Does anyone have any eperience / tips on rebuilding a 2000 24-valve ISB engine?
Mine has an obscene amount of blow-by and will loose almost 6qts of oil in 200 mile trip! The truck only has 77k miles on it but I did not buy it new so I don't know what was done to it. I do know that someone had some sort of chip in it (the turbo waste gate line still had a restrictor in it) and probably no EGT pyrometer (no sign of EGT previously intalled). I did not think that this engine could get worn this fast. I rebuilt numerous other engines in the past but none of these.
Could anyone tell me what am I LIKELY to see BEFORE I tear into it? Is there a chance just for a re-ring job or am I likely to have much more work cut out for myself? Can the engine have some 'invisible' heat damage? What's a good (and cheap) place to get the parts? Any sugestions for upgrades while the thing is appart? Any help will be appreciated.

 

Is there any unusual noises while running? it sounds like one of the piston cooling nozzles is plugged and it scored the cylinder walls in that cylinder. a piston could also have a hole in it from either a bad injector or too high EGT's

 

also the turbo can cause high blow-by. I would check that first .

 

tough break man.

 

When I first got my 24v it had exsive blow back. I went after the head gasket-tore the head off and found about 20 cracks on the exhast v that someone had tried to repair. Got a recon head from Cummins and threw it back together, most all that was ever wrong with this truck was heat related-so get the gauges put in

 

I don't get any engine noises. Sometimes I get a sigle pop (backfire) noise when the engine is suddenly reved in netral. I was told that might be just the result of a high flow exhaust system. I also get a little bit of blue (oil) smoke on acceleration. Engine seems to run well and on all cylinders although it shakes for first 20 seconds or so when started cold (60 deg F). I am getting ~14 mpg which is what many other people get with 4.10 gears and stock engine. I was still hoping that the rings are worn or got too hot and collapsed.

 

Why are you not looking into the possibility of a warranty repair? Am I missing something?

 

What would be the cause of that? Excessive boost pressure? Too much back pressure? What exactly would you check for?
Thanks in advance.

 

You have a couple of things to check before tearing into the engine. First was already mentioned, the turbo. The next is the vacuum pump. Pull the vacuum pump/power steering pump loose from the engine, and block the hole with a plate. You can get the plate from Cummins, bet the service manager will lend you one. The vacuum pump can cause the blowby. The turbo sounds more likely for dribbling oil.

Then you need to pull the head and check the gasket and head before tearing the engine out. If it is not making any noises it probably will not be rings. It may be a burned piston though.

 

The truck was originally purchased in 1999, more than five years ago. I thought the warranty was 5 y/100kmi from the day of purchase, not five the model years.

 

I would still get in touch with DC about the warranty. Cummins has stretched beyond the stated warranty period for me on our non Dodge ISB's a couple times, but it was nothing as serious as 6 quart oil loss in 200 miles. Good Luck.

 

Well to ans. your 1st question,B.T.D.T....so what do you want to know?? ez? about the same as any other 6 (just heavy)
1- buy a new or reco head
2- to save the truma there is no "grading" of pistons once you get there (you will know what I mean once you are there.....(on the oversize)
3- I highly recomend you put in steel piston coolers rather then the plastic crap!
4-do not take your parts to just any machine shop,,but one that dose mostly diesel and has ballance equipment,....the coast is not much more and everything will be so much better.!!
3 dont for get to have the rods resized, and use anew oil pump.......
4-The block needs to be linebored to the centerline of cylders and vice/versa as most are off a bit,,if the shop dose not know about this is, stop wasting your time and go to where they know whats up.
an other clue is if they do not know how to test for "rockwell" go elsewhere.
These are simple enough to bolt togather...but the parts have to be right.

 

Oh and the other thing you have the crank counter at the rear of the eng. which is prone to cumming loose and sets up a vibration that breaks your piston cooling jets off......make sure it is tight ( 3pc gear thingy)
Thats why they moved it to the front on newer CTD.......B.T.D.T.

 

Ok, so I pulled out the engine today and tore it down. First I found a resistor in the MAP wiring harness to crudely fool the computer and causing heat damage to my engine. I swear, the f$%&ing a*$&%^ that did that does not deserve a nice truck. I would let him pedal a bicycle or ride a buss! When I took the head off I noticed slight burns around exhaust valves on cylinder #1 and about 1.5 in black band on top the same cylinder. Sure enough, the top compression ring was busted in at least 20 pieces. I also found broken top compression rings in two more cyliders and the top piston ring grove on most pistons was visibly spread out. When I checked the piston cooling nozzles, #1 was broken off at the base, another one was warped spraying oil at the crankshaft instead and all nozzles seemed to have been installed at different height or perhaps they were working their way out of the block! Definitely a weak, weak spot of this otherwise excellent engine. Unfortunately, the pistons have to come out of the engine to replace the nozzles with metal ones so remember to get rid of the plastic junk when rebuilding.