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Leaking Front Axle Seals

Old Mar 2, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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From: Connecticut
Leaking Front Axle Seals

I noticed about a month ago I started leaking fluid out of the front axle. After reading a few threads on this I only have myself to blame I replaced the hub bearings last summer and while I was at it I deceided to also freshen the area since it was covered in rust scale...sand blasted...repainted...new shocks...brakes...new brake lines...looks real good...but...

I tried moving the axles as little as possible when changing out the bearingsand did pretty good but dumbass me forgot to blow out the tubes real good afterwards which I am sure is what ate the seals. I have probably about on 5000 miles since doing the job and after discovering the leak, I have only put on 50 miles and parked it.

I'm really glab that I coated everything with anti-seize when replacing the hub bearings which should make this a little easier. I see on some threads, people are using special tools for replacing the seals, is it really needed or are there other ways to replace them? Since I am going to take this all apart again, I'm already planning on replacing the u-joints. Is there anything else I should do or look at while I have it ripped apart?

The part that really stinks is that I'm currently building a garage and the lift won't be in for another 3-4 months and I HATE working on jack stands. For some reason I have just never trusted them completely. How much damage would I cause just driving it occassionally with this leak until then?

Last edited by GizmoJoe; Mar 2, 2010 at 07:18 PM. Reason: Additional Information
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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as long as you keep your front diff full its just going to make a mess. as far as the special tools that i can't help you. i do know the seals come in from the inside and pretty sure you gotta pull the diff apart to put them in but dont quote me on that.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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From: Cape Breton,N.S / Ft Mac AB
Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you could run with no oil in an 01 because of the CAD as long as you keep in 2WD .As your ring and pinion are not turning.Although one side of you spiders may turn when I think of it now . On an 02.5 and up you could not do this as it has no CAD system.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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I ran mine for a yr or more leaking, just keep an eye on the oil level. double check your ball joints for up/down play. too excessive cause the seals to leak as the axel shaft presses against the seal lips, I had 120thou(50thou allowable) play on one side seal stopped leaking after changing ball joints, may not be your case but easy to check for
to check jack up truck via diff. (support with jack stand) insert a prybar between the axel (u-joint) and lower ball joint and lift up, and down, any excessive play will be easily seen, (this works on 00-02, on 99.5 to 00 you have to do the same procedure on the upper ball joint)
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 06:48 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I think you could run with no oil in an 01 because of the CAD as long as you keep in 2WD
Wrong. With the cad you need the oil level high as the spiders are revolving in the carrier. If it was non-cad it could be lower as the ring gear is turning and tossing the oil all over.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Thanks for the info but I am still confused on whether to drive it or not. It hasn't leaked that much fluid yet. I would say 2-3 ounces lost is about it so far. I haven't dug in to check the fluid.

This all started becuse I was lazy and took it to a garage to change the ball joints. I could tell where the beat on the hub with a sledge and hammered in a pry bar to remove them when they did it which I am sure was the beginning to the end of my hubs...which got me into this whole project in the first place

Nobody mentioned yet if you need a special tool to remove the seal or not.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 09:58 PM
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mine leaked for a yr, and I never added any fluid, when I finally topped it off after fixing the leak it took 1/2 quart. mine would leave drips on the ground after sitting all night

unless the oil is running out faster than you can pour it in, you will be fine, if worried top it off (3/4 below the fill plug NOT level with fill plug!) and check the level ocassionally
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by GizmoJoe
Nobody mentioned yet if you need a special tool to remove the seal or not.
No, you do not, not for removal, just knock it out of there.
For the seal install, you'll need to remove the differential from the housing. On the driver-side install, no special tool needed, just tap it in evenly(although if you have a seal driving tool, use it).
The passenger-side seal is actually on the outer end of the CAD housing. It's easily driven out.....drive it inward, into the CAD housing. For the install, there is a special tool, if you have one, great, if not it's not a problem. You can use a piece of all-thread(or a really long bolt), nuts, and washers(diameter close to that of the seal). This will draw the seal evenly into place in the axle tube.
With all of that said.......often the seals, due to age, distort from the pressure of the axleshaft when removing the bearings for service. If they have not been torn(quite possible if the tech wasn't careful), they will usually go back into shape after some time(mine quit leaking after about a month). Although it will make a bit of a mess for a while, it won't hurt anything so long as you keep the diff filled with oil.
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