After an 3 hour road trip, I stopped the truck and it would not start again. Started checking the start circuit found a broken wire terminal on the solenoid to the starter bolt. This loose terminal could have shorted to ground... anyway installed a new starter and positive cable on drivers side only to have the truck not start. I then found the #2 Ignition fuse link open....replaced it and when the relay located in a plastic case next to the PDC and connected to the anti-brake is activated during the "wait to start" period a new 30A fuse link will be needed. I have a service manual and have been going step by step and using a test light to isolate the short circuit. I have found that by removing the electric window CB, the AC blower fuse and this module that the service manual called the "PCM" my short circuit is removed and the test light does not light up on ignition. I went to the dealer today to pick up this "PCM" only to find that their pard did not look like my part and they stated that my "PCM" could be the anti brake controller. I am back to square on with the start circuit and will attack it again tomorrow. I read another thread post that stated he removed his short by changing the electric window motor. I am really struggling with this electrical short!

 

I would tend to think you might have a problem with wiring at the starter. It seems you did not have the blowing fuses till after you replaced the starter???

 

I removed the plug on the wire to the starter solenioid, still have the short circuit to ground... been too cold past few days but am working on it tomorrow

 

Borrowed a friends code reader...installed all the items that had been diagnosed as the shorts in the ignition circuit and had been removed (the electric window CB and the blower fuse) turned the ignition switch on still without the 30A fuse #2 Ignition circuit installed to see if the code reader would identify the short circuits and give me a code... this did not work? NO Codes?

 

What does this mean? You hooked up the windows, CB and blower and then what happened? How did you then know there was still a short in the circuit?

If it blew a fuse again, you need to disconnect the above items and put a good fuse back in it and connect the items one at a time till one of them shows that it's bad.

 

Codes will only be set by the computer controlled items, windows, CB and blower are not controlled by a computer. They would be normal fuses. As was mentioned, you have to disconnect all suspect items and then reconnect one at a time while watching the meter for a draw. As soon as you see the draw you can concentrate on that circuit. See what else is on that circuit and disconnect things one at a time until the short goes away. Your sig says you are in Palm Bay Fla? Too cold??????
I had to replace my APPS yesterday and it was a balmy 18 degrees, it was 5 this morning. Sorry, just bustin' on you, I envy your location.

Rick

 

It's been cold here in Florida and on the concrete floor... ain't got a lift.... cold floor and old bones not a good mix

Here's my situtation a little clearer...
Fuse Link#2 blows open upon turning the key to the start positon. with the fuse link out, the wait to start light comes on, the guages all work and the relays are clicking...

with the key turned to the "wait to start" positon... the 30A fuse link removed and using a test lamp with the clamp on the positive terminal, the point of the test lamp on the "load" side of the fuse link holder.... the lamp is lit and gets brighter when the relays kicks in. Is this lit lamp a short circuit or am I reading through something?

 

Any time the key is on you will be reading through several things. If you get a reading on a powered circuit with the key off then you have a problem. If it is only blowing the fuse when you turn the key to start then it has to be in the starter circuit. Could be a bad starter, worn through wire somewhere. I am just coming over to Dodge but I have been a master mechanic for 40 plus years so the symptoms are the same between all brands. A wiring diagram would be very helpful here. I have found that I can download a 99 manual but that is all I have found. Being retired I certainly can not afford to buy a bunch of manuals.

Rick

 

Again, wiring going to the starter or the new starter is bad.

 

Well, I want to thank all of the contributors in fixing of my problem....... I decided to take another look at the schematic and I went back to basics! I jumped the start solenoid...I unplugged the connector going to the start relay and using jumper cables I clamped the solenoid stud to the jumper cable and touched it to the hot terminal.... the starter bumped but did not engage... i tried it again and got the starter to engage....from this simple test I presume that the brand new rebuilt starter was bound up!.....

 

I hate that. Was it a rebuilt? Was it from a well known parts store or one like Checker/Orielly's?

 

It was rebuilt...sticker on it says it was remanufactured in the US... Came from a local non national parts hours... I am really ****** at myself to misdirecting my troubleshooting skills... should have used the KISS method....keep it simple stupid!

 

Work on the bigger sh_ t every day and get stumped all the time.

Very glad you got it resolved!