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Installing fuel pressure guage...

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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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mountainman's Avatar
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From: Denver, CO
Installing fuel pressure guage...

Fellas -

I'm sure this has been discussed many times here so just point me to the right link if you can.

I'd like to consider installing a fuel pressure guage on my VP44 pump - is it a DIY kind of job (for mechanically inclined) and what are some of the risks. Also, I'm assuming that it's the 'after' LP pressure that's especially important to know and not so much the 'before' LP... but I could be wrong...

Thanks
James

Last edited by mountainman; Jul 23, 2009 at 10:19 AM. Reason: correction
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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You want to install the gauge at the vp44.

I have an electrical gauge installed. Do a search and you'll find plenty of discussions on mechanical vs. electrical gauges.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mountainman
Fellas -

I'm sure this has been discussed many times here so just point me to the right link if you can.

I'd like to consider installing a fuel pressure guage between my VP44 and the Bosh inj. pump - is it a DIY kind of job (for mechanically inclined) and what are some of the risks. Also, I'm assuming that it's the 'after' LP pressure that's especailly important to know and not so much the 'before' LP... but I could be wrong...

Thanks
James
Hey Mountainman, this is Mountain Grown, we must be neighbors
I'm installing a fuel gauge right now. Im having issues with it leaking (on the gauge side of the isolator), but I cant seem to find the leak. I've been reading a lot of folks out there say forget using the isolator as they are problematic. Installing the darn things are not the problem, it's the peace of mind factor. Assuming your doing a mechanical gauge, the isolator is esentially a relay which send pressure to the gauge in the cab, but the tube from the isolator is filled with antifreeze and not fuel. You would definitely not want gasoline going to the cab, but diesel or even bio are less of a hazard. some say eliminate the isolator, but install a needle valve to dampen the pulses from the injector pump. If I can't solve my leak problem, then I'm going to go the route of ditching the isolator.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
The isolator has a bleed screw that has an Allen head. Under the allen screw is a ball bearing. If you removed the screw to bleed the system you may have lost the ball bearing. Tightening up the allen screw partially seals it but it will weep and allow air into the system.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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From: Santa Cruz
Originally Posted by Busboy
The isolator has a bleed screw that has an Allen head. Under the allen screw is a ball bearing. If you removed the screw to bleed the system you may have lost the ball bearing. Tightening up the allen screw partially seals it but it will weep and allow air into the system.
the ball bearing is in there, but that is on the fuel side. BTW should that allen screw have some thread compound on it?
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Mountain Grown
the ball bearing is in there, but that is on the fuel side. BTW should that allen screw have some thread compound on it?
As the ball bearing sits in an seat it seals its self so I would say the Allen screw doesn't need sealing. Mine isn't and been that way for many years.
So it's the glycol that you are loosing? It can only be the isolator, the gauge or the fittings. I know not much help. You could cut the ends off the tube and re-do them.
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Old Jul 22, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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From: Santa Cruz
I'm checking all the fittings and re bleeding....see how it goes this time.
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