I installed the Vulcan lift pump relocation kit and I am pleased. I replaced the line from the frame mounted lift pump to the filter but left in place the factory line from the filter to the injection pump. I installed a new lift pump also. Previously a new lift pump would indicate 15 lbs at idle and drop to 8-9 at WOT. Now the WOT pressure remains above 10 lbs. I am running a stock HO engine.

A couple of points for others doing this. I removed the hose clamp on the line at the filter, between the filter and lift pump, and used my air compressor to blow the fuel in the line back into the fuel tank (remove tank cap). I could not figure out how to disconnect the quick coupling of the line from the tank to the lift pump at the lift pump so I just removed the screw holding the line support to the lift pump bracket. I was able to remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the bracket with a small combination wrench from the top of the engine without removing the fuel filter canister or the starter. You have to leave the lift pump bracket on the engine as it covers a hole in the block.

I have a small tubing cutter but it was still a pain trying to pull the steel line away from the frame far enough to use the tubing cutter. I cut the line twice with the tubing cutter and still was not happy with the result. I finally cut it with a hack saw blade held with vise grips. I then used a cotton swab (Q-tip) to remove the cuttings from the line. If I were doing it again I would skip the tubing cutter and simply use the hack saw blade.

I bumped the starter three times but the pressure did not rise above 6-7 lbs on my guage. I started the engine but it was fuel starved and quit quickly. I thought "O crap" as I tried to start it again and it would not.

I bumped the starter again and the fuel pressure jumped to 15 lbs for 30 seconds. Much better. Maybe the lift pump was not priming because I had blown the lines clear of fuel with the air compressor. Maybe the injection pump sucked enough fuel itself to prime the lift pump before the injection pump became fuel starved. I don't know.

But I cranked her again and she started and I have been very happy with the kit. I probably will not bother with the hose replacement between the fuel filter and the injection pump. The fitting in the kit for this connection is nice because it has a port for a fuel guage, but I already have a fuel guage.

One last thing. I plan to buy a spare lift pump and I think I can change the lift pump in less than ten minutes with a screw driver and a couple of adjustable wrenches but there will be one minor problem that I figured out a solution for while in the shower.

The location of the lift pump now means that when I disconnect the line from the tank to the pump, fuel will probably siphon out of the tank on it's own. Also there will be some back flow of fuel from the hose from the lift pump to the engine. Not a pleasant thing to deal with on the side of the road.

So I plan to purchase a couple of cheap "Made in China" vise grips to keep with my spare lift pump. I will use them to gently pinch the rubber fuel hose on both sides of the lift pump to stop the fuel flow when I disconnect the lines from the lift pump.

Bobby

 

I'm curious why you decided to stop a the filter? Might as well finish her up and get those last two banjos out of there. Your gauge is reading post filter.

I share your thoughts on the tiny tubing cutter, I didn't realize I wasn't getting all the way (360*) around, so when I cut 7/8 or so of the hard line my shirt took on a quart of fuel while I flailed around under there to get it free and plugged up.

 

I'm curious why you decided to stop a the filter? Might as well finish her up and get those last two banjos out of there. Your gauge is reading post filter.

I share your thoughts on the tiny tubing cutter, I didn't realize I wasn't getting all the way (360*) around, so when I cut 7/8 or so of the hard line my shirt took on a quart of fuel while I flailed around under there to get it free and plugged up.

 

I relocated my stock pump using the bracket off the engine. Took about an hour and I used the stock banjo fittings and 3/8 ID low pressure hydraulic hose and the pressure and flow are great. Getting the LP under the tank and away from the engine will solve everything.

 

Don't forget, there is a check valve on the suction line coming from the tank, it is located inside the fuel basket. it is supposed to stop the line from loosing its' syphon. I would not try to push fuel back through it, for fear it would rupture.

Bob

 

[




I plan to purchase a couple of cheap "Made in China" vise grips to keep with my spare lift pump. I will use them to gently pinch the rubber fuel hose on both sides of the lift pump to stop the fuel flow when I disconnect the lines from the lift pump.

Bobby[/QUOTE]

I'm happy with my re-locate 18 months ago and enjoying good fuel pressure.
I have to lengthen the rubber line going to my lift pump an inch so I can use the el-cheapo vise grips after the weather warms some.

 

Looks like my lift pump went bad. The dealer only has the update kit moving the pump to the tank. Where are you guys buying the original style pump? I need the truck run today and can't wait for mail order. I can upgrade later.
Thanks
Jeff
'02 3500

 

OK, so now I'm responding to my own post. I'm sure this has been said a million times here but I found an original style after-market pump at Car Quest for $180. The dealer now only sells the in-tank update kit with a completely different pump for $400. This kit sounds like a pain to install if I have to drop a full fuel tank. The Vulcan re-lo kit is $100 but am I going to be able to get original style pumps in the future? I guess I'm going to throw a aftermarket same style pump at it today to get it running and decide what to do later.
Jeff

 

I got a quote from NAPA on the Carter pump(suppose to be OEM?), about $190, but they said LIFETIME Warranty. Give them a call, see if you get the same story.
Mine is still uner warranty, but I guess I do not want the factory replacement vs the Vulcan/Carter, as it sould be easy to replace in the future and LIFETIME is worthwhile.
That said, when I get my mad money, I guess I will get the gauges, JAC brake and above.
I don't know why they put the pump in the tank on the Gen 3's, sounds ignorant. But then, thet don't have to live with it!