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I got my Lift Pump.. NOw What?

Old Sep 6, 2007 | 08:48 PM
  #1  
billaweed's Avatar
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I got my Lift Pump.. NOw What?

Installing a new lift pump looks pretty easy, but just to make sure I dont F#@& the new one up, what are the necessary steps in taking the old one out and putting the new one on?

Will I have to bleed the lines somehow?

will I have to prime the new pump?

Is it just simply "take old one off" put "New one on"?

I just dont want screw it up though its looks very easy to do.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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Pretty much take the old one off and put the new one on. I prefer to remove the FF housing just for more room, I think it's 2 bolts to remove and tons more room.

Once the new pump is installed you will need to prime the IP again, not the LP so bump the starter (I do it 3 times, others fill it with fuel and only bump it once) to fill the filter and then start cranking at first 15 seconds at a time and after 3 tries, mine always takes 5 I don't know why, I start cranking for up to 30 seconds and it always fires up on the 2nd try with 30 seconds of cranking.

Same process for a filter change.

Good luck.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 09:06 PM
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My truck always starts right up after a filter change.

do I need to kink an hoses? I dont diesel all over the place..

thanks man

brandon
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 09:15 PM
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Nope, just keep the lines above the tank and your fine.

It's not bad give or take 45 minutes on my first and down to about 20 on my second but I finally got smart and put on a walbro for my 3rd. Too much $$ on stock replacements for me. Still smiling with the walbro.
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 09:17 PM
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how much is a walbro? and how many stock pumps have you gon througH?
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Old Sep 6, 2007 | 09:26 PM
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~$420 from http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...?pf_id=3929852 complete kit vs. the 2 LP's I purchased locally in 2 years for $185 ea.

You can get the walbro cheaper and build your own kit for bypassing back into the tank and pressure regulators etc but I like the tried and true so saving $75 shopping several different sites wasn't my thing.
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Old Sep 7, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 2500Ram
Pretty much take the old one off and put the new one on. I prefer to remove the FF housing just for more room, I think it's 2 bolts to remove and tons more room.

I second this method. If you remove the fuel filter housing you will have a lot more access to the pump. Two bolt on top hold the housing to the engine, however there are a few more item to remove before you pull it out. There are 2 banjo bolts (fuel fittings), one on the bottom and one on the rearward side. Also there are 2 electical connections, one for the WIF (water in fuel) sensor, and the other for the fuel heater. Here are some pictures to help you out.

Lift pump on engine : This shot is with the fuel filter housing removed. I used a catch bottle to collect residual fuel in the VP-44 and lines.


Fuel filter housing. This just highlights the main item on you FF housing. The inlet is noted in red on the right side.



Fuel filter housing 2 : Shown here are the electrical connections and the outlet. I forgot to highlight the outlet when I edited this picture. The outlet is the threaded hole on the bottom.
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