Ohio_Farmer

Yesturday I noticed a familiar sound again, squeak, squeak. Once again the u-joints have gone bad in the driveshaft. This is the 3rd time. I have tried the greasable ones and the sealed ones and they both go bad. The sealed ones do have a lifetime warranty though. I can't figure out why I am going through them. In 5 years I have replaced them 3 times! Anyone have any advise as to what the problem could be?

Purplezr2

200k and the balljoints and u joints were the orginals as far as I could tell I just replaced them as both u joint failed with in about 100 miles of each other(did one side then the other side started making noise). I assume your are talking about the front axle, that said I have killed one rear Dshaft in the rear position.

Ohio_Farmer

Sorry, I was talking about the drive shaft u-joints. I edited the post

gorms

I've only had good luck with either Precision (from Napa) or the stock spicers. Anything else I try is lucky to make it 20k miles. Stock rear driveshaft ujoints on all but one, over 200k on them. Heavy loads eat them up quicker.

If you're eating up quality joints, might want to check for balance on the driveshaft or the carrier bearing if it's a 2 piece shaft.

nickg

I've eaten thru more precision brand U-joints than I ever should have...
they have a tiny plastic nossel on the plastic thrust plate, which plugs up wether you grease it every day or not, some cups will get grease some will not

looks like this, (this joint was approx8months old, and greased every month)



this is what happens, as the grease gets hot and the nossel plugs up



I have foumd best results with Spicer non greaseable joints, just remember when your installing the cups NOT to mix them up as they MUST go back on the right cross piece, because there is a measured amont of grease in each cup.

also if your installing the joint improperly (too tight) it will cause the joint to fail pre-maturely.
after assy the joint should rotate freely thru its range with no binding, and smoothly.

here is a shot of the bad joint and I drilled the plastic nossel out, I did this on a new joint to a friends truck, he uses his for courior work (on the road daily) about a yr or so ago and as far as I know it has not failed "yet" (fingers crossed)

dakar

I have the same issue...the last U-joint on the drivesahft wears out every 55-60K. No matter what manufacturer, brand, or where purchased.. each one lasts the same. I thought I had a driveshaft issue but the mid-ship bearing never wears and many others have the same issue... Just glad it's only a 30 minute job to replace.

torquefan

X2 on the non- greasable Spicer Life joint. I don't think there's any others that can compare to it. Greasable joints just seem to be a waste of time, as the seals never seal well enough to keep moisture out.

johnh

my driveline u joints are still OEM AT 250,000 MILES.......I don't know what's wrong with yours ......... but i would stick with the lifetime warranty ones

KATOOM

After years of doing it the wrong way.....I now only use "non-greaseable" Spicer and I only have a reputable driveline shop install them. Its sooooo much easier than beating parts on my workbench, there's no chance I might accidentally hurt one of the yokes or joints, and its not that much money for the shops labor if I remove the shaft. And as already mentioned, if you're going through u-joints then you need to check shaft balance, shaft truing, yoke timing, or possibly you're harming the u-joints or yokes during the R & R.

Ohio_Farmer

Thanks for all the info! I appreciate it! Does NAPA sell Spicer u-joints? I'll have to get a few of those. Thanks.

KATOOM

Any good driveline shop should have Spicer and given the amount of trouble you've been having, I wouldn't hesitate to have your driveshaft looked at.