Vandieman

Sorry if this is a repeat post, I used the search feature but couldn't come up with what I was looking for....

I am purchasing a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins HO w/ 6sp manual. It's got 122,000 miles on it. As soon as I get it home, what would you all recommend I do as preventive maintenance? This purchase is going to strap my cash so where would you put your money first?

Thanks,
Van

J Lent

A word of advice, get a fuel pressure gauge & make sure that you have good pressure. Most of us have learned the hard way that the VP44 injection pump needs fuel flow to keep it cool & lubricated. The pumps cost $1000 if it goes out. I would also make sure that the engine block isn't a 53 casting before your purchase. Go to search at the top of screen & type in 53 block....lots of info.

12 flapper

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

This link will tell you anything you wanna know about the 53 block.

Dangerous Dave

I have an '03 with a common rail engine and different pump but I have started and been quite pleased with a regimen of 16oz of Super Tech 2 stroke oil from Walmart and 4oz of Power Services Diesel Klean with each fill up.

Now that Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel Fuel has hit the mainstream I feel a LOT better for doing it!

blackdiesel

heh, if you dont need a 3/4 ton truck then dont get it. If your not towing or hauling excessive amounts then i would steer away from it. Anything that breaks on a diesel is expensive. lift pumps, 150+. vp44's, 1050+. clutches, 700+. Rebuilt front end, 300-1500+. Etc, Etc. Make sure ya need it before you get it IMO. Expcially if you dont have any "emergency" cash.

Just my opinion of course

Also, ill just throw this out there. But i can rebuild a small block chevy for what it would cost to have someone install ONE injection pump on a diesel. Just somethin to think about

65pacecar

I agree, if you really dont need it dont get it, and the cost are higher to maintain than a gasser but in the long run it is probably cheaper or close to the same. The LP replacement is similar to the cost of a Fuel Pump in a gas truck, but the aftermarket fix is quite a bit higher, but once fixed the replacment should last the life of the truck. THe IP issue is expensive and seems to be a 100k or so problem so shorter some MUCH longer, but to have a timing chain replaced by a garage on a gasser will also run in the 600-1k price range and that will be the same time period mileage wise. Unless planning a lot of bombing it seems the only major difference in expense would be the front end issues, but again if the Diesel can get 150k or so out of the front end (optimistic from what I have been reading) then most front ends on most vehicles will have to be replaced, especially on a gas truck that sees a lot of work, but the components are higher. Many options to weigh.

scottsjeeprolet

get it home and change the oil & Fuel filter.
change the trans & filter, transfer case & diff fuilds as well.
Get a gauge and check the FP as well. Might want to do that before taking it home, borrow a scanner or do the 3 key trick to check for codes before taking it as well. If it is from a dealer you could get them to fix any problems.
Check the track bar, ball joints and wheel bearings. these should have been checked when it was inspected or they will have to be good to pass. Try to buy it inspected, saves you some money.
check the Air filter and swiss cheese the air box.

Vandieman

First off, sorry for the long absence. I appreciate all of your suggestions. My job keeps me on the road quite a bit, moving from mine site to mine site so I don't always have a lot of time on here.

The block is a 55 cast, so good news there. I've done about everything except for change the fuel filter element and install either a new lift pump or fuel pressure guage. Just a few questions there....

Are all fuel filter element brands created equal? Do they all seperate water also?

Where is the lift pump, and are their any brands you'd recommend for a good price? Are auxilliary pumps something to think about in leiu of a new lift pump?

What's a good fuel pressure guage on a budget that doesn't require drilling and plumbing?

One last thing. The air conditioner doesn't work. I've heard that they were notorious for having the condenser element start leaking in the cab. I've thought about running UV leak detect through the system to check and make sure. If it is the condensor, can I get by with running some of those AC leak fix R-134a charges I've seen? I've heard a lot of good and bad about those things.

Thanks alot everyone!

Van

JonnyThrottle

the lift pump is located behind the coffe can looking thing (fuel filter) on the driver's side of the engine. its about the dimensions of a razor cell phone (a bit thicker of course). Depending on how much you want to spend, a decent one will run you about $200-250 a nice one will run you about $400ish and a great set up will be $500-600ish. I run a BD lift pump (about $230) and love it, odds are, with your miles, replace it now. Mine was failing at about 90,000 miles and I didnt know it. I replaced it right before adding chips and MAN there was, difference even stock.

EDIT** if you replace the LP, you don't need to worry about the fuel pressure gauge AS much. BUT!! gauges should be on your top 3 things to buy for your truck. They aren't NEEDED, but are up there on the SHOULD (hint hint) get list. As far as a brand or installing, let the guys on here guide you, mine came with an engine mod kit)

scottsjeeprolet

#1 is the LP (lift pump)
Fuel System Components - 24-valve Cummins Turbo Diesel engine.

1. Fuel Transfer (Lift) Pump
2. Fuel Return Line (to Fuel Tank)
3. Fuel Supply Line (Low Pressure, to Engine)
4. Fuel Heater
5. Water-in-Fuel (WIF) Sensor
6. Fuel FilterlWater Separator
7. IA T Sensor
8. Map (Boost) Sensor
9. Fuel Drain Manifold
10. CKP Sensor
11. CMP Sensor
12. Overflow Valve
13. Drain Valve
14. Fuel Pressure Test Potts
15. ECM
16. ECT Sensor
17. Fuel Injection Pump
18. Throttle Lever Bell Crank and Apps
19, High-Pressure Fuel Lines
20. Fuel Injectors
21. Fuel Heater Temperature Sensor (Thermostat)
22. Oil Pressure Sensor
23. Fuel Injector Connector
24. Drain Tube
25. Intake Manifold Air Heater/Elements
here is the link to the diagram. Engine components

PaulDaisy

Welcome to the club!
To people saying to stay away from a diesel if you don't need it, I would say - if you want it and can at all afford it, buy it! The feeling of power you will get is second to none. And yes, it will require maintenance - but so will any other truck.
First thing to do BEFORE you buy is to drive it for a few miles and stop by Autozone to scan the codes (for free). If you see 0216, immediately negotiate another $1,000 off the final price - this is what the new injection pump will cost. Driving around will ensure that the code comes back if it had been cleared prior to sale.
Fuel pressure gauge is considered a good preventative measure to make sure that the injection pump gets enough fuel not to be starved, which is thought to be one of key reasons for its failures.
A budget mechanical gauge will cost you $10, plus another $10-15 for plumbing associated with it. You will need to either buy or make a tapped banjo bolt that will go in the bottom of the fuel filter canister. I personally drilled and tapped the one we took out (I did this on friend's truck). Drill the head with 21/64" bit, then tap for 1/8" NPT. Bottoming tap is needed, or make one by shortening a standard tap (on mine, I have 9/16" of the threaded part of tap left). Alternatively, you can buy one for $7 from Geno's garage, plus shipping. While you are at Geno's, order a service kit with two Fleetguard Stratapore oil filters and one fuel filter. Might as well buy extra fuel filters and save on shipping.
BTW, the cheap gauges (usually marked "water") can be had from www.surpluscenter.com. They are made by Autometer, the same brand making $70+ gauges you can buy from performance shops, and work great, you can see one in my signature.
So, buy it and enjoy it!
-P

Vandieman

Thanks everyone for the help. I found the lift pump location, it is exactly where the diagram posted above shows, but it is no where near as big, about 3W x3L x 2 thick and I couldn't see any electrical connections going to it. Sounds most similar to a motorola razor phone just thicker like you said JohnnyThrottle. Its got the same bolt pattern up top as replacement pumps do and similar plumbing, but I expected something bigger that looks like what's in the diagram. Is this something else other than an actual lift pump, and it really has one in the tank?

Tocapet

OH thanks for that, Blackdiesel. I guess we can all go back to driving Yugos and Vegas.

scottsjeeprolet

Sounds like you have the intank pump. that block you see is what the steel-r-ship puts in place of the LP.

PaulDaisy

+1. This also most likely means that VP44 was replaced at the same time.
-P