at just over 175000 it's time to replace the OE clutch. I've got a Southbend dual disk on the way and was wondering what others think should be done while the tranny is out.

It is 01 3500 4wd, tow several times a week no other work has been donw that I know of.

thanks

 

Depends on how much you want to spend, really. At a bare minumum I would throw a rear main seal at the engine. Maybe pull the tranny down to inspect the bearings and syncros too. If you haven't had 5th gear updated, it'd be easy to do now as well. Check the crankshaft for runout. If it's excessive, throw some main bearings at it. I did mains and rear main when my sbc dd went in and I'm glad I did. Wish I woulda put syncros in the tranny...

 

yes it all depends on cash. also depending on mileage you may want a complete rebuild. how hard are you running it?

 

not running it too hard, 4 times a year hauling hay, about 12,000 lbs for a day or two, twice a week pulling a cargo trailer that weighs about 4k

usually run the comp on 4x5 but not stomping on it regularly.

shifting was fine before clutch started acting up

cash will be tight after the clutch/pressure plate but hate to leave things that would be easier to do now than to have to pull it out again

 

as stated as a bare minimum put a rear main seal in it. change your trans fluid to see how it looks if its dirty with lots of metal id go for a rebuild. i would update the hydraulics and if a pilot bearing and throw out bearing dont come in the kit replace that too. inspect the shift fork for wear as well

 

sbc should provide t/o bearing and fork. DD clutch should come with new flywheel and pilot already installed. Definitely check crank runout. My flywheel was hitting the tranny adapter on the block because the crank walked so far....

 

So I put in the new SBC dual disk. When I took out the clutch etc, the throwout bearing was dry and so loose the ball bearings almost fell out, the needles in the pilot bearing did fall out and the clutch disk had seperated.

Put in a new main seal, it was set in with locktite so I had to remove the retainer which tore the oil pan gasket, so new pan gasket. Crank endplay was tight. The tranny fliud was clear but with a brownish tint so changed that as well as transfer case oil. New rear seal on tranfer case and all new u-joints and carrier bearing for the drive shafts.

I'm now trying to decide if the slow shifting is normal and will wear in or if I need new hydralics. The clutch engages just off the floor and is solid but shifting is SLOW waiting for it to drop into gear seems to take forever. There is no grinding and all gears shift basically the same. Shifting before was smooth and quick (for a truck anyway)

 

Welcome to the world of Double Disks. Yes the shifting is slower due to clutch intertia being greater. Don't force it as you will quckly wear out the syncros. You will learn to shift all over again as your shift points become more critical then it won't be as bad.

 

I would look at other clutches. 70k and the SBC throw out brearing was shot and so was the pilot berring. And it now appears the whole clutch maybe junk. It hasn't been abused or sled pulled with.

 

I've about decided that I need the master/slave. It will shift fine with engine off. Once I start it, even if I have not let out the clutch from starting it I can not shift it easily. Either something is dragging which doesn't make sense, it went together so easily, or the hyd are not working as they should.

off to the DTR store for the hyd....

I'll update after the install

Roy

 

Roy, did you get the 3250DD or the 3600DD?

 

I got the 3250DD