trans, and tranny, and labor: $1600
April: all new hard brake lines and labor: $1100
May: new IP/LP, and labor: $2700.
So a mere $5400 in repairs SO FAR in 2009 to keep this wreck on the road. But I love this truck. Right?
#14
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bakdoor, sorry about your luck, but man, I wanna be your mechanic!
Is that the most reasonable repairs you can find?
Wish you were closer til Illinois, it would be worth the drive here to get your stuff worked on.
Is that the most reasonable repairs you can find?
Wish you were closer til Illinois, it would be worth the drive here to get your stuff worked on.
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Thanks for all the ideas. Here's the problem: I don't want to work on the truck. Could I do it? Probably (I like working on my Jeep, too, but that's fun.) But I have a full-time (actually more than full-time) job, and when I come home from that, the last thing I want to do is give myself another job to do (and fixing this truck is getting to be a full-time job.) So I have to pay someone to do it, and one of my best friends is a parts manager at a Dodge dealer. He gives me the parts pretty much at cost, it's the labor that kills ya. The brake lines were not stainless but I had them ALL done. As in, every hard line in the truck. That had to take a bunch of time that I just don't want to waste working on my truck. It just sucks that this particular truck needs so much work all at once.
On another note: are the in-tank pumps that bad? It seems that having the pump inside the tank, surrounded by the fuel (like my Jeep's FP is) is a better idea than using a pusher pump as a puller (as the stock set-up is.) From what I've heard, Cummins wasn't real thrilled about the way Dodge INSISTED on using the stock LP set-up. Cummins wanted to do the in-tank thing from the get-go, but Dodge wanted an entire unit, delivered on a pallet, ready to be installed easily with few hoses, wires and the trans attachment , and not have to deal with installing a LP in the tanks. So that's the reason we have these crappy LPs as stock equipment instead of the in-tank ones that Cummins recommended in the first place: convenience of installation at the factory.
On another note: are the in-tank pumps that bad? It seems that having the pump inside the tank, surrounded by the fuel (like my Jeep's FP is) is a better idea than using a pusher pump as a puller (as the stock set-up is.) From what I've heard, Cummins wasn't real thrilled about the way Dodge INSISTED on using the stock LP set-up. Cummins wanted to do the in-tank thing from the get-go, but Dodge wanted an entire unit, delivered on a pallet, ready to be installed easily with few hoses, wires and the trans attachment , and not have to deal with installing a LP in the tanks. So that's the reason we have these crappy LPs as stock equipment instead of the in-tank ones that Cummins recommended in the first place: convenience of installation at the factory.